Reverse osmosis for rays

[earthstudent]

That does seems like the next best option. Add a massive algae scrubber, or a ton of plants. That would allow you to drip less, while still keeping nitrates in check.

On a side note, I did a nitrate test on my 190g discus tank last night. Quite pleased with the results; 0ppm! I do 40g daily water changes on this via a semi-automatic setup



And for comparison, the water out of my tap:

Plants are the next piece to the puzzle for sure. Do you have plants or algae on your discus tank? You must considering your tap is higher than your tank LOL.

 

[jcardona1]

I am not quite understanding why the drip system with R/O and waist mix has to be so complicated.

I don't even think you need a mixing container if doing a constant drip. Just drip both lines into the tank. My problem was, the tank is in the middle of my living room, and I couldn't use gravity to drain the excess water out of the sump. I would have to rely on a system using float switches and solenoid to move the excess water to a nearby drain. I didn't want to go that route, so I pump the water in/out using pumps on a wireless remote control.

My aging barrel is in a coat closet, so I don't have the luxury of space or option to run the lines. Then I have the issue of trying to get a good ratio for really soft water. What if I wanted 80% RO and 10% waste? No way to keep a storage barrel automatically refilled. Could run them on separate float valves, and have the float valve for the waste water placed low in the barrel, but then I run into the issue of what will I do with the rest of the waste water while the unit is producing RO water to fill up the rest of the barrel?

 

[jcardona1]

Plants are the next piece to the puzzle for sure. Do you have plants or algae on your discus tank? You must considering your tap is higher than your tank LOL.

Nope, no plants at all! Since my water goes through an RO/DI unit, all those nitrates are stripped out. That is why my tapwater is higher in nitrates than the tank.

 

[DB junkie]

Only thing I would be concerned about is the total water volume needed.

As long as you don't need much water it might work great provided you can get it fail proof.

Might work flawlessly for a few GPH but what happens when I decide to change half the water in my 750 cause something over ate then puked, fouling the water. I bet I'm not gonna get that 375 gallons just like that out of a 5 gallon bucket.

I'd need a 500 gallon "bank" for a decent night's sleep.

This type of water plan really defeats the KISS method some of us have gotten by with for years......

 

[jcardona1]

Might work flawlessly for a few GPH but what happens when I decide to change half the water in my 750 cause something over ate then puked, fouling the water. I bet I'm not gonna get that 375 gallons just like that out of a 5 gallon bucket.

Yup, even the best units are only capable of producing 150gpd, and that's with very high water pressure. To CYA, you'd need to have a large storage container holding RO water, just in case something bad happens.

 

[earthstudent]

Doing some research I have found this place to be pretty affordable and highly recommended by some reefers I know. I have never bought anything form them myself tho. $85 shipped for a 100gpd 6 stage R/O system.

http://www.purewaterclub.com/

 

[DB junkie]

A merlin is supposed to be capable of 400 GPD.

This is the system most raykeepers use IF they choose to mess with RO.

It's sad that the only way to go with rays is over the top of overkill.....

Something bad always happens. This is why I find it so enjoyable building my own filters. Figuring out how to make it fail proof. So when something bad DOES happen (cause it will) the design still works.

Most raykeepers are incapable of baby steps. IF I'm gonna mess with RO, I'm gonna mess with it. I find it hard to believe you can do any messing with a system under $100. IF it's too good to be true it usually is.

6 stages?????

How many stages any are actually necassary?

 

[jcardona1]

A merlin is supposed to be capable of 400 GPD.

This is the system most raykeepers use IF they choose to mess with RO.

It's sad that the only way to go with rays is over the top of overkill.....

Something bad always happens. This is why I find it so enjoyable building my own filters. Figuring out how to make it fail proof. So when something bad DOES happen (cause it will) the design still works.

Most raykeepers are incapable of baby steps. IF I'm gonna mess with RO, I'm gonna mess with it. I find it hard to believe you can do any messing with a system under $100. IF it's too good to be true it usually is.

6 stages?????

How many stages any are actually necassary?

Ah yes, didn't know much about these. I see they even have one capable of doing 720gpd! Expensive, but that would take care of your giant water needs

 

[earthstudent]

Only thing I would be concerned about is the total water volume needed.

As long as you don't need much water it might work great provided you can get it fail proof.

Might work flawlessly for a few GPH but what happens when I decide to change half the water in my 750 cause something over ate then puked, fouling the water. I bet I'm not gonna get that 375 gallons just like that out of a 5 gallon bucket.

I'd need a 500 gallon "bank" for a decent night's sleep.

This type of water plan really defeats the KISS method some of us have gotten by with for years......

That would definitely end up being a problem if you had to change that much water. The only option I see is an on demand unit that can pump out enough water a day (there available but pricey) or a storage container (much more affordable) which in your case would be a space issue.

You may not need to store that much R/O water depending on how much water to mix with it to produce the end water you want. Maybe just half that would be enough?

 

[DB junkie]

That would definitely end up being a problem if you had to change that much water. The only option I see is an on demand unit that can pump out enough water a day (there available but pricey) or a storage container (much more affordable) which in your case would be a space issue.

You may not need to store that much R/O water depending on how much water to mix with it to produce the end water you want. Maybe just half that would be enough?

If there wasn't water volume equal to the tank in that system then I might only need half that. In order to change half the water on that tank's system I'd need 750 gallons of water even half and half that still means bottom line is a Merlin......

If it was as easy as buying a $100 RO and mixing it in a 5 gallon bucket then it would have been done a long time ago...

It's nice to bring you over to the hurdles we're trying to get over though. Your input is greatly appreciated.