Today was the day i was going to get some of this done but my girlfriend has to go to urgent care, she has been up since 4 in the morning dry heaving and puking. hmm could it of been the chinese last night? or her eggo is preggo
How to fiberglass Plywood Tank?
- Thread starter djlancer88
- Start date
djlancer88;1721009; said:
Oh oh!...a preggo eggo might just cut into the
]V[onsterFishKeeping budget.
that kinda spawning is big big money.
Good luck either way brother...
Excellent find...depending on how the shipping is, It looks great...rollers: 3" @ $6.00 and 6" @ $8.00?salty joe;1721980; said:
MINT!!...
and this is always helpful...
fiberglassSitedotcom said:
Zennzzo, any chance I can get you to tell me where I'm wrong and where I might be right?
salty joe;1719553; said:
OK...
sand the wood first to get a fuzzy feel to it...
I use 100grit on a palm sander...
Then do your first coat with just resin/hardner...
Poly or Epoxy, your call, same end results...
My choice "Poly", good enough for 10 million dollar boats, good enough for me...
No sanding nessasary between coats...
soak the mat or roving, put it on and roll it out...
Mat should be pulled apart, roving has to be cut... I'd go 3 plys of 10oz cloth, and make sure to carefully roll out the air...
Turn the tank so the surface you are working on is flat like a table, let gravity work for you...
you have a pretty good idea, just practice on some small scraps...think extreme paper machette...
sand the wood first to get a fuzzy feel to it...
I use 100grit on a palm sander...
Then do your first coat with just resin/hardner...
Poly or Epoxy, your call, same end results...
My choice "Poly", good enough for 10 million dollar boats, good enough for me...
No sanding nessasary between coats...
soak the mat or roving, put it on and roll it out...
Mat should be pulled apart, roving has to be cut... I'd go 3 plys of 10oz cloth, and make sure to carefully roll out the air...
Turn the tank so the surface you are working on is flat like a table, let gravity work for you...
you have a pretty good idea, just practice on some small scraps...think extreme paper machette...
One more question, lol. The 3 plys can all be applied at once? and rolled on at the same time after soaking? or one layer at a time?
also awesome find Salty joe!!!!!!
roller wise, say i roll my glass out, now theres poly resin all over it. Dipping it in acetone will clean this off with a little wipe of a cloth or is there some type of cleaning tool i need, ' )
also awesome find Salty joe!!!!!!
roller wise, say i roll my glass out, now theres poly resin all over it. Dipping it in acetone will clean this off with a little wipe of a cloth or is there some type of cleaning tool i need, ' )
Just read a post by rallysman. He bought a plywood tank that developed a crack in the bottom fiberglass. Did it get bounced around? Was cheap material used? Was it poorly done? Was the tank filled on an uneven surface? scary stuff.
It is common practice to set acrylic tanks on 1/2"-3/4" Styrofoam to distrbute the load. I plan on using Strofoam.
Zennzzo, you mentioned a 24 hour cure. What kind of ballpark pot life can be expected with a mix like that, say at 70-75 F? I assume that a 24 hour cure batch would not be as brittle as a hot batch. Is that right?
Could poly resin alone be used and have a longterm leakfree tank? Somewhere along the line I read that poly resin alone is not good enough-it must be coated with epoxy paint. Any truth to that?
You also mentioned letting gravity work for you. I'm all for that. Is it OK to put three coats of cloth and resin on a side, then flip the tank to do the next surface, or one coat on the entire tank, second coat on the entire tank, third coat. This thing is going to be heavy-don't want to move it any more than I have to.
Thanks for your help
It is common practice to set acrylic tanks on 1/2"-3/4" Styrofoam to distrbute the load. I plan on using Strofoam.
Zennzzo, you mentioned a 24 hour cure. What kind of ballpark pot life can be expected with a mix like that, say at 70-75 F? I assume that a 24 hour cure batch would not be as brittle as a hot batch. Is that right?
Could poly resin alone be used and have a longterm leakfree tank? Somewhere along the line I read that poly resin alone is not good enough-it must be coated with epoxy paint. Any truth to that?
You also mentioned letting gravity work for you. I'm all for that. Is it OK to put three coats of cloth and resin on a side, then flip the tank to do the next surface, or one coat on the entire tank, second coat on the entire tank, third coat. This thing is going to be heavy-don't want to move it any more than I have to.
Thanks for your help
No poly resin alone will not work for a leak free tank.You do have to coat the tank with a sealer (2 part epoxy(aquaticecosystmes), etc.) after the fiberglass is done.
For your first question id say there are to many different variables to as in how a leak could of occured....
iv heard of glass tanks breaking, acrylic, plywood, fiberglass. It happens. Something i think youll have to find out on your own, and i think if you do it the right way you should be fine, same goes for me.
For your first question id say there are to many different variables to as in how a leak could of occured....
iv heard of glass tanks breaking, acrylic, plywood, fiberglass. It happens. Something i think youll have to find out on your own, and i think if you do it the right way you should be fine, same goes for me.
Oh yeah, one more question. Does silicone stick to fiberglass? I want to glue some things to the inside of the tank after it is built.
