+1.
Tika, it could also be your drip system, dripping alot of fresh water so your paramteres are at top notch all the time, that makes the rays heal upp, without putting salt etc..
Ray Keepers--- DO YOU RUN A UV on your tank--and why?
- Thread starter keepinfish
- Start date
+1.
Tika, it could also be your drip system, dripping alot of fresh water so your paramteres are at top notch all the time, that makes the rays heal upp, without putting salt etc..
IF I'm not mistaken, you just use larger bulbs to accomodate higher flow rates. IF it survives a pass then the flowrate needs to be lower to create more "contact time" with the light. I think you could use a half dozen low wattage bulbs, with a half dozen small pumps, and still get the same effect as if you had a larger bulb at a higher flowrate. I'm guessing the bigger bulbs allow installation in return lines, so you can buy a bulb that fits your flow instead of buying a pump to fit your bulb. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, I have no idea, as I don't run them, just sharing my interpretation.
But this is the same concept as running a half dozen AC 110s on a tank instead of a sump.
Keeping rays is complicated enough the way it is. The last thing I'm gonna sit there and worry about is a half dozen impellers screwing up, or insuring my half dozen bulbs are all ok.
It's one thing IF the juice is worth the squeeze but if the jury is still out it's hard to justify the extra cost and maintainance. I'd rather just figure out the right way to do stuff so I wasn't adding un necessary stuff because I'm not doing the necessary stuff properly.
sorry but this is wrong.
the amount of watts is only part of the equation, 'pass' time is more important, the flow rate governs the amount of time a given pathogen is exposed to the UV.
even 1 watt will kill most things if they are exposed long enough. Higher wattage means you can have faster flow rates and bigger volumes of water.
Once again David is right. I do not understand why so much BS floats around UV use... (pun intended)
i was recently told from a manufactuer that slowing down the flow and having bulbs directly accross from one another equals a far better kill rate.i have a 4lamp unit with 4-58w lamps in a square pattern and am told theres little or nothing that would survive passing between the 4 bulbs.he showed me the "calculations of kill rate//dosing,that was quite high but it was all french to me...lol
i also have a 114w unit with 2-57w lamps inline with eachother and never have problems with that tank either.
i also have a 114w unit with 2-57w lamps inline with eachother and never have problems with that tank either.
Which is a very good reason to have one.
Check this article out. Very informative. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html
Agree 100% as long as you use a good sterilizer, change bulb when necessary, & set it up properly (water flow etc.). The only thing i DISAGREE is a well made UV sterilizer is NOT cheap.
Al, you are looking at one of the most expensive UVs there. Look at the aqua ultraviolet line. Cheaper in price but just as good (Made in the USA).
I agree "hang time" is of major concern when setting up a UV. Although I understand your example of the one watt killing most pathogens, under reasonable water rates (hang time) there are certain pathogens known to survive at 20 watts. That is why I always recommend a min of a 25 watt properly installed UV.
w lim corp has a nice twin 58w unit that would work well for you al. if thats not enough, you can buy the quad lamp 58w each unit i have. i think that would kill about anything you put in front of it.its very similar to most uv's. in my opinion built better and is spose to have more mercury in the lamp which makes a brighter and better kill rate. see this link at the bottom of the page, 116 watt unit.pm kendragon for a better than listed price
http://wlimproducts.com/index.php?o...v&catid=9:ultraviolet-sterilizer-uv&Itemid=23
A well built 40 watt UV will work on your 750/1k gall tank. Flowrate: 30 gallon per hour per watt. So 30 gph * 40 watts = 1200 gph. So a flowrate of 1,200 gph going through your 40 watt will kill most pathogens & with 1,200 gph it is a bit higher than the minimum 1x turnover.
If you want to kill 99% of pathogens that go through the UV, then a well built 80 watt UV will do. Flowrate: 12 gallons per hour per watt. So 12gph * 80 watts = 960 gph. So a flowrate of 1,00 gph going through your 80 watt will kill virtually everything & anything that goes through it & you have approximately 1x turn over which is the minimum recommended.
The reason aquatic eco-systems saids 700 gall for the 130 watt UV is because they are using a much higher flowrate to accomplish the same level of sterilization. They are using flowrates of 3,420 gph to 5,700 gph!!!
Overkill. Would not hurt though. Only downfall is price difference of 80 watt UV vs 120 watt UV PLUS the added 40watts in electricity.
