I NEED HELP

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
MattyA said:
30ppm in the grand scheme of things is sweet FA. Fish will tolerate extremely high levels of nitrate for short periods of time with no hassles at all. I kid you not, to keep my nitrates under 30ppm I would be doing a water change every 36-48 hours. What fish do you keep?
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Show tank of adult angels. I cycle three breeding pairs of angels through a 29. A red devil in a 75, and a colony of tropheus in a 55 with some julidochromis. We're gonna see how things work in a 55, and if need be I'm going to upgrade to a 75 or 120.
And also a 10 gallon that's currently just a box of water

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When keeping bigger fish it's pretty unheard of to keep nitrates under 30ppm depending on size of the tank, unless obviously you are doing daily or second day water changes or using a denitrator. I haven't seen my nitrates under 30ppm since I first cycled it around 9 months back.
 
MattyA said:
When keeping bigger fish it's pretty unheard of to keep nitrates under 30ppm depending on size of the tank, unless obviously you are doing daily or second day water changes or using a denitrator. I haven't seen my nitrates under 30ppm since I first cycled it around 9 months back.
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That's not true. You're basically saying you have too many fish in too little of a tank. I currently have 13 fish ranging from 7-18" in my 125 while my 300 is cycling and my nitrates stay under 40ppm with 2 weekly 50-60% water changes. And I feed heavy


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While I agree with you strollo, I think what Matty is trying to get across us that even nitrates at 50ppm isn't much to stress about, and definitely isn't causing this

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Yes exactly that. My sump was also set up when I had a lot less knowledge then what I have now so it is not designed that well and does accumulate some crap, most likely being the cause of the nitrates. I didn't explain myself enough sorry. I am about to redo my sump actually, so i will put in a FBF aswell as the wet/dry system. With my current stock, a redesigned sump and a weekly 50% water change I am hoping for my nitrates to keep under 60ppm. I will leave you guys to it anyway, rather than clogging up this thread with unrelated stuff.
 
It is diffacult to tell what exactly is wrong but I will make a couple of suggestions. I agree you should have a test kit. Do a 50% water change and vacume the substrate. Add 1 table spoon of aquarium salt per 10 gallons of water. Keep the nitrates at or below 20ppm as elavated levels of nitrates over extended periods of time cause low level stress and will compromise the fishes immune system and the fish will be less capable of fighting off infections, IPs etc. Always test the water befor a water change and let the numbers dictate the amount and frequency.

Treat the tank with Prazi or API general cure and follow the instructions on the package. Treat for the entire time as instructed it sometimes takes two courses of treatment to get it if the fish isn't eating. Have you noticed the fish passing white mucus type feces? I realize it's not eating but have you noticed anything? There is a posibilty it is an internal bacterial infection so if you see no improvement after treating for IPs we might have to switch meds and try another approch. As a side note Kanamycin (Seachem Kanaplex) is very well absorbed and is and excelent choice to use in conjunction with API GC if it's available to you. DO NOT USE JUST ANY ANTIBIOTIC it is important to use the right one the right way. If and when you need more info on this please post befor doing anything.
 
It looks look it may have internal parasites. Follow the advice given by Tom (Aquanero), Asap. Stomach looks like it's starting to sink in. He made have gotten them from the live feeders.


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Aquanero said:
It is diffacult to tell what exactly is wrong but I will make a couple of suggestions. I agree you should have a test kit. Do a 50% water change and vacume the substrate. Add 1 table spoon of aquarium salt per 10 gallons of water. Keep the nitrates at or below 20ppm as elavated levels of nitrates over extended periods of time cause low level stress and will compromise the fishes immune system and the fish will be less capable of fighting off infections, IPs etc. Always test the water befor a water change and let the numbers dictate the amount and frequency.

Treat the tank with Prazi or API general cure and follow the instructions on the package. Treat for the entire time as instructed it sometimes takes two courses of treatment to get it if the fish isn't eating. Have you noticed the fish passing white mucus type feces? I realize it's not eating but have you noticed anything? There is a posibilty it is an internal bacterial infection so if you see no improvement after treating for IPs we might have to switch meds and try another approch. As a side note Kanamycin (Seachem Kanaplex) is very well absorbed and is and excelent choice to use in conjunction with API GC if it's available to you. DO NOT USE JUST ANY ANTIBIOTIC it is important to use the right one the right way. If and when you need more info on this please post befor doing anything.
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I will get my own test kit. Also, he has had Hex before and I treated him, and he got all better. But then a week or so later, he got sick again. I have tried aquariam salt, epsom salt, API General Cure, everything.
 
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