Leopoldi turning gray/white...
- Thread starter Proximus
- Start date
Thanks for the replies.
Went down in the basement this morning, and she is now compleatly black again... just like that.
Parameters (Measured yesterday):
pH 7,2
KH: Very low
GH: Very low
N03: max 25 ppm
No NO2 or ammonia readings
I also see this as important, so i always try to keep the tankwater as close to the tapwater as possible. Fluctuating water parameters could of course have been the reason, but in this case i think it must be something else cousing her to get stressed. I do not exclude the possibilaty of a combintation of several things though... you never know...
Right now i really just think it was the the other female who stressed her out...
Went down in the basement this morning, and she is now compleatly black again... just like that.
Parameters (Measured yesterday):
pH 7,2
KH: Very low
GH: Very low
N03: max 25 ppm
No NO2 or ammonia readings
I also see this as important, so i always try to keep the tankwater as close to the tapwater as possible. Fluctuating water parameters could of course have been the reason, but in this case i think it must be something else cousing her to get stressed. I do not exclude the possibilaty of a combintation of several things though... you never know...
Right now i really just think it was the the other female who stressed her out...
I would invest in a PH monitor if your KH and GH are very low as that would make the PH wander a lot at times when the Rays poop etc...
If you can get one with an alarm or data log then that could alert you to any potential problems...if the PH is dropping and recovering then the filter bacteria could be less effective.
I personally recommend the Aquatronica. It is expensive but I have got mine plotting a graph of the PH constantly as well as alarms for any .5 PH changes.
These also have wonderful expandability for other things (I have a safety setting on my drip so that it shuts off if the sump gets too high or if there is a power cut etc....It also times my drips and monitors oxygen levels, temp blah blah.
Also agreed that this is most likely to be stress, either bullying or PH related.
If you can get one with an alarm or data log then that could alert you to any potential problems...if the PH is dropping and recovering then the filter bacteria could be less effective.
I personally recommend the Aquatronica. It is expensive but I have got mine plotting a graph of the PH constantly as well as alarms for any .5 PH changes.
These also have wonderful expandability for other things (I have a safety setting on my drip so that it shuts off if the sump gets too high or if there is a power cut etc....It also times my drips and monitors oxygen levels, temp blah blah.
Also agreed that this is most likely to be stress, either bullying or PH related.
Toby,
Thats true, and i don`t feel comfortable with this low KH readings at all. Still i have a lot of limestone in my canisters, and also some in the main tank - and i have not experienced/registered any big pH fluctuations for a long time (i measure pH almost every day + some times before and after waterchanges).
My tapwater is pretty soft, and the pH some times goes down to about 7 - 7,1 after a waterchange, then some times it goes up again after 3-4 days to about 7,2 (depending on how much i feed of course). So there must be some kind of buffering effect in there... i don`t quite understand, but could be that i have had bad luck with the last two testkits - that they have been out of date or something...
Yesterday i spent 2k on a power aggregate (in case of long term power failures), so it have to wait... - But i shure will consider to look more into this Aquatronica divice as soon as possible
It absolutely seems like a good investment.
Thats true, and i don`t feel comfortable with this low KH readings at all. Still i have a lot of limestone in my canisters, and also some in the main tank - and i have not experienced/registered any big pH fluctuations for a long time (i measure pH almost every day + some times before and after waterchanges).
My tapwater is pretty soft, and the pH some times goes down to about 7 - 7,1 after a waterchange, then some times it goes up again after 3-4 days to about 7,2 (depending on how much i feed of course). So there must be some kind of buffering effect in there... i don`t quite understand, but could be that i have had bad luck with the last two testkits - that they have been out of date or something...
Yesterday i spent 2k on a power aggregate (in case of long term power failures), so it have to wait... - But i shure will consider to look more into this Aquatronica divice as soon as possible
It absolutely seems like a good investment.Proximus;4932810; said:Toby,
Thats true, and i don`t feel comfortable with this low KH readings at all. Still i have a lot of limestone in my canisters, and also some in the main tank - and i have not experienced/registered any big pH fluctuations for a long time (i measure pH almost every day + some times before and after waterchanges).
My tapwater is pretty soft, and the pH some times goes down to about 7 - 7,1 after a waterchange, then some times it goes up again after 3-4 days to about 7,2 (depending on how much i feed of course). So there must be some kind of buffering effect in there... i don`t quite understand, but could be that i have had bad luck with the last two testkits - that they have been out of date or something...
Yesterday i spent 2k on a power aggregate (in case of long term power failures), so it have to wait... - But i shure will consider to look more into this Aquatronica divice as soon as possible
I wonder why the hardness is reading low if you have the limestone in the cannisters, maybe they have lost the bulk of thier buffering? surely if they are working then the KH GH would be higher?
One more test kit cannot harm, do not use dip strips though as they are not accurate enough to nail this down.
i have a leo female that does the same thing its 100% stress.just maintian consistancy with all parameters.is it possibly your ph drops by the time you do water changes?
this is what causes mine to turn pale exactly like yours.
this is what causes mine to turn pale exactly like yours.
Leost;4927467; said:
"it will b cool" hey?????? and possibly kill that already stress fish.
prazi is not a cure for everything.i have read many threads today and people want to dose rays with prazi for anything.prazi only treats some parasites thats what its used for everybody one here needs to stop reccomending prazi for everything because one day somebody will and kill their rays.
in this situation that rays stressed due to water quality issues.meds always stress rays, throw prazi into the mix with a already stessing ray and possibly harm it even more or kill the poor thing.
i have been keeping rays for a while now up until last year i never used to frequent any sort of internet fish forums.I never once medicated rays until i read these threads on sites like this and get crazy ideas.i think top quality pure water is the very best treatment for rays.probably the most simple oldest secret in the book.The only thing i think rays maybe needed to be medicated for is parasites they cant shake off them selfs!! what i mean is rays can fight off any problems with just good old water "everybody try this if possible instead of aimlessley using meds"
i agree Calgary. its not parasites, the ray was just alil stressed. IMO some pple on here need to just look at post, and tell pple that their ray looks good when posting pics, not give advice when they clearly don't really know what they are talking about lol
totally, thanks for telling it like it is. ( both posters above this)I have to agree that once you have passed the real basics of a cycled filter then 99.9% of good fish keeping is regular water changes and that's about it.....keep up the water changes and generally fish don't get sick...
It only seems to go wrong when the new water is doing something odd, like poor buffering or high nitrates.
It only seems to go wrong when the new water is doing something odd, like poor buffering or high nitrates.
