Ummm...that pretty much sums it up. But don't assume or expect single pass efficiency. I'd proclaim it a success if it will just lower the nitrates. It would be nice to have single pass efficiency but don't use it as the measuring stick for the success of the filter. You can work toward that goal later if you want. Most systems don't operate on single pass efficiency and they don't really need to since the water will come back around next time for a second treatment. For now, the best measure is what is happening to the nitrates in your test tank. Btw, you should be letting a tank go without water changes and giving heavy feedings to get the nitrates up.Jgray152;2894185; said:
Nitrate Filter
- Thread starter Jgray152
- Start date
My 55 gallon Mbuna tank has some heavy nitrates so no worry there. Well, don't worry about me not having a test tank that is (backpedal). I feed my Mbunas pretty heavy as well. 3-4 times in the morning and at night. They never stop eating.
can you give me some helpfull advice on how this works?
reason is i have been looking at one of these and hooking it up to a pump. i dont really want a high flow rate too high cause i was just thinking of running it about 1 week out of each month.
i was going with something like this. http://www.purewateressentials.com/ct-00159.html
reason is i have been looking at one of these and hooking it up to a pump. i dont really want a high flow rate too high cause i was just thinking of running it about 1 week out of each month.
i was going with something like this. http://www.purewateressentials.com/ct-00159.html
vaine111;2896195; said:
Save your money. It looks like something got lost in the translation from the R&D dept. to the Marketing dept.
CaCO3 is calcium carbonate, a compound independent of nitrates. It is designed to remove calcium carbonate (water softening)instead of nitrates (NO3-). From the chart, it appears that it only removes nitrates when it is removing calcium carbonate. The tech data is here:
http://www.purewateressentials.com/cq-100.html
The resin looks to be nothing more than Purigen resin beads. You can save a ton of money by just using Purigen.
Sounds like you wanted to know how "my" nitrate filter works?
Mine is based off of a biological denitrification process. The bacteria group is called anaerobic bacteria. They live in anoxic conditions, meaning there is no oxygen present. Anaerobic bacteria use nitrate as an energy source and carbon as a food source. This is unlike the aerobic bacteria which use oxygen as an energy source and ammonia or nitrite as a food source. This is what I understand anyways through reserach.
There are chemical ways of removing nitrate which are probubly much easier than trying to cultivate the proper bacteria. If you search on Drsfostersmith you will probubly find chemical media with resins that I believe absorb nitrates. Some can be "recharged" by soaking them in salt water for a specific amount of time.
I tested the head height of the filter again and I was able to achive a max of 23". This was the point when there were drips coming from the seal of the canister. 20 inches is a safe height without it leaking. This was after the slight mod.
I fixed the fitting that was leaking too. New seal and teflon tape proved worthy.
I fixed the fitting that was leaking too. New seal and teflon tape proved worthy.
Some more pictures.
The rubber washer used is actually NOT 1/2" ID. Its 3/8" ID I believe. Tighter fit.
The poly tubing used was a bit to large but was the only size that would fit snug. So I heated the end up to make it soft, I then gently go the end into the barb fitting and forced it in as far as it would go.
1/2" drill bit made for a perfect sized hole.
To allow the washer to seal and not get squeezed out as easily when tightening. Make sure you spin the barb fitting to screw it into the PVC adaptor. Do not spin the PVC adaptor or the washer will easily squeeze out.
The rubber washer used is actually NOT 1/2" ID. Its 3/8" ID I believe. Tighter fit.
The poly tubing used was a bit to large but was the only size that would fit snug. So I heated the end up to make it soft, I then gently go the end into the barb fitting and forced it in as far as it would go.
1/2" drill bit made for a perfect sized hole.
To allow the washer to seal and not get squeezed out as easily when tightening. Make sure you spin the barb fitting to screw it into the PVC adaptor. Do not spin the PVC adaptor or the washer will easily squeeze out.
Not knockin' ya or anything, but...Jgray152;2900377; said:
Head is expressed in height (inches or feet). So you are testing it at 20 inches of head.
Pressure is expressed in psi, not pounds. The pressure is .72 psi.
What you are calling pressure is actually just 'force'. There isn't anything more descriptive in layman's terms, but in Physics and Engineering the term really is Force. There is 18 pounds of Force exerted on the lid.
