Project: ZERO Nitrate

[johnptc]

the koi thread is a must read.........if its correct the bottom line is a well design trickle tower with bioballs removes nitrates.......can it be that simple ????

they seem to have done a lot of work on it..........would like to hear on mfk from someone who uses a trickle tower to remove nitrates !!!!!!!!!!!11

I found this thread on a koi forum. It looks like a mod to a wet/dry filter. I haven't tried it so I can't answer any questions. Here's the link: wet/dry mod

If you try it let us know how it worked out for you.

BTW don't derail it with, "I don't think it will work because..." without trying it first. Thanks for reading.

 

[wizzin]

I read that koi thread a while ago. Just a good piece of advice to everyone here, look into the Koi stuff!!! The big buggers parallel our monsters in terms of keeping. The filtration techniques these guys have been using is perfect for our big stuff. I think on some of the tanks we have, you have to look at ponds as the source for filtration etc. The information on biomedia req'd for koi revolves around feeding, which is what I think we have to look at for our monsters too. The rules of thumb for 55gal tanks just fall down.

I just want to share this as I about busted a nut reading this thread. My friend says that everytime you have something wrong with you, it's DSB. Meaning Dreaded, Sem...., buildup.

I know this would fall under refugium, but has anyone used red mangroves?

Lastly, Jardiniboy, can you post a little more info on your setup? How does it work? How is it working?

 

[JardiniBoy]

I am trying something simular, I have stackable trays in my overflow compartment filled with 4 kgs of bio max, a gallon of ehfi substrat, and 4 kg's of seachem matrix, I diverted a small amount of the water through it. It may have some effect on nitrates
( only be using it for 3 weeks now), like the Bakki Shower systemhttp://www.makc.com/bakki.pdf which reduces nitrates, by oxygen rich ammonia removal. There are many ways to reduce nitrates, the hard part is finding a way that makes a difference and is economical. Ponds that use the bakki shower overflow 10% water daily, and using the shower nitrates are undetecable, very immpressive for a koi pond. I agree using tech like this and the other post fsc46 put up, you can use some of this info to build something small and effiecent, That Works.

Anyone else got ideas or info.

I've also been thinking of doing a smaller version of a Bakki Shower with Bacteria House in my overflow. They claim you don't even need to pre-filter with wool ... just raw water gushing onto the BH. It would be quite easy to accomplish in a normal overflow, but it is quite.

 

[JardiniBoy]

Lastly, Jardiniboy, can you post a little more info on your setup? How does it work? How is it working?

Hey bro

I have a 6.5x2x2 display tank with a 4' sump. Water to the sump via an underflow/overflow system with 5 layers of wool/foam and bioballs in the overflow compartment. More foam, ceramic biomedia and coral chips in the sump.

There are 2 coil denitrators running from the sump that have been set up for a few months, and I've just installed a RDSB.

The water looks good. The display tank is always clean ... sh1t and debris sucked from the bottom by the underflow, surface skimmed by the overflow and no bubbles collecting from the top. The fish all look great and eat well.

I bought my first test kit last week ... nitrate! Tested my tank water and there is a considerable amount of nitrate. On the chart, the color for 20, 50 and 100ppm is almost the same and similar to the color I got (but not the same) so I'm not sure exactly what it is ... still need some more practice with it. The one denitrator's output looks the same as the main tank's, but the other's looked lighter.

It's a Nutrafin test kit by Hagen ... does anyone have any recommendations for using this kit?

Thanks!

 

[johnptc]

YOU HAVE FOUND THE SAME THING I FOUND.....YOU NEED WATER CHANGES....I CHANGE ALOT OF WATER TO HOLD THE NITRATES AT 20 PPM....MORE REASON TO FIGURE THE NITRATE REMOVAL BY FILTER !!!

I AM IMPRESSED WITH THE RESULTS CLAIMED BY THE KOI KEEPERS......

Hey bro

I have a 6.5x2x2 display tank with a 4' sump. Water to the sump via an underflow/overflow system with 5 layers of wool/foam and bioballs in the overflow compartment. More foam, ceramic biomedia and coral chips in the sump.

There are 2 coil denitrators running from the sump that have been set up for a few months, and I've just installed a RDSB.

The water looks good. The display tank is always clean ... sh1t and debris sucked from the bottom by the underflow, surface skimmed by the overflow and no bubbles collecting from the top. The fish all look great and eat well.

I bought my first test kit last week ... nitrate! Tested my tank water and there is a considerable amount of nitrate. On the chart, the color for 20, 50 and 100ppm is almost the same and similar to the color I got (but not the same) so I'm not sure exactly what it is ... still need some more practice with it. The one denitrator's output looks the same as the main tank's, but the other's looked lighter.

It's a Nutrafin test kit by Hagen ... does anyone have any recommendations for using this kit?

Thanks!

 

[JardiniBoy]

Why are you shouting bro?

As I have said above ... I know about changing water and do it every week. I'm not trying to get out of water changes, I just want to control nitrates some other way so that I can do smaller weekly water changes and thus have a more stable system.

 

[johnptc]

me too !!!!!! thats why this is a great thread

Why are you shouting bro?

As I have said above ... I know about changing water and do it every week. I'm not trying to get out of water changes, I just want to control nitrates some other way so that I can do smaller weekly water changes and thus have a more stable system.

 

[FishSkins]

The significance of nitrates in the aquarium is arguably less understood by fish keepers than the effect of ammonia and nitrites. Although nitrates are not directly lethal in the way ammonia or nitrites are, over time high levels of nitrate have a negative effect on fish, plants and the aquarium environment in general.

Effects on Fish
Fish will feel the impact of nitrates by the time the levels reach 100 ppm, particularly if levels remain there. The resulting stress leaves the fish more susceptible to disease and inhibits their ability to reproduce. High nitrate levels are especially harmful to fry and young fish, and will affect their growth. Furthermore, conditions that cause elevated nitrates often cause decreased oxygen levels, which further stress the fish.

Other Effects
Elevated nitrates are a significant contributor to undesirable algae growth.


Nitrate levels as low as 10 ppm will promote algae growth. Algae blooms in newly setup tanks are usually due to elevated nitrate levels. Although plants utilize nitrates, if nitrates rise faster than the plants can use them, the plants can become overgrown with algae, ultimately leading to their demise.

Where Do Nitrites Come From?
Nitrates are a by-product of nitrite conjugation during the latter stages of the nitrogen cycle, and will be present in some degree in all aquariums. Detritus, decaying plant material, dirty filters, over-feeding, and over-stocking the tank, all contribute to increased production of nitrates.

Water used to fill the aquarium often has nitrates in it. In the United States, drinking water may have nitrates as high as 40 ppm. Before adding water to your tank test, it for nitrates so you know if the levels are unusually high in your water source. If nitrates are above 10 ppm, you should consider other water sources that are free of nitrates.

Desired Level
In nature nitrates remain very low, generally well below 5 ppm. In freshwater aquariums nitrates should be kept below 50 pm at all times, preferably below 25 ppm. If you are breeding fish, or are battling algae growth, keep nitrates below 10 ppm.

How to Reduce Nitrates
Unlike ammonia and nitrites, the bacteria that remove nitrates do not like oxygen rich environments. Therefore, conventional filters do not harbor the bacteria that remove nitrates. Although special filters exist that will remove nitrates, such devices are usually expensive compared to other filtration units.


Keep the tank clean – Waste ultimately produces nitrates. Cleaner tanks produce fewer nitrates in the first place.


Don’t overfeed the fish – Overfeeding is a significant contributor to excess nitrates and other undesirable wastes, such as phosphates.


Water changes – Performing regular water changes with water that has little or no nitrates will lower the overall nitrate level in the tank. RO/DI water is an excellent choice for keeping nitrate levels low.


Keep live plants – Live plants utilize nitrates, and will help keep nitrates in check.


Use nitrogen removing filter media – Instead of an expensive denitrator or special filter, use special media in the filter you have. Although they will not lower nitrates dramatically, if used together with other methods the net result will be beneficial.
i did this just because it's there !

 

[wizzin]

Um. Didn't you just copy paste that from here: http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/watercare/a/nitrates.htm

????

 

[skiwez]

I've been following this thread and doing some of my own research and have a question. I've read on several sites that plants help reduce nitrates, but have also read the opposite that while plants are beneficial to a tank they have little affect on nitrate uptake. Is it possible that the reason nitrates go down on a planted tank is because they generally have a fairly deep subtrate where the anarobic bacteria could live?