New tank 84x36x24 ... Time for a Stand build!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
the leaving it loose aspect is to prevent the screw heads from coming into contact with the tank. You don't want to rest the tank on just the plywood with screws into it. You might be okay with recessed but you never know how it'll settle.
 
Alright. I did all the measurements for support and crossbrace placement tonight (except on one bottom 4x4 piece since we have to cut it again). Getting the other 4x4 piece on tuesday and cutting it, and hopefully the plywood. Once all pieces are cut and ready, we will begin sanding and staining everything in all but connect spots which I have marked off.

That is Tuesday's plan. Not sure if we will get around to staining but hopefully we will. Next step will be putting together the bottom frame and all the walls.

After measuring, I have found that the planned 75 gallon tank can slide through the opening of the side, but will have to maneuver everything into place together in order to get things to fit ... 7 foot 1 inch room and a 7 foot tank and all.

And then I will be setting up temporary kiddie pool for a majority of my fish as I get the 125 out of the house, set up the sump, and await the arrival of the new tank.
 
Why do you need to drill the 75 to make a wet/dry? Are you planning to use an external pump? My 320 ray tank is filtered by a wet/dry I threw together in about 20 minutes from a 30L tank using submersible pumps. No drilling.

Not that a 75 will be tempered on the sides anyway.
 
Hope you're right! I did the test using computer LCD screen and polarized sunglasses and it looks like the 60, 75, and 125 tanks I have are all not tempered... I thought bigger tanks normally are. Mayne the test didn't work... but time will tell!

Either way I wont have the drip system set up initially... need to get the tank drilled with bulkhead ... therefore making it an overflow prevention system for power outages.... how will I know what water height to drill for?
 
For "overflow protection", drilling your hole at the top of the sump makes most sense. Although realistically no sump should be capable of overflowing when the power is out - the only way that could happen would be if the water level during "normal" powered operation was already too high in the sump.

The water level in my 30L is at about 1/3 when the pumps are running and 2/3 when they're off so there's never any overflow potential. In a 75 gal sump the difference in water levels will be even less.

If you're planning a continuous drip system in the future, you may want to consider turning your sump into a bioreactor (if you haven't already) - they work with the water level full, which is what you'd have if you set up a drip system.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com