My Flowerhorn has this transparent poops for 2 weeks.
- Thread starter lolkill11
- Start date
http://www.loaches.com/Members/shari2/levamisole-hydrochloride-1. Use this for instructions. Do not overdose. Won't help any. Also note levamisole is light sensitive.
Also note that if it is hex and you continue to try and treat it using medications it will only hurt your fish in the long run from.over exposure.
Levamisole as a dewormer is said to be pretty much harmless if used properly and therefore can be used without much worry. Although I have a strong feeling that your case is very similar to mine and your fish will hopefully start doing better after the levamisole treatment.
Give it a few days after your first round and then start lightly offering food. The medication can remain in the fish for up to 3 days even after the large water change. Please keep us updated.
Levamisole as a dewormer is said to be pretty much harmless if used properly and therefore can be used without much worry. Although I have a strong feeling that your case is very similar to mine and your fish will hopefully start doing better after the levamisole treatment.
Give it a few days after your first round and then start lightly offering food. The medication can remain in the fish for up to 3 days even after the large water change. Please keep us updated.
Except with your fish, Phillip, it did not shut down and refuse to eat. I'm not sure why you said that it did? The OP's fish hasn't eaten in 2 weeks. Typically fish with worms do not completely go off their feed. They may eat less, or with tapeworms may not grow at a proper rate, but they will continue to eat.
To the OP - was this FH recently imported?
To the OP - was this FH recently imported?
Actually towards the end he did stop eating and that's when I treated with levamisole.
I am not sure why your trying to go against what I am saying but I have first hand experience with my fish and simply sharing what worked for me. And I have read that with capillaria worms that the fish will begin to refuse food.
I am not sure why your trying to go against what I am saying but I have first hand experience with my fish and simply sharing what worked for me. And I have read that with capillaria worms that the fish will begin to refuse food.
I'm not going against anything, but please understand that a single experience, with a single fish, doesn't mean that every fish in fish land is going to have the same issue, with the exact same parasite or pathogen. This is exactly why I always advise people to start small and work their way up when using meds. With FH from places such as Thailand worms are common due to what they are fed as juveniles, but they aren't always round worms. So Prazi will work for some, and others require Levamisole. A lot of people believe that Prazi treat for all "worms", just like you did when you treated your fish, and just like the OP did. A common mistake made by many.
But at the same time parasites such as Spironucleus vortens (aka Hexamita) are also very common with FH, so with ANY freshly imported FH one should always immediately deworm, and IMHO treat for Spiro/Hex. This is coming from someone who has seen a LOT of this over the years, and someone who has imported and raised FH from that part of the world.
But at the same time parasites such as Spironucleus vortens (aka Hexamita) are also very common with FH, so with ANY freshly imported FH one should always immediately deworm, and IMHO treat for Spiro/Hex. This is coming from someone who has seen a LOT of this over the years, and someone who has imported and raised FH from that part of the world.
so if the fish does not stop eating or does not have any visible worms hanging out how do you know if they have worms? I recently imported a fish he had gill flukes or body flukes(I did not get a scrape sample)I did not even know what flukes was I almost lost the fish I thought the fish had ich. I treated with prozi cleared it up(still treating)
You dont.
That's the thing, the only way to really know what any fish has inside them is to look under a scope. Otherwise your guessing and wasting time.
That's the thing, the only way to really know what any fish has inside them is to look under a scope. Otherwise your guessing and wasting time.
Yeah, not exactly Phillip. lol
Start small, and when required you go big. Any and all FH imported from Asia need to be dewormed, period. I recall some of the guys on FH forums years ago deworming their fish every 6 months to a year - that's how paranoid of worms they were. I had to explain to them that deworming does not need to be performed yearly, or bi-yearly, unless one is adding new stock. Even then it should be done in QT when new stock arrives. I'm sure many didn't believe me. lol
Prazi resolves flukes, flatworms, tapeworms, but for most other nematodes Levamisole is the way to roll. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa091
No one needs to rush out and buy a microscope such as you did, Phillip. Of course it helps, kind of a no brainer, but to a keen eye the more common fish health issues can typically be resolved by experience. As an example, an imported fish such as JGotti's was most likely flashing, along with shaking of the head/body. Having seen this in person (more than once) straight away I would suspect gill flukes, and treat as he/she did. (Prazi) That's starting small. Prazi is completely safe to cichlids when used at approved levels. At the same time I would monitor for any signs of ich - or any other new symptoms.
Deworming for all new FH is also a no brainer. Again, no need for a microscope if one knows what they are doing and has some experience in this area. If not, that's what these forums are for. FH are typically raised on contaminated food in SE Asia (live bloodworms) and worms are almost always going to be present in the fishes guts. So unless the person importing the FH has dewormed the fish, then you best be prepared to do it. Deworming is Standard Operating Procedure for FH owners. Period.
I would state same for any fish purchased at a LFS, as many of those ornamental fish originate from Asia. Even the fish that comes from ponds in Florida often start their lives in Taiwan, Singapore, Bangkok, etc.
Again, IME when it comes to worms, unless a tape worm is suspected, my go to dewormer would be Levamisole. When used at the correct levels (what I posted above) it is again a very safe medication. When overdosed it can, and has killed fish.
These treatments are short in duration, and unless abused very safe to all fish.
So FIRST step in preventative treatment to ALL fish that fall under the description above - deworm! That's starting small, and is most certainly not a waste of time, as young Phillip would have you believe. This is Phillips first "big" cichlid so you will have to forgive his ignorance.
After that, once the fish is eating, I would highly recommend feeding a medicated food such as NLS Hex-Shield. It is a very nutrient dense feed that also contains Metronidazole, Magnesium Sulfate, and a mega dose of Garlic. If your fish will eat it (mine all will, for eat least 3-5 days) then you should be good to go. Sometimes this feed may require two go arounds.
Again, that's starting small, and killing two potential bad bugs (nematodes/Hexamita) with a one two knock out punch.
If that doesn't work, then one needs to consider the big guns, such as force feeding metro, clout, clear, etc.
Just remember that none of this is an exact science, even if you own a microscope. Just as in all other life forms, fish are individuals and sometimes what works for one, does not always work for another. This could be due to the individuals immune response, it's age, how bad the infestation or pathogens have spread, etc-etc-etc. In some cases, the fish could have 2-3 things going on at the same time.
HTH
Start small, and when required you go big. Any and all FH imported from Asia need to be dewormed, period. I recall some of the guys on FH forums years ago deworming their fish every 6 months to a year - that's how paranoid of worms they were. I had to explain to them that deworming does not need to be performed yearly, or bi-yearly, unless one is adding new stock. Even then it should be done in QT when new stock arrives. I'm sure many didn't believe me. lol
Prazi resolves flukes, flatworms, tapeworms, but for most other nematodes Levamisole is the way to roll. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa091
No one needs to rush out and buy a microscope such as you did, Phillip. Of course it helps, kind of a no brainer, but to a keen eye the more common fish health issues can typically be resolved by experience. As an example, an imported fish such as JGotti's was most likely flashing, along with shaking of the head/body. Having seen this in person (more than once) straight away I would suspect gill flukes, and treat as he/she did. (Prazi) That's starting small. Prazi is completely safe to cichlids when used at approved levels. At the same time I would monitor for any signs of ich - or any other new symptoms.
Deworming for all new FH is also a no brainer. Again, no need for a microscope if one knows what they are doing and has some experience in this area. If not, that's what these forums are for. FH are typically raised on contaminated food in SE Asia (live bloodworms) and worms are almost always going to be present in the fishes guts. So unless the person importing the FH has dewormed the fish, then you best be prepared to do it. Deworming is Standard Operating Procedure for FH owners. Period.
I would state same for any fish purchased at a LFS, as many of those ornamental fish originate from Asia. Even the fish that comes from ponds in Florida often start their lives in Taiwan, Singapore, Bangkok, etc.
Again, IME when it comes to worms, unless a tape worm is suspected, my go to dewormer would be Levamisole. When used at the correct levels (what I posted above) it is again a very safe medication. When overdosed it can, and has killed fish.
These treatments are short in duration, and unless abused very safe to all fish.
So FIRST step in preventative treatment to ALL fish that fall under the description above - deworm! That's starting small, and is most certainly not a waste of time, as young Phillip would have you believe. This is Phillips first "big" cichlid so you will have to forgive his ignorance.
After that, once the fish is eating, I would highly recommend feeding a medicated food such as NLS Hex-Shield. It is a very nutrient dense feed that also contains Metronidazole, Magnesium Sulfate, and a mega dose of Garlic. If your fish will eat it (mine all will, for eat least 3-5 days) then you should be good to go. Sometimes this feed may require two go arounds.
Again, that's starting small, and killing two potential bad bugs (nematodes/Hexamita) with a one two knock out punch.
If that doesn't work, then one needs to consider the big guns, such as force feeding metro, clout, clear, etc.
Just remember that none of this is an exact science, even if you own a microscope. Just as in all other life forms, fish are individuals and sometimes what works for one, does not always work for another. This could be due to the individuals immune response, it's age, how bad the infestation or pathogens have spread, etc-etc-etc. In some cases, the fish could have 2-3 things going on at the same time.
HTH
Your not reading what I posted and what he asked.
Your still guessing, my point is a microscope can provide proof of what you have and without it your educated guess could be right but could be wrong.
How am I ignorant exactly?! Your the one implying you know exactly what the fish has without no proof.
To the op do what you want. I don't need to guess anymore, but the user above me does at every chance he gets.
Your still guessing, my point is a microscope can provide proof of what you have and without it your educated guess could be right but could be wrong.
How am I ignorant exactly?! Your the one implying you know exactly what the fish has without no proof.
To the op do what you want. I don't need to guess anymore, but the user above me does at every chance he gets.
