Plywood or no plywood

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Some products from Dap have a very high compressive strength compared to the 2psi deadload of a typical aquarium. Some never set up at all.

You need to use the correct filler for the task.
 
Some products from Dap have a very high compressive strength compared to the 2psi deadload of a typical aquarium. Some never set up at all.

You need to use the correct filler for the task.

How are you calculating a "dead-load" on a 125 gallon tank?
(by definition an aquarium is a live-load)

Did you factor in the load is berring on just the frame?
It is not a fully distributed load.

I have used Dap products for many years - none of them have the load strength of a composite shim per square inch. :cheers:
 
:eek3:Should be 20 psi , not 2 psi.
2 psi was a typo, and I thank you for catching that.

My 125 will weigh ~1500 lbs distributed over ~80 in sq or ~20 psi
The profile of the rim isn't 100% flat in section, but that's close enough.

Regarding fillers, of course solid bearing beats anything elastic. DAP Plastic-Wood has no real tensile strength, but compressive strength is equal to wood. They make over 50 products, so I should be specific, but ther are a number which would work.

I won't argue about how you'd like to calculate things. The tank is DL and the water is LL, and if you want to diddle with the calculations for fun go ahead. How you treat them individually depends on the analytical philosophy you choose, and such things come and go with time.
 
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Well seems like no matter what I do I can't get rid of the gap in the middle of the tank. All 4 corners are being supported now, but 70% of the back has a 1/32 to 1/16 gap. I'm almost at the end of my rope. Getting ready to return tank and tank my saw to the stand. When I shim the back corner it makes the tank unlevel in that corner. It's high. When I put my 4' level on the stand without the tank it's level. I don't know if I'm being to snap and it will be fine the way it is but I'm pulling my hair out over this. It's in my living room and can't be moved to my basement so it would be almost impossible to sand this thing like crazy. Don't know what to do. Getting to the point where this isn't fun anymore
 
You can only rough-level the stand of an empty tank. Things always change a little when you fill them.

Have you put any water in it yet?

What is your floor construction?

The tank may have some camber built in by chance, and a tiny amount is acceptable. The stand won't be 100% flat. Your floor won't either. The tank itself needs to be leveled on the stand with a load in the tank, if you want it perfect.

Don't put more than 1" or 2" of water in and look to see how it all settles out, because it will.

The more water you add to the tank, the more tank, stand, and floor will conform to each other.

Do the gaps disappear? I put things under the edges to see if there's a gap. A 0.0015" brass feeler gage is useful. cellophane is too.

When you have 2" of water the gaps should close and the tank should level out. If not, then you decide what to shim or fix.
 
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The corners are fine, but I don't think the gaps will disappear with water. To big. Everytime I try to shim the back then the back corner that I fixed with shims gets worse. If all 4 corners are good I might just move on. I'm going to drive myself crazy with this. Maybe tomorrow I'll put some water in and see what happens with the way it is now [with gaps Along back] . On your DIY stands that you have built do your paint the inside?
 
I don't use 2x4s. Mostly oak or maple cabinet-type construction.

I would treat all the wood with something to waterproof it. Any kind of oil, stain, sealer, or paint would be better than nothing. Ordinary house paint would be fine.
 
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Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully the tank will hold with the 4 corners being 100% supported
 
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