Red Head Tapajos Geo help

[duanes]

I agree with the others recommending that a quarantine tank will be needed, and not just because the new fish might bring something in, but because your old fish may have been exposed to something along the way, something they are now immune (or built up a tolerance to) something the new fish may have not tolerance for (ick can be included in that scenario). And if the new fish become infected, that infection might then come back to overwhelm the tolerance your old fish.
Now for my opinion of the peat...its usefulness is not only the perceived changes in water chemistry (whether real or not) but the tannins produced by peat, act as a natural bactericide for fish endemic to tannin infused waters. These tannins might not be enough to stop an acute infection, but may be needed over time to fight off chronic infections like HITH, or other normally non-threatening infections, but those that become problematic for fish endemic to tannic waters when kept without the tannins.

 

[Drstrangelove]

Don't worry, I'd never put these guys in the 55 while it has ich, treatment has been underway for a few days now, so hopefully it will be cleared in the next couple days.

Ich does not clear up in a few days. It simply doesn't.

Ich is a very successful parasite that will take from 10 -14 days (using the most aggressive methods available that won't kill the hosts) up to 30 days (or even longer at cool temperatures) to clear up.

This is even assuming (although I think one should not), that the tanks are not being re-infected from one to the other and back again.

 

[cmsbthebest]

Ich does not clear up in a few days. It simply doesn't.

Ich is a very successful parasite that will take from 10 -14 days (using the most aggressive methods available that won't kill the hosts) up to 30 days (or even longer at cool temperatures) to clear up.

This is even assuming (although I think one should not), that the tanks are not being re-infected from one to the other and back again.

lol I'm well aware that ich takes that long to go away. When my 75 had it, I had to treat it for over 3 weeks. I should have worded that better to just show that I hoped it would go away soon, not just in like a day or 2. I'm fully expecting to have to treat the tank for at least another week.

 

[cmsbthebest]

Also the numbers are in on Gh and Kh

Gh is 9, Kh is 8, which is lower than what I thought it would be, so I guess my water is officially moderately hard.

There is a little bit of peat moss in the 10 gallon, and it seems to have lowered the numbers slightly. I'm sure if I added more there would be a more noticeable effect.

 

[Stanzzzz7]

Get some c/a eartheaters instead. They will live the water you already have.

 

[RD.]

IME, OH Tapajos are not often prone to HITH, and I have seen them kept here in hard water with pH 8.0+ without issue. Large adult fish.

In his book on eartheaters, Weidner states; "A hardness up to 20 dGH and alkaline water (up to pH 8.0) will not prevent G. sp. Tapajos Orange Head from breeding successfully, and this species does no seem to be particularly susceptible to the skin lesions that commonly occur in Geophagus in harder water."

While I agree with Duane regarding tannins, humic acid, turpines, etc, found in many of these species natural waters, and it's benefit in keeping certain bacteria at bay, with this species, keeping your water clean, and as neutrino suggested, well oxygenated, is key. If you want to add peat, ketapang leaves, etc to your water that's all good and well, but keeping the water free of bacteria build up is most important. While in QT I would also feed them NLS Hex-Shield for a few days as a preventative measure.

Good luck.

 

[Toiletcar]

I agree what others have said.
An appropriate QT is extremely important. I haven't had an ich outbreak in over 20 years because of it. It's also best to make sure you purchase a fish from a reputable place and if LFS,spend time studying the fish before you buy. That way you avoid buying a diseased fish or know what you need to treat for.
I always say plan your stock around tank size as adults and your tap water.

 

[neutrino]

Like I say my hardness is typically 12-14, both GH and KH. I was also breeding them for a while. And as I've said elsewhere, don't know what goes on with some that HITH is an issue for them, but I never see it, including the tapajos geos, of course.

(I've had exactly one case-- i.e. a single fish-- of mild, early stage HITH-- ever-- and it straightened right out with a mild in-tank meth blue treatment. Contrary to common notions on the subject, ime a healthy and well established tank/filter/beneficial bacteria colony can deal with a mild to moderate meth blue treatment for several days or longer. My tanks have Eheim bio media, if that makes a difference.)

 

[decoy50]

Five 1-2in red heads in a 10gal will be fine for qt. Just be careful with overfeeding & stay on top of WCs. In regards to it not being a cycled tank, use some of the media from your cycled 75.

I've kept red heads in 7.6-7.8 pH

 

[cmsbthebest]

IME, OH Tapajos are not often prone to HITH, and I have seen them kept here in hard water with pH 8.0+ without issue. Large adult fish.

In his book on eartheaters, Weidner states; "A hardness up to 20 dGH and alkaline water (up to pH 8.0) will not prevent G. sp. Tapajos Orange Head from breeding successfully, and this species does no seem to be particularly susceptible to the skin lesions that commonly occur in Geophagus in harder water."

While I agree with Duane regarding tannins, humic acid, turpines, etc, found in many of these species natural waters, and it's benefit in keeping certain bacteria at bay, with this species, keeping your water clean, and as neutrino suggested, well oxygenated, is key. If you want to add peat, ketapang leaves, etc to your water that's all good and well, but keeping the water free of bacteria build up is most important. While in QT I would also feed them NLS Hex-Shield for a few days as a preventative measure.

Good luck.

I agree what others have said.
An appropriate QT is extremely important. I haven't had an ich outbreak in over 20 years because of it. It's also best to make sure you purchase a fish from a reputable place and if LFS,spend time studying the fish before you buy. That way you avoid buying a diseased fish or know what you need to treat for.
I always say plan your stock around tank size as adults and your tap water.

Like I say my hardness is typically 12-14, both GH and KH. I was also breeding them for a while. And as I've said elsewhere, don't know what goes on with some that HITH is an issue for them, but I never see it, including the tapajos geos, of course.

(I've had exactly one case-- i.e. a single fish-- of mild, early stage HITH-- ever-- and it straightened right out with a mild in-tank meth blue treatment. Contrary to common notions on the subject, ime a healthy and well established tank/filter/beneficial bacteria colony can deal with a mild to moderate meth blue treatment for several days or longer. My tanks have Eheim bio media, if that makes a difference.)

Alright, there are definitely some tannins in the water since it looks more like tea now lol. I'll make sure they are quarantined well. The Ich in my 55 is because that was the former quarantine tank, so the fish I was quarantining are what had ich.

And its cool to hear others have kept them in water even harder than mine, so thanks for chiming in.

Also I'll make sure I focus on aeration in both the 10 and 75 while they are in there. I will keep the water levels low so the output from my HOB filters add more oxygen to the water.