Odd Mbu Behavior

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I link to articles at my forum because I do not have the author's permission to post them elsewhere. Considering we have the world's top long-term pufferkeepers & scientists posting there & publishing articles, I'll stick with their experienced advice.
 
PP-

Seriouisly.... Can you tell me what your rule of thumb would be as far as upgrades? My lil buggers are about ready for thier first upgrade. I assume there would be an overall length of the fish compared to tank width formula.....

I can start a new thread if needed.

My lil guys are getting close to 2 inches. They are growing at an alarming rate being fed 2-3 times a day. Not really eating anything but bloodworms and occasional shrimp and wiggler nibbles.

Need to be enlightened on the teeth side of things as well. Do they need teeth dulling foods from the get go or is there a certain size to wait for them to hit before the diet needs to be impacted by teeth dulling foods or do MBUs even require special foods to dull?
 
Clay;4811960; said:
This is almost exclusive to the puffer forum. I see the "you'll stunt that fish if you don't give it a 1000g" explanation at every turn. Unfortunately (as I've stated before), people tend to regurgitate information based on opinion without realistically looking at the reasons.

While I agree that the fish grows to a large size (26.4" TL on fishbase) and requires a large volume of water, the CONSTANT lack of evidence other than conjecture is disheartening.

And while I respect PP's opinion and specialized attention to puffers, I don't think "wait for PP to get here and explain it" is a valid response. Many times, PP references her own site articles (nothing wrong with that, I guess), but if the information was brought into the MFK environment, they may be scrutinized a bit more and a good dialogue would be healthy.


I have a Fahaka. It was in a 55 for a few months while I setup his 150. He barely grew in the 55. Once in the 150, he added a good 3" in the first 2 months. This is why I think small tanks stunt young puffers. From experience. EXPERIENCE, in case you missed that.

People on the Puffer Forum know a lot more about puffers and their care/growth than you. Just admit it. People reference that site, cause it's the best source of puffer information around. Stop arguing with scientists (yes, some of them are) that obviously know a lot more than you.
 
Pufferpunk;4812048; said:
I link to articles at my forum because I do not have the author's permission to post them elsewhere. Considering we have the world's top long-term pufferkeepers & scientists posting there & publishing articles, I'll stick with their experienced advice.


People will argue, no matter what. It's kinda funny.
 
PP--didn't have time to get another test kit. Working late. Did make a 40% wc last night and 20% before I left for work this morning. The mbu is not as "drunk" but still a little clumsy. I believe I found the cause for the nitrite spike: clogged XP3 filter pad. The flow rate was reduced to probably 1/4 of the original flow. I changed that pad out but kept the rest of the bio media in tact.

So how long do the poisoning symptoms last?
Also, is it going to affect the long term health of the fish?

Finally, I have 175g community tank that has been established for 5 years--stocked heavily with plecos, severums, cory cats,clown loaches, fire eel, roseline barbs, rainbows, etc. If the water parameters there measure out better (I know they will), would placing the mbu in there be an option? I'm not sure how good he would be competing for food but at least he would have more room with better conditions. Also, compatability would be a concern. I guess what I am asking is if I place the fish in a tank with better water quality, will the poisoning symptoms go away more quickly?

Thanks for your help!
 
I have never kept a mbu, I would never have the room of floor supports for a tank large enough. This is why I refer to folks who have kept them successfully, at my forum. There aren't many... We have a vendor at my forum selling 2 & no one there has even responded, because everyone there knows the housing requirements.

I would be feeding crunchy foods from the get go.
 
KH, I think you need to continue doing large, daily WC. The fact your puffer is acting more normal with SW, means there is something off with your parameters. Try to get that test kit today. Keep a better eye on your filters & add a few more (I have 4 on my 125g fahaka tank).
 
Pufferpunk;4812160; said:
KH, I think you need to continue doing large, daily WC. The fact your puffer is acting more normal with SW, means there is something off with your parameters. Try to get that test kit today. Keep a better eye on your filters & add a few more (I have 4 on my 125g fahaka tank).

"SW"?

Not woking late today so I am going to get a different test kit this evening. I do have a spare canister filter I can use, just have to get some media for it...
 
Pufferpunk;4812128; said:
We have a vendor at my forum selling 2 & no one there has even responded

Probally becouse they cant be asked becouse you would be all other them talking about tank size and intimidating them.
 
No one is intimidated by me at my forum. I have much respect everywhere I go (except from folks who refuse intelligent, experienced advice). The folks at my forum know the proper housing requirements & so they don't attempt purchasing these fish.
Sorry, sometimes I type too quickly. Forgot to check that one. Meant WC, not SW.
 
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