Need help with tannin removal.

[duanes]

I though it might be an interesting experiment, now that my tank is very super saturated with Tannins, and ....because many aquarists believe that tannins, (and drift wood) have the ability significantly lower pH.
So I ran tests on my tank to see if the dark tea color and saturation by Tannins would actually do what many aquarists believe.


The normal pH of the tank averages 8 to 8.2.
So it looks to me, like the Tannins have reduced pH by about 0.1. from 8.2, to maybe 8.
Much of how water acts with Tannins has to do with its alkalinity (related to hardness) and how the buffering capacity of the alkalinity resists change.
Because the GH (general hardness) of my tank water is 180, and KH (carbonate hardness is also up near 180, this water resists change fairly well, so I'm not that surprised by the slight alteration, even as dark as it has become.
If anotheraquarists tap waters hardness, and alkalinity is not as high, Tannins may influence its pH much more.

 

[CHOMPERS]

That's very interesting. I was part of the crowd that thought tannins had more of an affect on the water chemistry across the board. My alkalinity is 15ppm and hardness is 120ppm. I have seen swings in the pH after running my reactors.
My test kit is made by Taylor for the pool industry. It's age is well beyond the expiration date, so errors are expected. I also can't get a reading for chlorine or chloramines in my tap water. (A new test kit should be here later next week.)

 

[CHOMPERS]

The nitrates from the reactors is almost the same as the prior tests. It appears slightly darker than the other's.

My gravel vac has been misplaced. I had to resort to the one I made for my 250g. But unfortunately I repurposed the hose for other projects. I can't win. I found a section of hose that was long enough, so I was able to clean the gravel. There was only corner that had significant build up, so hopefully that was it. I will be working on installing the drain line tonight. When that's complete, I plan on doing a flush of the system.

 

[CHOMPERS]

This old data port was my target location for drilling through the wall for the overflow plumbing. Unfortunately it has a metal box behind it.
A lower location seems like it will look just fine.

 

[CHOMPERS]

In my experience, I have found that it is easier to drill all the way through the wall with a small drill bit. This guarantees that the inside and outside holes are lined up. If you drill from the inside, the drywall will take less damage.

 

[CHOMPERS]

The exit wound is always larger than the drill bit. This is why you need to start with a smaller bit. Then with the larger bit drill from the outside and inside but only to the center of the wall.

 

[CHOMPERS]

"I love it when a plan comes together."
- Hannibal Smith

I need to get some fittings, so the plumbing will take place tomorrow.

 

[duanes]

My test kit is made by Taylor for the pool industry. It's age is well beyond the expiration date, so errors are expected. I also can't get a reading for chlorine or chloramines in my tap water. (A new test kit should be here later next week.)

I did an experiment not long ago, comparing an expired test kit, with a brand new one.
As you can see, the expiration date on the one above is 2018, the new one below expires in 2026..

Although there are slight difference, the ball park readings hardly differ, at least for pH, and nitrate.
Once a tank is cycled, I barely ever bother with ammonia or nitrite, so I don't know if they are more sensitive to time, or not.

 

[jjohnwm]

"I love it when a plan comes together."
- Hannibal Smith

I need to get some fittings, so the plumbing will take place tomorrow.

Lol, I always get jealous when I see someone who gets to utilize the wonderful properties of gravity to deal with exhaust water from their aquariums. My tanks are almost all in the basement; I need to pump the water out of the ground (well) to supply my house and tanks...and then I need to pump it back up and out of the basement when doing a change. Doesn't matter where it's being delivered, or whence it's being removed...it's always uphill!

Where's that drain water eventually headed?

 

[CHOMPERS]

Duanes, thanks for that comparison. It gives me better faith in my pH tests. I know that my chlorine/chloramine test reagents are bad because they give a reading of zero, but the city water is loaded with it. The hardness reagents are also bad.

John, there is row of rose bushes outside of that wall. However one rose bush will be the sole beneficiary. It should be the most magnificent rose bush in no time.
I may have a solution for your drip system problem. The system will start with a "normally closed" solenoid valve on the water supply. The at rest state of the vavle is closed. This means that when the power to it is off, the water can't flow. You can add a manual switch so that you can run the system when you want. Then, of course, you will need a waste water holding tank with a sump pump. The tank will need a high level float switch wired to the water supply solenoid valve. This is to kill the power to the valve if the tank gets too full (such as a pump failure or frozen pipe).