New 180g Tank Mysteries....

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
rhodes_96;4233653; said:
Test the kh / gh of your water.
odds are it's above 6-7 dkh. Two weeks of cycling maybe you need more time. I would re test the water in a few days just to makes sure parameters are still ok
You could try some acid buffering products or some plants and driftwood, and or wait till your bio filtration matures more.
I have bb tanks that the ph always rises maybe 0.1-0.2 after a water change even when the change water has been buffered for more than 24hours. I allow for this in the buffering process so ph is fine and will stay within parameters until my next water change.

So i would need to pick up water hardness test kit then to test kh and gh. What is odd is that this never happened when i had to cycle my 75g tank. Is this a more obvious issue when cycling bigger tanks? with more water???
 
Helangkawi;4233654; said:
is it because of the glasses? i mean the material for that glass some make a chemical effect?

i dont think Glass can transfer anything....

but...

the silicone? maybe? I'm not sure.
 
Bigger tanks can tank longer to setup intially, but generally are easier to maintain and more stable in the long run. I find that having a lot more bio media for a tank than whats required for the bio load helps keep the tank more stable as you have more overhead to compensate if issues occur.
 
what is the test on the tap you get?? what kinda media you have in all your filters?? i have problem with my water that's always drop to 6.0pH so i just add little bit of crush coral into my filter to buffe it up to 7.0 but eventually you would want to change water to keep it at that level.. good luck on it.. i'm heading up to markham area this july 4th weekend if you want to show me what you got.
 
soupa2;4234957; said:
what is the test on the tap you get?? what kinda media you have in all your filters?? i have problem with my water that's always drop to 6.0pH so i just add little bit of crush coral into my filter to buffe it up to 7.0 but eventually you would want to change water to keep it at that level.. good luck on it.. i'm heading up to markham area this july 4th weekend if you want to show me what you got.

The ph from tap is 7.6. The AC 110 has 1 bag of ciramic media and the fluval contains sponge nothing else. The tank is bare there is nothing in the tank except the essentials. I don't know what else to tell u.

I looked at drift wood today and I don't even think 1 or 2 pieces of wood will drop the water all that much anyway. Like I mean I'm looking at an 0.6 dropin ph and for drift to do that I would prob need a lot of drift inside tank.
 
Ya the best advice I can give you is to not worry about the PH. I have had 5 thriving clown loaches for 2 years in a 30 gal and now a 55 gal with a PH of 8.4. I think tablets and PH altering chemicals will only create problems for you and whichever kind of fish you decide to go with.
I understand that the PH of the tap is 7.6 and then the next day is 8.4. but with normal water changes I don't think a 180 gal tank will have the PH altered that much.
Do you leave the tap water in buckets for a day or two? I'm sure you do because you have to dechlorinate it.
Clowns are caught in the wild so many of them (if not all) have ich or some other disease by the time they reach your tank. You may want to try keeping the light off for the first week or so when you get them next time. Any way you can reduce stress!!! Also, don't use any chemicals or salt to treat ich. Raise the heat and airation. You might want to read up on that if you haven't already.
 
Loachin;4238591; said:
Ya the best advice I can give you is to not worry about the PH. I have had 5 thriving clown loaches for 2 years in a 30 gal and now a 55 gal with a PH of 8.4. I think tablets and PH altering chemicals will only create problems for you and whichever kind of fish you decide to go with.
I understand that the PH of the tap is 7.6 and then the next day is 8.4. but with normal water changes I don't think a 180 gal tank will have the PH altered that much.
Do you leave the tap water in buckets for a day or two? I'm sure you do because you have to dechlorinate it.
Clowns are caught in the wild so many of them (if not all) have ich or some other disease by the time they reach your tank. You may want to try keeping the light off for the first week or so when you get them next time. Any way you can reduce stress!!! Also, don't use any chemicals or salt to treat ich. Raise the heat and airation. You might want to read up on that if you haven't already.

Thanks for responding. And no i dont leave buckets of water to sit. I Prime and then airate for about 5 min and then pour into the 180g tank. and tap is 7.6. After WC the 180g tank will be 7.8ish. then in 24hour 8.2+ . I have no idea what the problem is...

The Clown loaches are at the fish store and all 3 survived. they are doing great righ tnow swimming and eating again. the PH at LFS is low like under 7.6 so if i bring them home again in a 8ph enironment i'm afraid they might die on me. or get sick.

DO you think the PH will drop in my 180g?? I"m really considering and thinking about Driftwood at this point.
 
how often do you change water in your 180g? have you tried to let it sit for couple weeks and see if the ph level change again?
 
jp80911;4239215; said:
how often do you change water in your 180g? have you tried to let it sit for couple weeks and see if the ph level change again?

I just top off the 180g tank with primed water after top off the ph becomes 7.6 then goes up back to 8+. I think the longest u've let tank sit about over a week and ph never dropped
 
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