New Concrete Tank Build - planning and research stage
- Thread starter Egon
- Start date
Then geothermal is exactly what you do need. It's not about heat, it's about constant temp.
When they drill, they're not looking for a heat or lava seam. They're looking for a zone of constant temperature. For my dad's place in Canada they drilled to maybe 70m where there's a constant winter-summer temp of maybe 15C. They then pump a fluid (Ammonia, I think) through a pipe into the hole where it ends up that temp, then back at the surface it (fluid) goes through a heat-pump to either heat or cool your house.
Now, be warned- it's annoyingly expensive upfront, so make sure you're seeing the long-road view.
It apparently also has issues with freezing the ground if it's working too hard for too long, but ask your tech about that- my dad put this in 15yrs ago so the technology is bound to have improved.
A
When they drill, they're not looking for a heat or lava seam. They're looking for a zone of constant temperature. For my dad's place in Canada they drilled to maybe 70m where there's a constant winter-summer temp of maybe 15C. They then pump a fluid (Ammonia, I think) through a pipe into the hole where it ends up that temp, then back at the surface it (fluid) goes through a heat-pump to either heat or cool your house.
Now, be warned- it's annoyingly expensive upfront, so make sure you're seeing the long-road view.
It apparently also has issues with freezing the ground if it's working too hard for too long, but ask your tech about that- my dad put this in 15yrs ago so the technology is bound to have improved.
A
What better for water in the tank then water under the tank for temp control? This is one awesome idea of a build. Love this tank idea subscribed
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There semes to be some confusion on concrete reinforcement in here.
Rebar should be thought of only as a way to keep the concrete slabs at the same height when they crack (hopefully in the control joints) the fiberglass mesh will not be capable of this. Wire mesh like posted above is also effective at this though in my opinion to a lesser degree though it doesnt seem to be an issue.
The fiberglass helps control the cracks by reinforcing the concrete and will help to keep it from microfracturing which is of greatest concern on poors where the concrete hardens far too fast. This will also help with getting the concrete to crack where you want it too (control joints)
The rebar and the fiberglass should not be though of as settling reinforcement. The type of poor that is likely to be done in that area is reffered to as slab on grade. It is what was posted in pictures previously, perimeter is thicker and the rest is regular slab and the building built directly on top.
The most important part of this poor to ensure strong concrete and to stop settling issues.
It needs to be excavated to a hard subsoil. This layer needs to be compacted and i reccommend using a "jumping jack" and should be at min. Of 12" below final concrete height.
The next step would be too add in 3/4 crushed gravel this will have all different sizes of aggragate in it ranging from 3/4" rocks to sand. This product gives great compaction and should also be compacted first with a "jumping jack"and done in no more then 6 inch lifts. If it is unpractical to use a "jumping jack" it can be done with a plate compactor but should be done in no more then 3" lifts. Spraying the aggragate with some water will produce some of the best compaction as long as it is not standing as this can produce "pumping". Where the fish tank is proposed i would also go with the same type thickness as the perimeter was poored preferbally 12" thick concrete around the perimeter of the tank.
If your ground is composed of sand or loose soil and no hard subsoil is encountered. (I would go as far as 18" inches or so below original grade in search of this.) It may be advisable to poor piers. Essentially a post hole auger of 12"below inches or better augered Down four feet. These will be poured in with concete floor and have rebar attached to the rest of the slabs rebar. I cant give you any exact layout for these piers as i didnt have to work with them in my area and im unfamiliar with the ground on your site. These will give some deep legs that will keep the concrete slab fom settling farther on one side then the other when you place 60000 lbs. On one spot in the garage.
As far as concrete goes i would say go with 51/2-6 sack with fiberglass and oredr it with a 3"slump and when on sitr go no farther then a 6"slump too much water equalls too much shrinkage. The aggragate in the mix should be of the large variety. Call up the concrete supplier and he should be able to help you with the mix you need.
Rebar should be thought of only as a way to keep the concrete slabs at the same height when they crack (hopefully in the control joints) the fiberglass mesh will not be capable of this. Wire mesh like posted above is also effective at this though in my opinion to a lesser degree though it doesnt seem to be an issue.
The fiberglass helps control the cracks by reinforcing the concrete and will help to keep it from microfracturing which is of greatest concern on poors where the concrete hardens far too fast. This will also help with getting the concrete to crack where you want it too (control joints)
The rebar and the fiberglass should not be though of as settling reinforcement. The type of poor that is likely to be done in that area is reffered to as slab on grade. It is what was posted in pictures previously, perimeter is thicker and the rest is regular slab and the building built directly on top.
The most important part of this poor to ensure strong concrete and to stop settling issues.
It needs to be excavated to a hard subsoil. This layer needs to be compacted and i reccommend using a "jumping jack" and should be at min. Of 12" below final concrete height.
The next step would be too add in 3/4 crushed gravel this will have all different sizes of aggragate in it ranging from 3/4" rocks to sand. This product gives great compaction and should also be compacted first with a "jumping jack"and done in no more then 6 inch lifts. If it is unpractical to use a "jumping jack" it can be done with a plate compactor but should be done in no more then 3" lifts. Spraying the aggragate with some water will produce some of the best compaction as long as it is not standing as this can produce "pumping". Where the fish tank is proposed i would also go with the same type thickness as the perimeter was poored preferbally 12" thick concrete around the perimeter of the tank.
If your ground is composed of sand or loose soil and no hard subsoil is encountered. (I would go as far as 18" inches or so below original grade in search of this.) It may be advisable to poor piers. Essentially a post hole auger of 12"below inches or better augered Down four feet. These will be poured in with concete floor and have rebar attached to the rest of the slabs rebar. I cant give you any exact layout for these piers as i didnt have to work with them in my area and im unfamiliar with the ground on your site. These will give some deep legs that will keep the concrete slab fom settling farther on one side then the other when you place 60000 lbs. On one spot in the garage.
As far as concrete goes i would say go with 51/2-6 sack with fiberglass and oredr it with a 3"slump and when on sitr go no farther then a 6"slump too much water equalls too much shrinkage. The aggragate in the mix should be of the large variety. Call up the concrete supplier and he should be able to help you with the mix you need.
Slab on grade is meant to be used in areas where there is minimal settling issuse and no frost. The down side of slab on grade is that they are highly susceptible to cracking thats why control joints are so important when using them. The rebar or wire mesh does help to reduce heaving but it is intended use is to keep the cracks from opening and expanding. Concrete shrinks and expands theres no way around cracking in large slabs, it will eventually crack. This is knowledge from 16 years of commercial concrete work, nothing I just pulled out fo my......
#1 to that. Something we always have said in the trade is " there are two things you can always garauntee about concrete, its gonna get hard and it's gonna crack."
