I am learning to breed betta firsthand!

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I have a good friend in the local aquarium society and he is selling some of his old breeding tanks, so I will be getting some smaller tanks 10gal and 20 gal.
I also found out that a LFS has a 47?gal bowfront but the brace is broken for $10 which I will probably get and replace the brace so I can use it as a fish tank. This same LFS has already offered to buy all the offspring when they mature a bit, although I plan on keeping some for more breeding.
I have seen the small separaters that suctioncup to the inside of tanks, has anyone used these and are they suitable for separating the males?
P.S. I keep saying "I" but I should say "we" because my dad has helped so much in this project (purchasing necessary supplies, sharing my love of fish, wanting to breed fish, feeding them when Im not around, and planting baby dwarf tears individually with tweezers) the baby dwarf tears are in a 6 gal eclipse with 6 galaxy rasboras/celestial pearl danios and 1 small bristlenose that rip it all up, so props and big thanks to him.
 
Also nice betta in the avatar Ikhan Bettah.
 
I don't thinks bettas will explode in the airplane. I've shipped hundreds of bettas and half of them prioty. Goodluck with your bettas
 
The babies started swimming horizontally yesterday and I am waiting for the bbs to hatch. The male looked lonely in a tank by himself so I placed the female's container next to his and he is already starting another bubble nest in a small 2gal hex, I guarantee I wont breed them in the 2gal but I am glad to see that they will be ready again after I set up more tanks.
I am also pretty sure that we are getting the 42 (not 47) gal bowfront and my dad will be rebracing it because he can easily repair this because of his machinist skills.
I also have a question, when should the males be separated from females and when should all fish be separated into separate containers? The LFS that wants all my betta offspring offered to order the betta containers through their distributor so my dad and I can separate them.
 
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]At about day 3 the fry will absorb the last of the yolk sac and will now feel a lot lighter. The necessary swimming organs have also developed and the fry are able, for the first time, to straighten out their position and to swim in a horizontal position A few unfortunate will never qualify and will keep spiraling up and down, swimming out of control, unable to balance and control. Soon, they will die. The others will now start roaming around a bit. At first they stay under the nest under the vigilant eye of the male. He will bring them back if they wander too far. Soon, they swim away from the nest.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica] [/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica] [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]This is when you step in and put your big clumsy hands in the spawning tank for the purpose of removing the male. This is best done very gently, very carefully and with the help of a very small and soft net. Preferably a size three works great. First take a cup of water form the spawning tank, then gently net the male after luring him away from the nest. Careful not to net fry! Then place male in the cup and take him back to his freshly cleaned quarters. If you are a good hobbyist, you probably took the opportunity, while he was away from home, to clean his pad and prepare it for his return. Remember to acclimate him before releasing him back in his jar. It is strongly recomended after removing the male to feed them very small portions of microworms. Separate the infant Bettas AS SOON as aggressive behavior is observed, and they must be observed constantly! I would keep the breeding pair separate and wait at the least a week or two before trying to breed the pair again, the female is probably beat and exhausted.
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When we took the male out he was so lonely because he couldnt tend to his family so we put the female next to the male and he is happy again. We plan on waiting 2 weeks from spawn to try again if we have more tanks set up by then. Fortunately/Unfortunately ive been sick and havent been to school so ive been able to keep a close eye on the fry. Thanks for everyone's help I hope we have some luck with raising them.
 
If you want faster recover time and prep time for next spawn feed live foods it gets them in the mood faster
 
I was feeding them hikari betta food then I gave them frozen blood worms and that seemed to have the same effect as live food because their moods changed greatly just switching to the frozen blood worms.
 
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