My new 150 gallon on custom stand (pic)

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
jschall;4387361; said:
I'm pretty sure the surface of the stand isn't perfect. I can't tell if the tank is bowed or not.
I want to do some kind of foam or rubber, but I'm not sure it'll make the slightest difference if it's not thick, and I only have about a quarter inch before the frame sticks up above the trim.

I would advise to put a shim underneath the low point. Adding foam under the tank will not account for the difference, it will merely mask the issue. Foam is typically reserved for use on acrylic tanks to eliminate the risk of debris getting under the tank and causing problems. To be honest, with a clean surface area, foam really isn't needed on acrylics either. I do not use it at all.
 
Pharaoh;4387409; said:
I would advise to put a shim underneath the low point. Adding foam under the tank will not account for the difference, it will merely mask the issue. Foam is typically reserved for use on acrylic tanks to eliminate the risk of debris getting under the tank and causing problems. To be honest, with a clean surface area, foam really isn't needed on acrylics either. I do not use it at all.
I heard it's never good to shim under a tank.
 
I would just leave it as is depending on where these gaps are. gaps in the middle on glass tanks are not a problem as long as the tank is level and the ends are well supported. as mentioned, foam will not help. it just hides the issue.

the foam will compress fully in the high spots but not in the low spots so the tank will still have a gap there. so the tank is still 'floating' locally in that area. but you can't see it anymore. but it doesn't resolve the issue at all.

you could however, try and sand the stand down to make it even across.
 
I have shimmed many tanks. Shouldn't be a problem at all. In fact, i just put a shim under my 265 as one corner was slightly out.
 
12 Volt Man;4387531; said:
I would just leave it as is depending on where these gaps are. gaps in the middle on glass tanks are not a problem as long as the tank is level and the ends are well supported. as mentioned, foam will not help. it just hides the issue.

the foam will compress fully in the high spots but not in the low spots so the tank will still have a gap there. so the tank is still 'floating' locally in that area. but you can't see it anymore. but it doesn't resolve the issue at all.

you could however, try and sand the stand down to make it even across.

If you use the correct density foam, it will provide support under the low areas. If you sleep on a mattress rather than a hard floor (stand), you know the benefits foam can do to relieve pressure points.

I did compression experiments on styrofoam and exercise mats a couple years ago. It turns out the 1/2" exercise mat is a near perfect solution to reduce high-force areas due to uneven stands (up to 1/8").

The OP has a 150G tall tank. The force per frame inch is ~ 10.2 lbs. 1/2" exercise mat compresses about 10% with 7.5lbs/inch. With a perfectly flat stand, the foam mat will compress about 15% (~ 1/12"). In your case, the areas where you have the 1/32" gaps, the foam may only compress ~10%. However, that area is still being supported at ~7.5lbs/inch of force. That will relieve some of the pressure that other parts of the frame would have to absorb if you had nothing under the tank. Again, that is the same principle as a mattress.

I think foam doesn't get credit for stress relief because most people think "styrofoam" rather than closed-cell exercise mat. BTW - sleeping on styrofoam would be nearly as painful as sleeping on a bare floor because stryfoam is too stiff (pink styrofoam needs 25lbs/inch for a 10% compression).

Foam Dented.JPG

Foam Test.JPG

Frame and Foam Chart.JPG

Frame.JPG
 
OK. Here is where I will leave the discussion as it is turning into the same old song. If your tank/stand/ floor is unlevel, you need to correct it. Add a shim, brace the floor, or sand the tank stand.

Putting foam under a tank to correct for inconsistencies is a crap shoot at best. If you feel that foam will work, then go for it. It is all about your warm and fuzzy feeling.

I do not recommend foam, nor would I ever use it on my glass tanks. All in all, the math doesn't support its use. I recommend the first option.
 
Pharaoh;4387761; said:
OK. Here is where I will leave the discussion as it is turning into the same old song. If your tank/stand/ floor is unlevel, you need to correct it. Add a shim, brace the floor, or sand the tank stand.

Putting foam under a tank to correct for inconsistencies is a crap shoot at best. If you feel that foam will work, then go for it. It is all about your warm and fuzzy feeling.

I do not recommend foam, nor would I ever use it on my glass tanks. All in all, the math doesn't support its use. I recommend the first option.

I think you and I have had this discussion the past two years. I believe it goes like this:

Your solution is to ensure a perfectly flat stand before you set up the tank. I respond that unless you have a metal stand on a concrete floor like 12 Volt Man, a wooden stand and floor will sag unevenly over time and the resilient exercise mat is there to compensate.

I then show a picture of my 75G tank/stand that was perfectly flat when I set it up, but now after 4 years the top is like a roller coaster (I started to notice variations in the foam compression in the middle after a few months). And that is with the stand on a concrete floor. I can only imagine how much more of a tank twisting force a sagging wooden floor would have added.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com