Red spots on walking catfish

thebiggerthebetter

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Looks like a mouth rot to me. The cause is stress. Most likely from toxic water.
 
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Hendre

Bawitius
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amonia is liquid the others are stripes but they are accurate
Liquid tests are much better than strips, see if your LFS could do tests for you :)
 

thebiggerthebetter

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I am not aware of accurate strip tests. They are a rough measure at best, kind of yes or no, or high or low, while chronic exposure to a low level of toxins, such as 0.1-0.2 ppm for ammonia and nitrite, will eventually sicken any fish sooner or later.
 

Savethemall

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Hi, i wanted to ask again about this situation since hes condition is worsening. those red spots has bocome a growth and he has another one near his "neck" he is stil active and has appetite but this dosent look good. lwast water test showed 0,0,10 temp now at 25 C , please help with any info about diseases that can look the same and treatments,thank you
 

thebiggerthebetter

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Sorry to hear.

So your walking catfish is 20 cm (8") in 600 liters (~120 gal). Alone.

What is 0,0,10?

Zero ppm ammonia by a liquid test? What kind of test? API?
Zero ppm nitrite by a strip / dip stick test?
Ten ppm nitrate by a strip test?

I asked you to follow the protocol to help you. You wouldn't budge, it seems. Your choice anyway.

Don't trust the strips. Get you water measured by an LFS or a friend by an all liquid test tube test. Or best of all, buy an all liquid reputable test such as API: https://www.chewy.com/api-freshwate...i23jcAu4xqs6kAyjIO4aAruYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Do you have other fish, perhaps in other tanks, same water. Any issues?

How do you treat the tap water before adding it to the tank?

Is the aeration adequate?

Is the temp and pH stable?

What is the water hardness and is it stable (enough of KH would indicate the pH is stable)?

What do you feed it? Live feeder fish? Is there any other plausible source of infections / pathogens?

What's the lighting like?

Is your tap water potable?
 

Savethemall

Candiru
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The last test i took was API liquid test, shoeing 0 amonia 0 nitrite and 10 nitrate.im using prime for treating the water, the lightning is natural, no artifificial light. the kh and gh are only found here in a stick test by JBL even in the LFS so thats the results i have, it is stable. dont have any other fish with the same issues, he feeds on JBL ciclid sticks, temp is stable on 25 C..
 

thebiggerthebetter

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You can look up mouth and fin rot disease and see what is used to help it.

But it's very hard to ID a disease with such symptoms - the culprit candidates can be many ranging from various parasites to various bacteria to fungi, etc. Moreover, it is usually unnecessary either.

It is safe to assume that your fish is significantly stressed by something in your water or in your husbandry or both. The cause(s) of the stress must be found and eliminated. Pristine, well-aerated water and lack of stress usually is all that's needed for the fish to recover on its own without any meds or special procedures. Meds and procedures carry risks and can easily add more harm than do any good.

If still at a complete loss after going over the protocols and what they suggest to find a cause of the disease-causing stress, one could attempt to give the fish a serious of recommended baths in a general antiseptic-antiparasitic-antifungal agent, such as potassium permanganate or hydrogen peroxide or even table salt. Or disinfect the affected spots with a q-tip soaked in the named antiseptics.

The disease might even go away but if the underlying cause of stress is not removed, the disease will come back or turn into something worse.
 
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