how to go from soft water to hard water?

Herrwibi

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I'm looking at making the switch to lake malawi cichlids, having a species only tank Saluoi.

I'm from scotland and we have soft water i believe, i've test my tap water and this is what i've got,

kH - 3
gH- 5
pH 7.2-7.3

For these type of cichlids i know they like a pH around 7.4-8.4.

I'm unsure of how to harden my water and if there is any formula to use. i've seen a few people saying to use baking soda for pH + kH and some epsom salts for gH.

obviously while i tinker around to get the water in a condition i want , there won't be any fish in there .

How do people go about changing there water chemistry and what is a better gH and pH+kH to aim for or is it better to leave the fish in the water conditioni have.

I'm going to make a trip to my local fish store and see how there water reflects mine.

Thanks.
 
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tlindsey

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I'm looking at making the switch to lake malawi cichlids, having a species only tank Saluoi.

I'm from scotland and we have soft water i believe, i've test my tap water and this is what i've got,

kH - 3
gH- 5
pH 7.2-7.3

For these type of cichlids i know they like a pH around 7.4-8.4.

I'm unsure of how to harden my water and if there is any formula to use. i've seen a few people saying to use baking soda for pH + kH and some epsom salts for gH.

obviously while i tinker around to get the water in a condition i want , there won't be any fish in there .

How do people go about changing there water chemistry and what is a better gH and pH+kH to aim for or is it better to leave the fish in the water conditioni have.

I'm going to make a trip to my local fish store and see how there water reflects mine.

Thanks.


Crushed Coral in a mesh bag will help raise the PH. Personally wouldn't bother with the Baking Soda or Epsom Salt. Also if the African Cichlid was tank raised in your area by a breeder it may be fine in the 7.4 PH.
 

Herrwibi

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I've heard crushed coral only raises pH by .2 or .3? I'm looking to go and visit my lfs to see what there parameters are or what they do to increase there water parameters.
 

tlindsey

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The Crushed Coral is also a safer method because it will maintain PH steadily. Chemicals will react instantly and can be dangerous if you don't have any experience using them. If you don't like the idea of Crushed Coral in the mesh bag. Well they also sell a Crush Coral substrate.
 

neutrino

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I've done baking soda for 20 yrs in my current residence, before that in Florida water was great for African cichlids without any help, before that I lowered pH (New England) for blackwater/SA tanks-- before that I don't remember what I did, lol.

At this place my pH is generally low to mid 6s and I've used baking soda for Malawi cichlid tanks when I had them, still use it along with some Epsom salt for my kapampa gibberosa tanks (Lake Tanganyika is higher in magnesium than the other major rift lakes). I also use a little baking soda to bring current SA tanks to slightly above neutral pH, doesn't take much.

Essentially I test/target the tanks as neutral in SA tanks, afterward this goes up a little as the new water acclimates-- i.e. water out of the tap can rise in pH due to releasing dissolved CO2. In my kapampa tanks I test/target mid 7s pH and then this goes up a bit also. Beyond this pH is very stable, which is what baking soda does. GH is moderate in these tanks, 12-16-ish, depending on which tanks get Epsom salt. Once I had this worked out, which was no big deal, the routine has been simple.

Works for me, I know I'm in control, but it's not the only way. If you can hit stable targets with coral (higher) or peat (lower) that's great too. There was a time I did various commercial buffers, etc. but dispensing with those have made no difference to my fish (or their longevity).
 
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RD.

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From a previous post of mine on this subject.......

.......... or one can do the same thing, and save a bundle of $$$$, by using crushed oyster shells sold at most stores that carry farm feed, typically sold as chicken grit. Just rinse well, and start small so as not to stress the fish with any sudden GH/pH changes.
This can be quite a bit less expensive than buying crushed coral, at least it is in these parts. Just replace as needed.
 

duanes

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Don't know if you are near the coast in Scotland, but here in Panama I use a lot of rain water for my cichlids, so I use shells from the beach in my sump to add buffering capacity, they also serve as biomedia (substrate for beneficial bacteria to colonize). So if you don't use a sumps, they could be placed in any filter and flow.,
80B72287-D914-469B-BC3A-CA79E48B6760_1_201_a.jpeg
Adding baking soda during water changes is fairly easy, and if you are consistent with dosages, shouldn't be a problem
 
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Herrwibi

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I've done baking soda for 20 yrs in my current residence, before that in Florida water was great for African cichlids without any help, before that I lowered pH (New England) for blackwater/SA tanks-- before that I don't remember what I did, lol.

At this place my pH is generally low to mid 6s and I've used baking soda for Malawi cichlid tanks when I had them, still use it along with some Epsom salt for my kapampa gibberosa tanks (Lake Tanganyika is higher in magnesium than the other major rift lakes). I also use a little baking soda to bring current SA tanks to slightly above neutral pH, doesn't take much.

Essentially I test/target the tanks as neutral in SA tanks, afterward this goes up a little as the new water acclimates-- i.e. water out of the tap can rise in pH due to releasing dissolved CO2. In my kapampa tanks I test/target mid 7s pH and then this goes up a bit also. Beyond this pH is very stable, which is what baking soda does. GH is moderate in these tanks, 12-16-ish, depending on which tanks get Epsom salt. Once I had this worked out, which was no big deal, the routine has been simple.

Works for me, I know I'm in control, but it's not the only way. If you can hit stable targets with coral (higher) or peat (lower) that's great too. There was a time I did various commercial buffers, etc. but dispensing with those have made no difference to my fish (or their longevity).
I understand what your saying, i know the relation between kH + pH with baking soda and epsom salt will raise the gH.

How do you keep your parameters steady with a water change? Do you pre mix the buckets so for example your sitting at 8 pH + 10gH in buckets and add each bucket or do you do your water change and add once everything is complete?

Also does baking soda and epsom salt stay steady and doesn't crash? I've tested my tap water 24 hours after leaving it sitting and it only changed by 0.1 pH.

i've been tempted by sechems buffer solutions, the malawi one but i know this is more expensive for the same chemical reaction.

From a previous post of mine on this subject.......


This can be quite a bit less expensive than buying crushed coral, at least it is in these parts. Just replace as needed.
So the crushed oyster shells will increase pH and kH?
 

Herrwibi

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Don't know if you are near the coast in Scotland, but here in Panama I use a lot of rain water for my cichlids, so I use shells from the beach in my sump to add buffering capacity, they also serve as biomedia (substrate for beneficial bacteria to colonize).
View attachment 1393710
Adding baking soda during water changes is fairly easy, and if you are consistent with dosages, shouldn't be a problem
I'm unsure on coral just because of the uncertainly , i would prefer the dosing method. My biggest problem is how i would do a water change and add the buffers.

Once i get the tank set up for a day or two and the pH/kH/gH is steady then i will add the fish. I can imagine starting a tank is easier its the water changes that i'm confused on how much to add.

i know i would need epsom salt and baking soda due to my water being so soft.
 

deeda

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Don't forget to cycle the tank or add a mature filter before adding fish. ?
 
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