Garter snakes
- average between 2-3 ft
- will eat fish, worms, insects, amphibians as well as rodents.
- very hardy and tolerant of cooler temps than most herps
- downside: most are very highstrung and may musk/bite, although some can tame down nicely
Water snakes
- average 3-4 ft
- will eat fish and amphibians
- similar care to garters
- very nasty dispositions, but being diurnal, can make very nice display snakes in a naturalistic set-up
Rough green snakes
- 2-3 ft
- very docile and excellent display snakes in naturalistic vivaria
- downside: 99.9% of all RGSs are wildcaught and therefore, heavily parasitised; as a result, they rarely want to eat in captivity and often die
- if the above issues are resolved, they eat crickets, and other insects
Glass (legless) lizards (I know, they're not really snakes, but just read on...)
- average between 3-4 ft
- usually quite hardy
- eats insects, canned lizard food, and eggs
- sometimes highstrung, but rarely bites; can tame down with regular handling
- downside: requires a fairly roomy cage (at least a 40 gall breeder)
There are many other types of snakes that will accept amphibians and lizards for food, but most people do not have a regular supply of such prey year-round, not to mention its pricey. If you're looking for a smallish snake that doesn't require rodent prey, then the options I listed above are all decent beginner choices (except perhaps the green snake).
Of course, you were able to overlook the rodent thing, then there's the choices most everyone has already listed, and then some:
cornsnakes, ratsnakes, kingsnakes, milksnakes, house snakes, hognose snakes, ball pythons, children's pythons, spotted pythons, rosy boas, sand boas, etc
- average between 2-3 ft
- will eat fish, worms, insects, amphibians as well as rodents.
- very hardy and tolerant of cooler temps than most herps
- downside: most are very highstrung and may musk/bite, although some can tame down nicely
Water snakes
- average 3-4 ft
- will eat fish and amphibians
- similar care to garters
- very nasty dispositions, but being diurnal, can make very nice display snakes in a naturalistic set-up
Rough green snakes
- 2-3 ft
- very docile and excellent display snakes in naturalistic vivaria
- downside: 99.9% of all RGSs are wildcaught and therefore, heavily parasitised; as a result, they rarely want to eat in captivity and often die
- if the above issues are resolved, they eat crickets, and other insects
Glass (legless) lizards (I know, they're not really snakes, but just read on...)
- average between 3-4 ft
- usually quite hardy
- eats insects, canned lizard food, and eggs
- sometimes highstrung, but rarely bites; can tame down with regular handling
- downside: requires a fairly roomy cage (at least a 40 gall breeder)
There are many other types of snakes that will accept amphibians and lizards for food, but most people do not have a regular supply of such prey year-round, not to mention its pricey. If you're looking for a smallish snake that doesn't require rodent prey, then the options I listed above are all decent beginner choices (except perhaps the green snake).
Of course, you were able to overlook the rodent thing, then there's the choices most everyone has already listed, and then some:
cornsnakes, ratsnakes, kingsnakes, milksnakes, house snakes, hognose snakes, ball pythons, children's pythons, spotted pythons, rosy boas, sand boas, etc
