Need Some Schooling!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Minimal Start-Up:
  • Aragonite sand-- enough to form a 0.5" to 1" layer (unless burrowing fishes are being kept)
  • High quality dry rock-- one pound per gallon or so
  • High quality live rock-- just used for seeding the dry rock; check for parasites and other nuisances
  • Protein skimmer-- not sure on brands for larger ones; be sure to oversize it since it's your most important piece of equipment
  • Sump-- sized accordingly in order to be safe during power outages; just make one from an aquarium; houses protein skimmer and most other equipment
  • Overflows-- make sure that these can handle more flow than your pump
  • Pump-- make sure that this has a lower flow rate than the overflows; plan on 5-10x turnovers an hour, if not more
  • Powerheads-- circulation is very important and helps to prevent dead spots & detritus build-up
  • Lighting-- go for a 50/50 split of high K rated white lights and actinic (blue) lights
  • Heater-- shoot for one that will keep the water at 78°F
  • Salt mix-- I've used the original Instant Ocean and Coralife salt with good results; get enough to get a specific gravity of 1.023 to 1.026
  • Mixing container-- Mix and aerate your saltwater for a few days before using it for water changes; a large Rubbermaid garbage can works nicely
  • Saltwater test kit-- Very important; get one that does at least pH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate
  • Refractometer/hydrometer-- Used for testing salt levels (specific gravity); refractometer is way more accurate than a hydrometer

Please let me know if I missed anything for that list.
 
so even though I am not doing a reef tank a protein skimmer is still a must have? I probably should have made a list of already haves....
Fluval FX5
Rena XP3
3 heaters
2 Air Pumps
2 Light Strips

I am doing my best to keep cost down as much as possible for initial start up... i will be adding as time progresses.
 
You will not need the air pumps.
 
ok well thats good...some things I can sell off to make more money for all the other "crap" I will need to buy. So if I get some live sand and some non live is that a good idea? I am just not looking to hav any fish die off, my selling point to the mrs is that salt is prettier and easier so shes a player...lol;)
 
The differences between saltwater and freshwater fish keeping - MONEY + TIME + KNOWLEDGE, that's basically it. If you can afford large volume weekly W/C's very little is different other than SALT. Freshwater Canisters and Sumps can produce enuff 02 for SW Fish only and is probably the MOST COMMON SW tank setup on the planet. Both ceramic Rings and Bio Balls are capable of housing ammonia + nitrate converting colonies, adding LR will only increase your water filtration as they can, when established, run the entire nitrogen cycle. You don't need T5HO or MH or LED lights to grow B+B - that's totally rediculous. Only time Light may become a factor is the growth of Coraline. Coraline however has nothing to do with the Nitrogen cycle. Alotta FW systems employ the use of Activated Carbon - this method of removing Dissolved protiens from fishtanks PRE-DATES Skimmers by Decades, however Larger volume W/C's negates both - ergo You don't need a Protien skimmer for Fish Only or FOWLR. It wouldn't hurt nor would the use of Carbon.

What is important - Powerheads on opposite sides of the tank pushing water towards each other - Although not mandatory with large pumps or canisters that can turn over 5-8X an hour, they create Turbulance within the tank much like the oceans tides. Salt mixes have ALK stuff added that can fall from suspension with inadequte circulation. This stuff is often times present in FW but nowhere near as abundant. If ALK changes PH changes - large drops in PH or swings can kill fish and/or B+B.

Average salinity of Tropical water is 1.025 or SG of 33-35 ppt however fish are way more resiliant and according to a bunch of others lower salinity is easier on them. You Don't need a PO4 testkilt for Fish Only nor a $50 Refractor - $5 swing arm Hydrometer is fine, Salinity @ 1.021, SG @30 is also fine.

It seems ppl confuse the needs of ornimental inverts like Clams, Corals, and Anemones with the needs of Fish - it's a completely different animal in it's entirity. With these types of critters Light Intensity and range, Salinity, SG, Mag, Alk, Cal, PO4, NO3, TDS, RO/DI, Refractors, Skimmers, Reactors etc... come into play - not with Fish Only - You'll be fine, but research it anyways - don't just take me at my word.
 
I do appreciate the input... that was good information like I said I am getting this setup situated within the next couple of weeks so I am going to keep reading and asking away until I feel confident enough to start aseembling the tank...
 
Now since I have two canister filters XP3 and FX5 if I put one on each side of the tank and aim them at each other would that take the place of powerheads and cover me there?
 
if i opt for arogate sand and some dry rock with a couple pieces of live rock will I still need or require live sand? If not how do i get all the bacterias and the tank up to par?
 
g_morin said:
Now since I have two canister filters XP3 and FX5 if I put one on each side of the tank and aim them at each other would that take the place of powerheads and cover me there?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure on that one. You could always set them up, see if there are any dead spots, and add powerheads if need be; you really can't have too much circulation, though, so it wouldn't hurt to add a few smaller powerheads pointed at the front glass and live rock in order to help keep them algae-free.

g_morin said:
if i opt for arogate sand and some dry rock with a couple pieces of live rock will I still need or require live sand? If not how do i get all the bacterias and the tank up to par?
Click to expand...

No, you don't need live sand if you use live rock; the sand will become live in due time. Besides, the rock does way more when it comes to biological filtration than the sand does.
 
Well thats good so if I get the sand the rock and so on... set up the tank make sure the salt content is up to snuff it takes roughly two weeks or so before adding fish or is it really a crap shoot on time? all i know is marcorocks.com is a great sight for inexpensive sand and rocks if anyone hasnt checked them out!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom