Parasite, disease or something else?

[Eric1115]

Have you tested your water?

Yes

If yes, what is your ammonia?

0

If yes, what is your nitrite?

0

If yes, what is your nitrate?

5

If I did not test my water...

1. ...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.

Do you do water changes?

Yes

What percentage of water do you change?

51-60%

How frequently do you change your water?

Every week

If I do not change my water...

1. ...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.

Hi
Need some suggestions and help. My haps started flashing a lot this past two days. I do not see any white spot on any of the fish.
I did a water change yesterday also. Water parameter are all good.

I did remove a lot of the rocks and replaced them with fake plants I just got. So that looks like triggered the tank to went into a reshuffle of hierarchy and aggressions.

I did also accidentally used another python that I normally use for other tanks for water change. I started see some flashing yesterday and a lot more today.

My questions are

1. Can the flashing be due to the removal of rocks and addition of the fake plants?
2. The fish are still afraid of the plants so they are limiting their swimming space due to avoiding the plants I think. Can this be stressing them out and causing the flashing?
3. I did washed the fake plants but not sure if they could have brought something into the tank? Should I do another water change?
4. Using the wrong python could possibly introduce ich, should I treat for ich if I don't see any white spot? I am thinking not but wanted to see what other think.
5. Anything other suggestions

Thanks

 

[kno4te]

Flashing could be from water changes, behavior, poor water quality, or parasite/infection. Don’t think it’s from ur plants. If no obvious sign of infection or ich (external parasite) then I’d watch for now. Keep the water clean.

 

[BIG-G]

I would think if it were a contamination from another python you would have seen ich in the other tank.
I also doubt that the fake plant would be the issue.
Especially if the plants are designed for aquarium use.
Are they? Or are they something different? Like from a craft store or something.
My guess is the water change.
Do you use municipal water source?

 

[Eric1115]

The plants are for aquarium, I ordered from EliteCichlid. I do use municipal water source, but have been using it for years and do 50% WC twice per week.

I will keep monitor the fish then.
Thank you to both of you

 

[BIG-G]

The plants are for aquarium, I ordered from EliteCichlid. I do use municipal water source, but have been using it for years and do 50% WC twice per week.

I will keep monitor the fish then.
Thank you to both of you

Municipal water is subject to change and most times without notice.
I think duanes has worked in that field.

 

[duanes]

Did you use a dechlorinator after or during the water change?

If your water source is very stable, a lake such Lake Michigan, Tahoe, Superior, or some other large permanent lake, there is less chance of much seasonal disruption. But even those can require a boost in chlorination at certain times orf year (especially spring)
If your suppliers source is a river, or small reservoir there is a chance that a thaw has required them to add much more than the average amount or chlorine or chloramine to keep water potable, which could account for disinfectant induced flashing.
Even if your source is "ground water", seasonal thaws can also effect water parameters.
When I lived in the U.S. my water source was Lake Michigan.
During winter, little Chloramine was required, so I barely used a dechorinator.
Spring Chloramine levels could be at 2ppm. (during this time, I made sure my dechlorinator dose was adequate for each water change)
The rest of the year, 1-1.5ppm chloramine required moderate dechlorination.
These chlorine concentration numbers were easily found on my water suppliers web site.
There is also a chance that a main break occurred somewhere down the line from where you live, and a portion of the distribution system had to be shocked, causing a temporary spike in chlorine.
I often checked myself to see what was coming from my tap, leaving nothing to chance.

Any of the above scenarios could or "not be" the cause.
You say you removed a lot of rock work, this rock work could have contained many colonies of beneficial bacteria, and removing a large number of decor can induce a mini-cycle and a spike in ammonia that would cause flashing.
It could take weeks for the fake plants to build up enough colonies take up the slack

 

[Eric1115]

Did you use a dechlorinator after or during the water change?

If your water source is very stable, a lake such Lake Michigan, Tahoe, Superior, or some other large permanent lake, there is less chance of much seasonal disruption. But even those can require a boost in chlorination at certain times orf year (especially spring)
If your suppliers source is a river, or small reservoir there is a chance that a thaw has required them to add much more than the average amount or chlorine or chloramine to keep water potable, which could account for disinfectant induced flashing.
Even if your source is "ground water", seasonal thaws can also effect water parameters.
When I lived in the U.S. my water source was Lake Michigan.
During winter, little Chloramine was required, so I barely used a dechorinator.
Spring Chloramine levels could be at 2ppm. (during this time, I made sure my dechlorinator dose was adequate for each water change)
The rest of the year, 1-1.5ppm chloramine required moderate dechlorination.
These chlorine concentration numbers were easily found on my water suppliers web site.
There is also a chance that a main break occurred somewhere down the line from where you live, and a portion of the distribution system had to be shocked, causing a temporary spike in chlorine.
I often checked myself to see what was coming from my tap, leaving nothing to chance.

Any of the above scenarios could or "not be" the cause.
You say you removed a lot of rock work, this rock work could have contained many colonies of beneficial bacteria, and removing a large number of decor can induce a mini-cycle and a spike in ammonia that would cause flashing.
It could take weeks for the fake plants to build up enough colonies take up the slack

Hi
It’s NYC Water, I did a 50% WC on last Friday and no flashing. Then I did a 50% WC this Monday and replaced some of the rocks with the plants. I have a sump with a lot of media in it, not sure if the rocks will impact the BB. I did a water test with API master kit Monday night after removing the rocks and all was good. I will do a water test again to see if any ammonia or nitrite. I had ich in the tank a month ago and treated and have not see any flashing until past two days.

I do not see any flashing in my other tanks, however, I never treated them for ich.

As of this morning still flashing and no white spot or anything. I am schedule to do another WC in two days, wonder if I should just do it now.

Thank you for your help

 

[Eric1115]

Sorry forgot to mentioned, I use Safe with my WC and I usually dose more than needed.

 

[Eric1115]

Water parameter looks good, didn’t do nitrate cause I just did one two days ago before WC and it was only 10. My nitrate is usually 10 within 4 days and I do WC.

 

[Eric1115]

I just remember there was one more thing I changed on Monday. I reposition all my Powerbeats and their direction so the water flow is definitely different and I am sure the fish need to adjust to that. I wonder if that can stress them can cause the flashing.