Need Help: Thousand Island Stingray Not Active and Not Eating

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Why would it alter the ph? Presumably you're putting in the same water, from the same source, every time you do a water change. The ph of my water supply is very consistent, right around 7. Is that not the case for you?

But every serious fishkeeper does big weekly (if not more frequent) water changes. It's not optional regardless of ph.

If he hasnt changed water for som time the ph of his tankwater drops due to being polluted by fishwaste. And when doing a large wc he puts in water with higher ph and it fluctuates wich can directly kill the fish. So if it where me in that situation id rather do 20-30% wc every day for a couple of days instead of one large wc lets say 80%. By doing small frequent changes hes not altering the ph to much at a time.
 
Never used hydors canisters. If you can get your hands on an eheim 2260 or 2262 that would be better. Thats an expensive canister but yet one of the best out there if not the best if you aint going up to pondfiltration wich is what i use on my large tank. If you are in to DIY you could do an bakkishower easy and cheap. That way you will increase your filtration to the max and also saturate the oxygenlevels in the tank.

Here is a pic of one of my showerfilters.

And one more thin. When was the last tkme you cleaned you fx6?

View attachment 1390418

I clean it monthly. I cleaned it yesterday.
 
If he hasnt changed water for som time the ph of his tankwater drops due to being polluted by fishwaste. And when doing a large wc he puts in water with higher ph and it fluctuates wich can directly kill the fish. So if it where me in that situation id rather do 20-30% wc every day for a couple of days instead of one large wc lets say 80%. By doing small frequent changes hes not altering the ph to much at a time.
Ok ... but hopefully he gets on a regular water change schedule and so doesn't have the ph issue moving forward.
 
Ok ... but hopefully he gets on a regular water change schedule and so doesn't have the ph issue moving forward.

My best advice is instead of investing in a new filter invest in a larger tank. I have as stated before two tanks little larger then this and i feel bad for putting larger rays in them but i have to keep an eye on one of ly females as i suspect she is pregnant and one male in another tank due to him being an total horndog and wont let my females be right now. Hes acting as an pubertal teen that just found internetporn for the first time :nilly: :ROFL:
 
I don't even know where to start here...

Tank is WAY too small. Adult rays need BIG water volume...like 350 gallons at a minimum to dilute the huge waste a ray makes.

Canister filters are trash for rays...unless you go with an ultima, even then I'd still do a large sump with k1.

Water changes are a must even with much larger tanks and adequate filtration. You need to be doing at least 50% every other day with that little tank.

I'm afraid your problems will only get worse if you don't upgrade your tank and filtration. An easy fix would be to build a sump from a large tank. It's easier than you might think, and would be the easiest way to save your ray.
 
This is the first time its been two weeks since I changed water. Normally its once a week. 30%. SO I have been on a regular water change schedule.

Well with that tank, that filtration and that bioload you will need to change 70-80% twice a week to keep your nitrates down. Maybe even three times a week. 30% is not enough
 
I would still like to see the API test results. Especially ammonia and nitrates. This would go a long way towards us giving better advice.

Canister filters are not removing nitrates from the water. They remove the waste and essentially store it but it is still part of the closed system. I do. Are you adding prime as a way to treat water conditions that are out of wack or to treat new water to ensure it is safe to add?
 
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