xinchavoc;4796655; said:
Strips are inaccurate. You're going to want the liquid test kid. I have a master test kit from API and I find it to be the best. It tests pH, NitrAtes, NitrItes and Ammonia.
How much do you feed your fish and how often?
I need Help Fast..
- Thread starter xinchavoc
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Strips are inaccurate. You're going to want the liquid test kid. I have a master test kit from API and I find it to be the best. It tests pH, NitrAtes, NitrItes and Ammonia.
How much do you feed your fish and how often?
xinchavoc;4796644; said:
Fighting can start at any time with out notice. If chalanged one a fish backs down it can be persued relentlessly and killed the fact that they are or similar size means nothing, infact since they are of similar size there is no place for it to go the attacker can't go.
I would think if it was amonia burn it would not efect one fish so severly while not effecting any other fish in the tank at all. Assuming the tank is cycled properly and you do regular w/c's. Do a 50% WC in the main tank anyway can't hurt.
xinchavoc;4796816; said:
If you have a 10 gallon tank, I'd isolate it in that and just make sure the water is warm and add a couple tablespoons of salt. I'd do that ASAP, the longer you wait, the less likely a recovery will happen. I had a Bala Shark get the crap beat out of it by my old Texas and Carpintis. I moved it to a 5 gallon and added salt, I didn't think it was going to make it at all. But within 12 hours of moving it, it showed signs it would make it. It's now in with the guppies and mollies and thriving.
Heat, aquarium salt and time if he is going to pull through that's his best chance. Meds can be more stressful and that's the last thing it needs now.
ok im goin to run off to the store and get some salt..... but i only have the 20 gallon and i have 4 festae in there should i leave them in there or what should i dont want to put them in the 150 they will become snacks???Gatorxxx420;4796851;4796851 said:
