Quarantine New Fish

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At what solution would you use bleach? I'd like to know what is safe and how to rinse properly.
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I don't know the exact correct ratio, but I'm sure one can find out via google. Neutralize with water conditioner, Prime, Safe, Sodium Thiosulfate, whatever is easiest to get your hands on.
 
RD. said:
Steve - I don't see the small amount of extra effort being described as such a BIG thing? So instead of 2-3 weeks, a person goes 6-8, and for the final weeks one adds some tank water/bacteria from the main tank. So what? I don't get what the big deal is? What Rocksor & Duane laid out is an AWESOME manner in which to teach hobbyists to QT new fish, and from experience some of us can state that it can sometimes prove to be a lifesaver, not just for the new fish, but potentially for the entire fish room. Your only argument is that you haven't experienced this first hand, so it must not be required. Where's the logic in that?

It seems like the term biosecurity is not well understood by some. This is huge in the ornamental fish industry - do a bit of research, you might be surprised at what you learn.
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I'm not saying it is a "big deal" to me I'm simply saying some people seem to like to over complicate things and it is not needed the majority of the time. I'm not just basing it on my own exp either. As I mentioned I'm very active in the Michigan Cichlid association and through out our whole club of hundreds of active members I honestly can not tell you one person that QT's for more than about 3 week max. And these are guys that have been in the hobby breeding and selling all across the country for decades. I'm not trying to come across as "well I'm part of this so it's right" or anything, just letting you know what I was talking about with Qt is not just based on my own exp, it's based on the exp of many many year of fellow club members.

Maybe the species you keep are different when it comes to illness, but for me (90% of my fish are cichlids) there are a few main diseases that are common, Ich, bloat, gill flukes, and parasites. Bloat is caused more by the owner than anything else, and the others are all ones that will normally show up pretty quick if the fish is infected. So most times 3 weeks is more than ample.

I said it before but I'll say it again. If you or anyone else feels it takes 6 weeks, 6 months, 6 years then that's perfectly fine, it's your fish and you do what you feel is best. I'm simply saying that the majority of the time 3 weeks is perfectly fine barring any out of the normal illness cases. I'm not trying to get into some back & forth thing here because I don't get into those sort of things. I'm simply offering the OP my view (just as you and others have) based on my exp and the exp of others I know in the hobby.
 
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RD. said:
I don't know the exact correct ratio, but I'm sure one can find out via google. Neutralize with water conditioner, Prime, Safe, Sodium Thiosulfate, whatever is easiest to get your hands on.
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I never knew water conditioner can be used to neutralize tanks.. Or are you phrasing it metaphorically in regards to anything we can get our hands on?
 
As I said, in reference to aquaculture and ornamental species of fish clearly the term biosecurity is not understood well by some. There is nothing overcomplicated about utilizing an extended QT period, or adding water/bacteria from the main tank to a QT tank. It's actually very simplistic. Many people are simply too impatient, something that I have also been guilty of in the past.



I never knew water conditioner can be used to neutralize tanks
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Used to neutralize bleach ...........
 
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I always love how just because someones views do not agree 100% with someone elses then that person jumps to the conclusion that you don't understand something. I do understand QT and security of preventing illness, and if you have ever seen any of my tanks and the 100+ hours of work I put into my hand made BG's you'd know I have the patience of a Buddhist monk ;)

Just a difference of opinion is all. Nothing more nothing less.
 
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I thought that you didn't want to go back & forth, Steve? lol

I honestly don't give a flying puck how long anyone QT's their fish for, but seeing as someone asked .......
 
I don't go back & forth with people, but if you start insinuating that I don't understand something just because I don't agree with your view then you honestly expect me to not say something about it?

This is starting to get ridiculous. The info on Qt is out there and pretty easy to find. Hope the OP finds what he's looking for, I'm done have a good day.
 
The OP lives in Malaysia, and keeps flowerhorn, where breeders feed blood worms etc collected in ditches. Of all fish in the world, especially the ones bred & raised in that part of the world, require as much QT as one can dedicate. That, and a good deworming program, and IMO and IME I would also give them a preventative round of Metronidazole while in QT. (NLS Hex-Shield or at the least Epsom soaked pellets) And I would keep the FH in cooler water than what is typically suggested (78F if possible) to keep the bacteria count in check.

2-3 weeks of isolation doesn't mean jack to a FH in SE Asia.

But hey, what do I know......
 
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