Rays, resistance to ammonia and nitrite (Busted!!) A must reader!

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andersp90

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Apr 11, 2007
1,666
5
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Denmark
Hey everyone.

I know that the general opinion on this subject is that all Potamotrygons are very sensitive to both ammonia and nitrite. But I think its time for me to bust this myth (and that of ammonia burns).

I have kept rays for almost 3 years now and started out with a pair of hystrix. I got a pair of motoros a year later. I didn’t know much about keeping these fish so it was all trial and error at that point in time (Couldn’t find much info, and the things I did find where written on German).
But, the first half year everything went well, and my hystrix pair grew and ate like pigs. But then things started to get out of control. My pumps couldn’t keep up with the ray’s bio waste. The ammonia and nitrite where at a steady 0.4 ppm (0,4 mg/l). It took a month before I gave up and bought a bigger filter. But the rays didn’t react to the bad water, not at all! They just behaved like normal. No stress, no ammonia burns, no nothing. Also, I didn’t know anything about the fact that rays should be sensitive Ammonia or nitrate, and I don’t think the hystrixs did either. :grinno:
Well, I got the water under control again, and I didn’t really have any problems with the hystrixs again. But then I got my motoro pair. They got a rough start and turned the water real bad, real fast. I think I went up to around 0,6 ppm (0,6 mg/l). This was due to a bio filter that died on me. They lived in 0.6 ppm (0,6 mg/l) water for 3 days before I got a new filter from a lfs (with active biomass). This time they where swimming around a lot and up the glass. But I wasn’t sure if it was do to the water of the fact that they had just been shipped. Though stressed (and with 0,6 ppm nitrite and ammonia), they ate like normal.
Then half a year ago, I got another pair of rays. They were the common brown type from Columbia. This time things went wrong, AGAIN! I have always used rough filter mats in my bio filters. But some noob form another fish forum, told me to use bio balls in my canister filters. Bio balls are cheap, so I gave it a shot. But they didn’t do well, not at all! Their surface area is only half of that of most rough filter mats. So once again the ammonia and nitrite levels went crazy, peaking at 1,9 ppm (1,9 mg/l) and 1+ ppm nitrite. They stayed in water like this for 4 days (did everthing I could to lower the levels, but nothing worked + I didn’t feed them in this period)! This time both rays went crazy, breathing heavily and refusing to eat (no wonder though). But they both made it, and started feeding when the water got better.
But again, this didn’t prove anything.
So I had to make an experiment. And the result are in, please read on.

The experiment.

The experiment was done with my 35 cm leo male (yes I did use a 3000 dollars fish as ginnypig).
The tank was a standard Danish 145 gallon.
I started out by removing one of the bio filters and raising the ammonia and nitrite levels to a steady 0,4-0,6 ppm (0,4-0,6 mg/l). At this point nothing happened. It ate and behaved as normal, not showing any signs of stress. This level was kept for 2 weeks. Nothing changed. I then raised the level to 0,6-0.8 ppm. At this point the first signs of stress started to show, as it swam up the glass more often. But it still ate, and its behaviour was relatively normal. Now, ammonia is toxic to fish because it reduces their ability to absorb oxygen form the water. That’s also why most fish breath extremely fast when your water turns bad, as they fight to absorb oxygen. The ray did breathe a little faster, but not much. I kept things like this for 2 weeks.
I was now ready to take the last step and raise the levels to 0,9-1+ ppm (0,9-1+ mg/l).
This time I got a real reaction. It showed real signs of stress, swimming a lot, trying to find a way out of the tank. I refused to eat to. I kept the levels like this for only 2 hours. He just looked so stressed that I couldn’t bare to watch. So I lowered the levels to 0,8 ppm. And then I got a shock! He started eating again just as the levels passed 9 ppm!
At this point (yesterday) I was satisfied with my results, and ended the experiment.
I connected the 2end bio filters again and did 3 x 50 % water changes (also yesterday). And now everything is back to normal, and the water is perfect.

I think these results will chock many, and for good reason. Everyone on this forum has been talking about ammonia burns and rays dying at levels of only 0,05 pmm (ammonia). I think it was rudy that lost a lot of rays, and the 0,05 ppm ammonia got the blame. But these results just goes to show, that we shouldn’t blame the ammonia or nitrite, in cases like that.
I also think its safe to say that is time to lay this myth to rest, as most normal fish would have died early on in experiment. Also, the ammonia burn thing, it’s a myth too. Any fish doped into a tank with a concentration of ammonia strong enough to burn/dissolve flesh would be dead in mere seconds do to suffocation. Also, the rays eyes would be the first thing to go, not the flesh.
Ammonia strong enough to burn or dissolve flesh simply isn’t found in ANY fishtank. BUT, leos, hystrix and motoros are some real hardy rays, rectis, tigers and flowers could be more sensitive. Who knows?
Also, everyone is linking deathcurl to ammonia and nitrite, but I am not sure anymore. I can’t prove anything though (yet).

I will do an experiment with ammonia alone soon, just to see how much rays can tolerate (Don’t worry, I won’t kill it).

But I think that’s will all for now. I/we have busted two myths today. So I think it’s safe to say that my job is done for now. :)

P.s Im danish, so some of the spelling might be wrong.
 
Although I understand the will to experiment, what is the purpose in this case? You surely are not planning to keep rays in ammonia ridden water, so why test for it?

What was the ph of your water during the experiment?
 
Miguel;1798650; said:
Although I understand the will to experiment, what is the purpose in this case? You surely are not planning to keep rays in ammonia ridden water, so why test for it?
Miguel;1798650; said:
What was the ph of your water during the experiment?

Sry, but I didn’t test the pH. I don’t even have a pH kid in my house, as I only keep rays atm.
I didn’t do the experiment for the fun of it either, if that’s what your thinking. I did it to show other ray keepers, that spikes in ammonia or nitrite won’t kill their rays. There have been so much fuss about bad water and rays dying, and I think it has scared a lot of people.
This test just goes shows that you don’t have to panic if you have a spike of some sort. Just be clam and get it under control.
Rays are some of the most hardy fish in the aquarium trade. And i think that will clam down a lot people.
 
Without temperature and especially pH information, your findings are not that relevant.


Quickest set of info I could find:

"Ammonia toxicity is significantly influenced by temperature and pH. The lower the temperature and pH the more ammonia can be tolerated.

Lethal ammonia concentrations at a pH of 6.5 are 0.73 ppm, while at pH 8.5 only 0.17 ppm are considered lethal to inhabitants.

A fish tank kept at 68 degrees F can tolerate more then twice the amount of ammonia as a tank kept at 86 degrees F."
taken from: http://www.algone.com/ammonia.php
 
Sry, forgot to add temp. The tank was kept at 28 degress (82 degress F).

I can also work out the pH by doing a little math. Can anyone help me edit so i can add temp and pH..?
 
Yeah the pH makes a big difference..

Ammonia toxicity in rays has alot to do with when they are shipped. The respire in the bag, increasing cO2, thus lowering the pH. They then produce ammonia through osmosis, which is acid, thus lowering the pH. You open the bag and drip acclimate to a higher pH (as many uninformed importers do) and it creates the 'ammonia burn' that is so often mentioned..

It's also noted that rays will be more sensitive at different ages and different species.. so perhaps your Leo is just one tough SOB and a hungry mofo. :D
 
tank125;1798754; said:



This equation will be very useful to me. Can you post it?


Yes that would be no problem, but I am not sure you will understand it..

We did alot of pH calculating last year on HTX (a kind of mat collage in Denmark). They are fairly accurate. :)

Within 0,5 +/-.

I took a look in my chemistry book 10 min ago, but I am not 100% sure my equations are right (they look ok though). :S I will talk to my chemistry teacher about it, maybe Monday. :)
I think see will be happy, seeing me using it in a real life situation. :)

Do you have any knowledge about how to do it (from your collage time mabye)?
If not, I will have to find a more simple way. But I will talk to my teacher Monday. :)


 
Miles;1798762; said:
Yeah the pH makes a big difference..

Ammonia toxicity in rays has alot to do with when they are shipped. The respire in the bag, increasing cO2, thus lowering the pH. They then produce ammonia through osmosis, which is acid, thus lowering the pH. You open the bag and drip acclimate to a higher pH (as many uninformed importers do) and it creates the 'ammonia burn' that is so often mentioned..

It's also noted that rays will be more sensitive at different ages and different species.. so perhaps your Leo is just one tough SOB and a hungry mofo. :D

There is no doubt in my mind that motors, leos, henlei and hystrix can tolerate almost anything. But rays like rectis, flowers and tigers may be more sensetive. Could you do an experiment with one of your rectis? would be really good to see how much they can tolerate. :popcorn:

I did my math, and is says the pH was around 8,5 when i did the 0,9-1 + ppm experiment. But i could be wrong, havent done this kind of math in a looong time. Will talk to my dear teacher.. :ROFL:

I still dont understand the brun thing Miles, are you saying that the drops will brun/desolve the rays flesh? Plz explain further. :popcorn:

The only thing i have ever seen, strong enough to cause burns like that by just a drop or two is concentrated H2SO4 and HCL.. :irked:

Miles;1798762; said:
They then produce ammonia through osmosis, which is acid

And plz explain this part, I am reading it like your saying that ammoina is an acid. So im must be reading/understanding it in the wrong way.
 
At the lfs I used to work at, someone brought in about 1000 1-1 1/2 inch flowerhorn fry, and we had no choice but to put them in a 40 breeder. Over the course of the next few days, the bio-filter was overloaded (obviously), and the ammonia levels in the tank rose to a deadly 8.0 ppm. Obviously, had we dropped these fish into that water from being in good, freshwater, they would have all died. However, because this change occurred over 3-4 days, they were able to tolerate it, and none died. I assume the way you performed your experiment was through allowing it to rise over the course of a few days. In that case, almost any fish can live through that for at least a brief period of time, provided the transition time is long enough. it gives them time to produce more slime, and increase their metabolism for higher respiration rate.
Also, I'm not really seeing how you could calculate your pH when you don't have a base starting point and don't know the exact composition of the water aside from NH3 and N02 content. Actually, I would say it's definitely impossible, partially because I know that a ray would be dead at an already stressful pH of 8.5, at which ammonia poisoning would probably occur around .17 ppm, like stated above. As useful as this experiment may be to you, I can assure you that the stress will shorten your rays' lifespans, and I doubt you want to get less out of your "$3000 leo" than what you possibly could. If these rays were kept at a low enough pH (in theory), you wouldn't even need a bio-filter, as all NH3 would automatically be converted into NH4+, which is near harmless(less harmful than nitrate, I believe), due to the the high H3O+ content of the water.


Note: If the strongest acids you have seen thus far are HCL and H2SO4, you have a lot to look forward to in college chem lab!:thumbsup:
 
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