Need help setting up a FOWLR

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Deaner;4190769; said:
Hi there my tank is a 75 gallon corner tank. Currently it is brackish water with mollys in to cycle. At first i was convinced i was going to go with a puffer setup but, during this time ive been doing alot of research on brackish and salt setups. I have decided id like to go the salt route (FOWLR). I have a few issues that i think are going to cause problems in trying to go this route. Here are some questions that id really appreciate to be answered.

1. My tank has a 3" lip around it where the canopy/light fixture sits in, is there somehow i could fit in a overflow box? or will i have to drill the tank?
you could build a pvc overflow. Or some overflow boxes have extended gaps for lips and they are adjustable. Not to mention you don't need a wet/dry.
2. Before i go ahead and make a sump, what size of tank would you suggest in me using? Hoping i could fit it in the compartment underneath my tank to hide all the filtration. its roughly 22"x17"x24"
The tank size will only matter for GPH not what size tank it cleans. If its small then you can only have a certain gph otherwise during a power out it would flood. You can have the smallest sump, and still make it very effective.

3. Currently the salinity is at 1.012, will i be able to raise this to full marine without destroying the bacteria that is built up so far?
Yea i would just start bumping it up, till you get to .23
4. Fluval 405 on the tank right now, but would plan on removing it eventually. Would it be smart for me to leave it on for a while after i introduce a wet/dry?
I would still use the fluval. Just with saltwater you need to be on top of your canister filter cleanings. They are still a very usefull product.
4. As of now i do not have a RO/DI unit, but plan on getting one in the near future, will i be able to get by without one for the first couple months? or is this a bad idea
Check your local tap water results. I use tap water and have never used ro/di for any of my tanks
All this said, I realize the tank is more geared towards a fresh water setup, but im determined to go salt. Have been out of the hobby for a few years but feel that im ready to take the next step. I have attached a few pictures of the setup so you can get a feel of what im talking about.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

good luck and lets here more questions!
Dual Bak-Pak 2:
This filter provides complete hang-on filtration that incorporates two protein skimmers, eliminating the need to use two regular Bak-Pak units. Includes a biological filtration chamber in the middle. The biological chamber utilizes CPR's Bio-Bale biological filter media to provide maximum surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize. Simply hang on Bak-Pak Dual Pak on the back of an aquarium, plug in the rejuvenation venturi powerheads, and enjoy a worry-free operation! 11-1/2" x 3-3/4" x 18" high, for aquariums up to 120 gallons.

I would also purcahase this skimmer for your tank. Its got enough skimmer power and bio chamber to run your tank. That would eliminate your need for a sump.
 
yes i spoke with my LFS today and they didnt recommend me using a overflow box. Im loading the tank into the back of my truck tonight to bring to the glass shop tomorrow. Will be installing a 1 1/2" bulkhead with overflow box around it. I feel more comfortable going this route, and its important for to me to have a sump in the system. I will be adding a skimmer eventually but i guess ill take it one step at a time. Im going to be taking the full cover off the top of the tank, i was thinking of making a new one out of acrylic with a hinge, has this been done before?
 
what benefits do the filter socks provide?

by the way, thanks so much for all the quick responses, this site is great. Much more helpful than the other i use to be involved in
 
removed the extra filter compartment ontop of the tank. i thought this was a good idea at first, in the end it just became a pain, always in the way. that silicone holding it on was tuff!

could you provide a sump design that you think would work best?

im think the best spot for the hole will be in the back corner where the bracing is sort of out of the way, should i be getting it drilled as high up at possible?

would you suggest building a overflow box around the bulkhead?

also should i be bringing the return of the sump in through the little holes at the top of the tank in picture 3? im guessing the farthest hole to the left away from the hole would be better

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yes it is a strange tank design. a bit of a pain in the ass the way the light sits inside the tank like that. i called the guy where i bought it from today and he said that its not tempered glass on the back of these tanks. And that i will have no problem drilling a hole in there, ill leave it to the professionals at the glass store. is 1 1/2" standard size for overflow bulheads?

also getting a bit ahead of myself here, but i have the black/blue solid colour background ready to go on after. what would you say looks better for a marine tank? i was thinking black before i decided i was going to go salt, now im thinking blue
 
Deaner;4192174; said:
yes it is a strange tank design. a bit of a pain in the ass the way the light sits inside the tank like that. i called the guy where i bought it from today and he said that its not tempered glass on the back of these tanks. And that i will have no problem drilling a hole in there, ill leave it to the professionals at the glass store. is 1 1/2" standard size for overflow bulheads?

also getting a bit ahead of myself here, but i have the black/blue solid colour background ready to go on after. what would you say looks better for a marine tank? i was thinking black before i decided i was going to go salt, now im thinking blue
Click to expand...

black... for sure.

When sizing bulkheads or any holes remember this chart.

size _GPM __GPH
1/2 = 2.50 = 150
3/4 = 5.63 = 337.5
1.0 = 10.0 = 600
1.25=15.6 = 937.5
1.5 = 22.5 = 1350
2.0 = 40.0 = 2400

Your pump will have to be slightly slower, but get it as close as possible to get full efficiency
 
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