I like the sump recommendtations so far, so I have nothing to add there, but I would recommend having your builder drill holes to accommodate 2" Schedule 80 bulkhead fittings: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulkhead-schedule-80-thread-x-thread-2.html
In my experience, the schedule 80 bulkhead fittings are much less likely to leak or crack; they are a lot nicer than the cheap ABS bulkhead fittings.
I agree, whatever size you pick, 1", 1.5" OR 2", have it drilled for schedule 80 bulkheads. Also the more drain capacity the better. Once your drains are in they are very difficult to change. If you need more flow on the pump side of things you just add another pump or replace a pump with a larger one. If you have the drain capacity. Also if you’re going to add a trickle system it's nice to have the extra drain capacity.
As far as overflow lines go, for the valves i recommend gate valves. I used ball valves on mine to make the herby style overflow, but when one line is under a siphon, the ball valve is realy hard to turn. If you just do an overflow and not a siphon is shouldn’t matter much, but if you ever need to adjust flow rate by valving a line, I would definitely do gate valves. Ball valves are hit and miss as far as adjusting goes
I couldn't agree more! Gate valves are made to control flow ball valves are not.
If possible look into a trickle system. I have a drain in all my sumps that goes out to my yard. The drain is in the same section as the return pump and set to a level with a 1" PVC 90 degree elbow pointing up and a small piece of PVC in the elbow cut to whatever height I want the water level at. Then run a 1/4" "ice maker" line from any cold water supply to the top of your tank. I set my flow to about 1 gallon of water an hour and never did another water change. 6 years now without issues.



