I have got 2 retics . Pups and 6 inches. They all look nice but to me they are very sensitive in temperature change ( In my case ). Good luck to you.
Reticulated Rays, max size/tank requirements
- Thread starter PoopSmart
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alright that makes sense. I am guessing rays are very messy eaters then? I thought the geophagus would be too much of a bottom dweller to have with the rays, but I can see how they would be great for picking through the substrate while not always being parked on the substrate.
I think that the last question I have is about substrate. Pool filter sand is a definite no because its silica, right? What about pea gravel or some small gravel? I don't know the best reasonably priced sand to get, since you can't use pool filter sand, but if I wanted, could the tank only have maybe half of the bottom covered with sand so there re bare and sandy parts? or is this bad for the ray. I figured then if they wanted to burrow they could and if they wanted to just undulate around on some smooth surface they could do that too.
I am leaning towards no substrate at the moment, but I am just concerned about housing beneficial bacteria. Guess I can whip out my old sponge filters and use those.
I think that the last question I have is about substrate. Pool filter sand is a definite no because its silica, right? What about pea gravel or some small gravel? I don't know the best reasonably priced sand to get, since you can't use pool filter sand, but if I wanted, could the tank only have maybe half of the bottom covered with sand so there re bare and sandy parts? or is this bad for the ray. I figured then if they wanted to burrow they could and if they wanted to just undulate around on some smooth surface they could do that too.
I am leaning towards no substrate at the moment, but I am just concerned about housing beneficial bacteria. Guess I can whip out my old sponge filters and use those.
Most experienced raykeepers find that no substrate at all is the most reasonable for maintenance..
Some prefer the aesthetics of sand, it is also believed to reduce stress in juveniles (or increase stress if its an abrasive substrate..)
I found a very 'fine' grain play sand from my LFS who got it from a gravel company in Portland, OR.. It's more like gravel than it is sand, because most super-fine sands can compact and cause dead spots if too thick and doesn't get turned over by the rays.. I hear there is a brand of large grain pool filter sand that is 100% quartz and smooth.. hard to find. Call around to your Spa stores, ask for someone who knows their stuff.. they might be able to order it through their distributors.
However, I wish I would of gone barebottom for ease of maintenance.. Gravel-Vaccing a 180g a few times a week is getting old.. I added some more circulation (350gph powerhead w/ spray bar) to help pick up particles but now my pre-filters get nasty quicker.. and I don't think the rays like the fast current accross the bottom of the tank (constantly) though, so I have it on a timer so it only 'blows' the bottom of the substrate for an hour or so a few times a day..
I added some black skirts and sevs for a cleanup crew like I said~ They help a ton. When rays eat things like mysis, bloodworms, and krill they send tiny little particles all over the tank (krill legs, eyes, shreds, etc) and small mouth tetras will clean them up.. and act as a food source in the future!
If you do barebottom and have your current blow all the feces/particles into one location it cuts way down on maintenance and keeps water quality up, as you won't get as much detritus, etc if you are just changing a single pre-filter daily..
Also the fine sand substrate, especially if it isn't compacted, also acts as a nitrifying bacteria bed, for immediate break-down within the tank.. Either way you should be over-filtered (turnover rate) to the point where you shouldn't worry too much about bio-load.. a wet/dry on an overflow, bare-bottom, with the current blowing all the waste into one pre-filter, seems to be the optimal set-up for ease of husbandry..
PS.. I hear Geo tankmates depends on the species.. some are more aggressive than others, my Geo. Surinemens is a jerk, and I have kept him around for over a year just to go with rays.. but after watching him chase my Paratilapia, Severums, and Snooks all over the 375g and getting told that they are one of the meanest Geos, he is getting sold..
Some prefer the aesthetics of sand, it is also believed to reduce stress in juveniles (or increase stress if its an abrasive substrate..)
I found a very 'fine' grain play sand from my LFS who got it from a gravel company in Portland, OR.. It's more like gravel than it is sand, because most super-fine sands can compact and cause dead spots if too thick and doesn't get turned over by the rays.. I hear there is a brand of large grain pool filter sand that is 100% quartz and smooth.. hard to find. Call around to your Spa stores, ask for someone who knows their stuff.. they might be able to order it through their distributors.
However, I wish I would of gone barebottom for ease of maintenance.. Gravel-Vaccing a 180g a few times a week is getting old.. I added some more circulation (350gph powerhead w/ spray bar) to help pick up particles but now my pre-filters get nasty quicker.. and I don't think the rays like the fast current accross the bottom of the tank (constantly) though, so I have it on a timer so it only 'blows' the bottom of the substrate for an hour or so a few times a day..
I added some black skirts and sevs for a cleanup crew like I said~ They help a ton. When rays eat things like mysis, bloodworms, and krill they send tiny little particles all over the tank (krill legs, eyes, shreds, etc) and small mouth tetras will clean them up.. and act as a food source in the future!
If you do barebottom and have your current blow all the feces/particles into one location it cuts way down on maintenance and keeps water quality up, as you won't get as much detritus, etc if you are just changing a single pre-filter daily..
Also the fine sand substrate, especially if it isn't compacted, also acts as a nitrifying bacteria bed, for immediate break-down within the tank.. Either way you should be over-filtered (turnover rate) to the point where you shouldn't worry too much about bio-load.. a wet/dry on an overflow, bare-bottom, with the current blowing all the waste into one pre-filter, seems to be the optimal set-up for ease of husbandry..
PS.. I hear Geo tankmates depends on the species.. some are more aggressive than others, my Geo. Surinemens is a jerk, and I have kept him around for over a year just to go with rays.. but after watching him chase my Paratilapia, Severums, and Snooks all over the 375g and getting told that they are one of the meanest Geos, he is getting sold..
hahahaha, funny about the tetras. They are just future food swimming around to clean up the tank. Those were one of my first fish I ever bought (I was 10) and the last one just died recently at the ripe age of 8 and a half years.
Anyway, I was almost positive on the bare bottom tank, BUT after reading and re-reading (and then probably rereading again) all the pages of the sand vs. barebottom sticky, I realized that I just kept flip-flopping and couldn't get the right idea. They all have pros and cons like with sand they can hide and be more comfortable, but without sand I could keep their tank cleaner and in turn make them healthier and therefore comfortable.
I think keeping them healthy is the best bet, I will probably add some large pieces of driftwood (from my failed discus planted tank) that I have lying around. I assume those are alright since I see driftwood in many ray tanks, but would they also enjoy some slate? I know it would raise the hardness and pH, but I heard that ph and hardness are about as big of a deal with them as they are with discus. They will do fine in high pH and its more important to keep the pH constant. Is that correct?
I probably won't try the Geo's unless I find a passive tempered reasonably priced one...So far, no luck.
If my LFS gets an order of sajicas in then i will try them with the rays. They only get about 5 inches and are supposedly mild tempered (probably close to a severum). Thanks again miles for all your help.
Anyway, I was almost positive on the bare bottom tank, BUT after reading and re-reading (and then probably rereading again) all the pages of the sand vs. barebottom sticky, I realized that I just kept flip-flopping and couldn't get the right idea. They all have pros and cons like with sand they can hide and be more comfortable, but without sand I could keep their tank cleaner and in turn make them healthier and therefore comfortable.
I think keeping them healthy is the best bet, I will probably add some large pieces of driftwood (from my failed discus planted tank) that I have lying around. I assume those are alright since I see driftwood in many ray tanks, but would they also enjoy some slate? I know it would raise the hardness and pH, but I heard that ph and hardness are about as big of a deal with them as they are with discus. They will do fine in high pH and its more important to keep the pH constant. Is that correct?
I probably won't try the Geo's unless I find a passive tempered reasonably priced one...So far, no luck.
If my LFS gets an order of sajicas in then i will try them with the rays. They only get about 5 inches and are supposedly mild tempered (probably close to a severum). Thanks again miles for all your help.
Barebottom, Driftwood, No Slate 
It may raise hardness but it can also leach bad minerals like copper and zinc, which tough fish like Cichlids may have no ill effects with, but can have longterm effects on rays.. or they could injure their disc on sharp edges.. Killed a puffer that way. Had some slate in with Convicts and Africans for years.. added it to a puffer tank and they all started dying?! Took it out, and the next batch did fine.
It may raise hardness but it can also leach bad minerals like copper and zinc, which tough fish like Cichlids may have no ill effects with, but can have longterm effects on rays.. or they could injure their disc on sharp edges.. Killed a puffer that way. Had some slate in with Convicts and Africans for years.. added it to a puffer tank and they all started dying?! Took it out, and the next batch did fine.
wow thanks. I had no idea that slate did that. Well I am pretty sure all my questions have been answered about these reticulated rays.
Thanks a ton, I will keep reading up on them and hopefully after christmas rolls around and the christmas cash rolls in I can get a big tank and a couple rays (after its cycled of course!).
Oh any other particular informational books I should look into? Or even interesting ones aobut origins and evolution? They evolved from saltwater rays right? Maybe i need to read up some more about them
thanks again!
Thanks a ton, I will keep reading up on them and hopefully after christmas rolls around and the christmas cash rolls in I can get a big tank and a couple rays (after its cycled of course!).
Oh any other particular informational books I should look into? Or even interesting ones aobut origins and evolution? They evolved from saltwater rays right? Maybe i need to read up some more about them
thanks again!
'fine' grain substrate actualy works as an extra filter medium (rays move it all over the place) and is in my opinion the best way to go) for rays and bio balance).
Miles;1364709; said:Barebottom, Driftwood, No Slate
It may raise hardness but it can also leach bad minerals like copper and zinc, which tough fish like Cichlids may have no ill effects with, but can have longterm effects on rays.. or they could injure their disc on sharp edges.. Killed a puffer that way. Had some slate in with Convicts and Africans for years.. added it to a puffer tank and they all started dying?! Took it out, and the next batch did fine.
what color was it?? i have used black slate with ray no problem... i know red will leach alot of iron and so will molted colors
it had some of that rusted orange on it..molted?
black slate is good, but it's hard to find the real stuff and it's expensive when you do..
black slate is good, but it's hard to find the real stuff and it's expensive when you do..
Yeah the slate I have is called "natural slate" from home depot and its black, brown, and orange. I am not going to even risk it. If I would have known that lava rocks leeched impurities into the water I would have never put them into my saltwater tank (I couldn't even keep a turbo snail alive).
