ray issues

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doviiman

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2007
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I notice a couple of days ago one of my male rays was missing from the tank, to my surprise he was floating at the top of the tank as if he was surffing but his air holes were out the water, not sure what happen so i tested water (parameter were livable) but proceeded to do a 20% water change anyway and add a littel salt. That seems to calm him down and bring him back to the bottom of the tank, then the next day I noticed that one of his barb had come off, he still seemed okay but is not eating or swimming around nearly as much as he use to and last night I noticed that the tip of his tail looks to have some type of fungus/rot and as of this morning three days now and he still is not eating. Has anyone seen any of these issues or this type behavior, is there anything I can do? Keeping in mind that I have another ray in there with him that is doing well and eating up a storm. In fact of the two this one was the most out going.:(
 
PeteLockwood;5111187; said:
Livable? What were the readings? And what are they now?

As of now water par are
nitrites 0 - 0.2
nitrates 80
ph 7.0
kh 30
gh 70
 
that is not good enough for rays, what is the stock on that tank and how much water does it hold?
How often do you water change and what percentage
How long has it been established?
It seems to me those conditions are not livable
 
creepyoldguy;5111232; said:
Is your tank neely setup? A nitrite reading indicates something is going on w your bio filter or it has not cometely cycled.[/QUOT
It's a somewhat new tank set-up but has been running for about a month, and the water and filter media came from my 300gal before break down.
 
Ok, what was living in your 300? Beneficial bacteria will grow to support the bio load of the stock in the tank, therefore if your current stock is a larger bio load than that of 300g, it wouldn't be able to support it instantly. I think your tank went into a minicycle causing a spike in ammonia, which caused the nitrite spike. I would suggest doing a 25-50% waterchange and monitor the water very close until you all levels back to normal. I don't thiunk 80ppm on nitrates is terrible, but def not the best. Most well water has nitrates to begin with so when everyone says nitrates should be <5ppm, is not always possible without r/o
 
bonesb66;5111241; said:
that is not good enough for rays, what is the stock on that tank and how much water does it hold?
How often do you water change and what percentage
How long has it been established?
It seems to me those conditions are not livable

nitrites are prettty much at 0
nitrates are about 60 but didn't think that was that critical
PH at 7.0 - 7.2
my Gh is always been in the upper area a Florida thing
I cycle the tank at least 1 a week, but so far twice this week.
Its a 125 gallon, has 2 ray (moto ans Hen)
5 -Blk bar sil dol, 3 clown loach, 1 gar, 2 com pleco, and 1 tig cat
Again this is just a holding tank until I get my 900 up and running.

So what need to be changed in my water conditions, mind you the otehr ray is doing well, plsu if tehre is a sensitive fish in there it would be the tig, and he is doing well also eating up a storm like the otehr ray
 
Ok, what was living in your 300? Beneficial bacteria will grow to support the bio load of the stock in the tank, therefore if your current stock is a larger bio load than that of 300g, it wouldn't be able to support it instantly. I think your tank went into a minicycle causing a spike in ammonia, which caused the nitrite spike. I would suggest doing a 25-50% waterchange and monitor the water very close until you all levels back to normal. I don't thiunk 80ppm on nitrates is terrible, but def not the best. Most well water has nitrates to begin with so when everyone says nitrates should be <5ppm, is not always possible without r/o



These same fish were in the 300 gal. I just sold it and purchaed a larger tank. This tank does not have a wet/dry system on it, but I am using the same three magnum, canister that were on the 300gal.
I am not sure what you aer saying I guess if the Nitrites are at 0 then waht else can i do but try and bring the water hardness and nitrates down.
Unfortuantly this API test kit does not read amonia reading but I will be going to buy a better one today as soon as pets mart open.
 
^^^^ If you have the same stock from your other tank along with the same filters and same media, you should be fine. I"m saying since your getting a nitrite reading, your tank somehow went into a mini cycle, unless you don't have enough bio media to begin with. It's good that youre not getting an ammonia reading, you don't want to see ammonia in your tank. You also do not want to see nitrite in your tank. If those are reading 0, that is good and dont mess with your ph or hardness. Do a water change and test the water again.
 
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