Plywood tank

[psychemjr]

Sorry for the long delay in updates. I have been doing more research and I decided to go bigger. The tank I built is sitting in the garage unfinished doubled as a work bench.
The new tank is going to end up being a reef tank. I have been buying bits of equipment over the last few months. I have the lighting 3 400w halide in luminarc reflectors and 2 250W DE halides. 4 Tunze streams and 2 Dart pumps for flow. I am still taking the room that the tank is going into apart. The tank is going to be 96"x30"x60" I will be using .75" glass. Finally got a new camera so I could take some pics of the build when I finally start it

 

[mike7587]

Dont take mt word for it but being 60" tall I would use atleast 1" Glass

Just my opinion...

 

[Danyal]

i think he is saying that it's going to be 30" tall, even 400w MH will have a really hard time lighting up 5' of water for corals.

 

[mbutzer]

Question 3 Drywall srews of outdoor screws?

Don't use drywall screws. They are prone to weakening when you use a drill or power driver to torque them down. I've had the heads shear off the screws just as they get seated into the wood. You can buy piece of mind with some liftime guaranteed no-rust exterior screws. I just bought 5lbs for about $20.

 

[wizzin]

you should call UGL and ask them about using drylok in a submerged environment long term. I was planning on using drylok, and I called them. They said that they actually don't suggest using drylok in a tank liner environment. I know "The Fish Guy" did and it's working, but I just wouldn't trust it long term. I went with sanitred. Yes it's more expensive, but it also has a lifetime guarentee. Sanitred actually stands by their product in this type of application, and even has detailed instructions on how to build a plywood fish tank. Bite the bullet and buy the good stuff. I just ordered mine last week, and it was $250 including shipping to build a 10'x4'x4' tank. I don't think that's bad at all for the insurance alone! IMHO.