Monster 500g tank move...

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Ramesh;2934388; said:
Yes I understand, one is for a canister filter the other is for a sump.
The canister may have to have the same setup as the sump, where I have a pipe running from the drain up vertically up to the water level with a siphon break and then back down to the sump tank.
I have though about the power outage issue for the sump but thought the closed system of the canister would be fine but I am open to any advice and experience.
Click to expand...
You'll have to run a vert line like you mentioned with a siphon break and "T" it off where you want your water level...then if an outage occurs you will only drain down to the siphon break... as far as the canister goes, as long as you have some shut off valves near the canister and you trust your plumbing you can go directly from the tank to canister...IMO of course...

Didn't the builder suggest some overflow boxes, for inside the tank, and bottom holes?
 
I looked into overflow boxes and have one in my 240 but the are noisey and take up volume from the inside of the tank.
They also don't filter detritus from the bottom of the tank which is what I want.
I know it can be done with bottom brains so I am not too worried.
 
Here's the sump over flow pipe setup coming from the bottom drain on the left hand side.
It stops the water from completely draining from the tank and overflowing my sump and fishroom.
The pipe in 1 1/2 inches so will drain about 115L or 30G approx if filled completely.

Monster stand setup 040.jpg

Monster stand setup 039.jpg
 
Your plumbing strategy strongly resembles Rivermud's Test Tank thread. He is our newest DIY intellect and has come up with some really good ideas. Here is his plumbing schematic with the drains at the bottom and valves for draining and water changes.
attachment.php
 
You guys are just amazing, the 30% water changer is a great idea.
Thanks chompers, I got my idea from thefishguy thread about making his 800g larger.
 
By the way Ramesh, your little girl is a real cutie.


The Rio 20HF is going to pump around 900 gph but the 1.5" pipe plumbed like that is going to flow around 840 gph. The pump can be throttled down with a ball valve or the extra water can be diverted back to the sump for additional filtration (sock filter or maybe an algae turf scrubber).

The canister is going to be fine plumbed at the bottom of the tank. When it is shut down, the static pressure in the canister will be identical to that of a canister plumbed with hose over the edge of the tank.
 
Your spot on about little Lola mate, she is a dream come true and thanks again for all your help and advice.
I will post more pics as I get things up and running.
I am also going to add the auto water change feature for 25%-30% water changes.
 
CHOMPERS;2936289; said:
By the way Ramesh, your little girl is a real cutie.


The Rio 20HF is going to pump around 900 gph but the 1.5" pipe plumbed like that is going to flow around 840 gph. The pump can be throttled down with a ball valve or the extra water can be diverted back to the sump for additional filtration (sock filter or maybe an algae turf scrubber).

The canister is going to be fine plumbed at the bottom of the tank. When it is shut down, the static pressure in the canister will be identical to that of a canister plumbed with hose over the edge of the tank.
Click to expand...

Is the 900 gph for the Rio take into account the pump head hight?
The stand is 80cm and the tank 65cm.
 
Rio doesn't have a pump curve but they have a little information here:
http://www.riopump.net/products_pumps/hyperflow_models.html

Without previously knowing your tank and stand heights, I figured it would be between the two heights listed. 900 was an educated guess, but I just did the math using your height and came up with 940 gph.
 
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