Looking forward to seeing it full, I also can see the finish line. Hoping for a test fill next weekend, and in place and full by the end of the month
My 315G Plywood Tank Build
- Thread starter BadOleRoss
- Start date
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Ross have you received the new pane of glass yet?
After your build when Downhill, there isnt much updates from anybody on their build
After your build when Downhill, there isnt much updates from anybody on their build
xdragonxb0i;4053817; said:Ross have you received the new pane of glass yet?
After your build when Downhill, there isnt much updates from anybody on their build
Yes, received the new glass and have it all in place. I am finishing up with the pond coat/liquid rubber and then will give it a few days to dry before filling. I understand that applying a calcium cloride solution to the PC/LR right after you put it on will cure it within seconds. I am going to give that a test and see what happens. If I can figure out where I set my camera down, I will post some pics of the light hood tonight.
BadOleRoss;4051761; said:I just comented on your thread, the fiberglass resin did the trick and sealed the viewing window. I am currently adding a few more coats on PC where I replaced my frame and then I will fill it.
Thanks for the info Ross,
Any certian specifics on the fiberglass resin?
I mean like a Brand or any certian formulation? And just one coat?
Bondo?
Polyester fiberglass resin?
Bondo?
Polyester fiberglass resin?
CatmanJuice;4054934; said:I mean like a Brand or any certian formulation? And just one coat?
Bondo?
Polyester fiberglass resin?
I have done a lot of composite work. If it was me I would use the marine grade epoxy resin.
I didnt have marine grade within reach but I would use that if I had it. I believe the brand I used was bondo but will check the nest time I pass by the container. It was 100% waterproof and had low VOCs when cured. I did apply several coats to be sure I got good coverage. I then roughed it up with sandpaper to be sure the silicone and PC stuck.
OK, the Calcium Chloride had no effect on PC/LR worth talking about. When sprayed, it did turn black a little quicker but it did not set up any quicker. Just beacuse something looks dry does not mean it is. What did help my PC/LR dry faster and actually cure was my tank lights. I have had them buring for the past couple weeks and noticed that the tackiness is gone. The LR is dry and smooth. I did put the final coats on today so we will see how long that takes to dry.
BadOleRoss;4055747; said:I didnt have marine grade within reach but I would use that if I had it. I believe the brand I used was bondo but will check the nest time I pass by the container. It was 100% waterproof and had low VOCs when cured. I did apply several coats to be sure I got good coverage. I then roughed it up with sandpaper to be sure the silicone and PC stuck.
I don't think marine grade is the most important part. In my opinion, for this type of application, epoxy is much better than the other common resins. There are aircraft grade composites that are even better but are expensive and hard to find. The spray sealers used on wet wings would be great for plywood tanks but you would probably need a has mat license and deep pockets to get it.
