Sani-Tred coatings for DIY tanks...

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Good call.
 
Jovial;658354; said:
Thanks for posting this. Are you lining the plywood tank with acrylic then applying the Sanitred over the acrylic?

I wonder how well it would work over fiberglass. Might use fiberglass as a redundancy in case I get a tear in the Sanitred. I really need to see how tough this stuff is when dry. If its like a polyurethane bushing then I see nothing to worry about. But if its a soft like an inner tube the potential for a small puncture could turn catastrophic. The only thing I can see about painting a flexible coating like this with epoxy is that the epoxy paint dries hard and would crack on top of a flexible surface. Kind of like painting over a tire.
So far this stuff looks like a better method of sealing then plain fiberglass/epoxy paint.

I've been validated !:mwave:

If you've got concerns of your tank flexing more than an inner tube could handle, maybe you should stay with glass...:ROFL: :ROFL: :ROFL: ...........:j/k:

A 250g wicker tank would be cool. :grinno: :screwy:

This stuff is elastic and thick. Check out their web site www.sanitred.com.

And it comes in several colors too.

Your gonna like this stuff, just follow their directions...

Get it done and lets see some pix.

Good luck,

Dr Joe

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:ROFL: Thanks Joe, but just one small detail to consider. When acrylic fails there are always signs before hand. When glass fails its catastrophic and there are no signs.

Im in the planning stage now, I already have the acrylic panels just need to figure out the best design. Am thinking a layer of the smooth concrete Hardiboard coated with Sanitred over the plywood might be the right combination. What do you think? Have you used Sanitred before?
 
Jovial;664432; said:
:ROFL: Thanks Joe, but just one small detail to consider. When acrylic fails there are always signs before hand. When glass fails its catastrophic and there are no signs.

Im in the planning stage now, I already have the acrylic panels just need to figure out the best design. Am thinking a layer of the smooth concrete Hardiboard coated with Sanitred over the plywood might be the right combination. What do you think? Have you used Sanitred before?


Only if it'stempered glass (:ROFL: ) (yea right).

I had a large non-tempered tank that had two semi-circular cracks in it for years till I finally got around to replacing the glass (it was outside and only used for aging water tho, I just wanted to see if it would last:screwy: )

I've used Sanitred on concrete and wood tanks with great success, just follow there instruction, they know what they're doing and are a great help.

Dr Joe

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Sanitred is a whole different animal.

Pond shield is thinner, more like West systems.

With pond shield very small holes and anything over a hairline crack has to be specially treated.

Pond shield can 'blush' (change color or look milky white).

Corners and joints need to be reinforced with f.glass tape with pond shield.

Pond shield does not like to be flexed very much or very often (major W/C's)

On the plus side it does come in forest green so you'd never know if the pond had algae! :D

I've used simular products but not this specific company, it looks good in the right circumstances.

Dr Joe

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Dr Joe;665491; said:
Sanitred is a whole different animal.
Dr Joe;665491; said:
Pond shield is thinner, more like West systems.

With pond shield very small holes and anything over a hairline crack has to be specially treated.

Pond shield can 'blush' (change color or look milky white).

Corners and joints need to be reinforced with f.glass tape with pond shield.

Pond shield does not like to be flexed very much or very often (major W/C's)

On the plus side it does come in forest green so you'd never know if the pond had algae!

I've used simular products but not this specific company, it looks good in the right circumstances.

Dr Joe

.

Hi, I am from Pond Armor and I would like to clarify a few things in regards to the quoted post above. No offense Dr. Joe, but a lot of what you said was either incorrect or spoken out of context in regards to what Pond Shield is, does or is capable of doing. I'd like to just fix that, if I may.

First, Pond Shield is not like West Systems epoxy. It is very different even at its core. Fir instance, Pond Shield is a non toxic epoxy and is even tested in its mixed uncured state to be sure. This means if anyone with too much zeal decides to fill their pond or tank up prior to the coating curing properly, their fish and plants will still be safe. After Pond Shield has cured, it will NOT leech off anything into your water. Some epoxies will do this and some of that material can be toxic too. Pond Shield is not. Your statement says Pond Shield is thinner like West Systems. This is just not true. Our black Pond Shield is 45,000 cps in viscosity. It happens to be the thickest we manufacture where the clear pond Shield is 15,000 cps. A lot more viscous that West Systems epoxy.

You also say that with Pond Shield very small holes or anything over a small hairline crack has to be specially treated. Again, not so. When Pond Shield is squeegeed on the surface area, it is like thousands of tiny fingers that grab hold. With a tensile bond strength that literally exceeds the internal strength of concrete, one would not have to worry about delaminating problems that latexes or rubbers can go through. In fact Pond Shield can easily bridge gaps 1/4 inch wide and with larger cracks, Pond Shield can be used to stitch the concrete back together. For instance, a larger crack can be V'd out and cleaned. Pond Shield can be then applied to the crack and it will serve as a stitch. The elongation break strength is rated at 9,500 psi. Most hairline cracks form at below 6,000 psi which means Pond Shield is designed to not mimic the formation of new hairline cracks.

You mention that Pond Shield can blush but offered no reason as to why this happens. Allow me to clarify. A blush is caused when moisture is allowed to settle of an uncured coating. The chemical change that takes place during this process will not harm the coating but instead, discolor it. A blush can easily be fixed and those steps to fix it can be found on our web site. The best way to deal with a blush though, is to avoid it by following the instructions you get with your Pond Shield. It's that simple. From my experience, the only time I ever hear about blushes, is when someone applied Pond Shield as the temperature was dropping and the dew point was rising. This usually happens later in the evening. Covering up your project is a simple but effective way of avoiding this.

Corners and joints need to be reinforced with fiberglass tape ONLY in certain circumstances. These circumstances are when the joint in the structure YOU provide is weak and prone to additional shifting because of poor structural integrity. For instance, the use of wood in a tank or pond is fine but if your corner joints are just screwed together without additional support, they may be weak. Also, if in the use of concrete you intend to utilize an existing piece of concrete along with newly poured concrete, that cold joint will be prone to movement. Each of these needs to be dealt with on a case by case basis.

Pond Shield can be flexed and can withstand a certain amount of flex all the way down to -78 degrees. (perfect for the changes that can take place during freeze/thaw cycles) What you have to remember is that unlike rubbers or latexes, epoxies are designed for strength. Therefore, if your construction is sounds and the integrity is strong, your Pond Shield coating will reflect that. However if you have a structure that wiggles around all of the time you'll always have issues. Don't be fooled for a minute thinking that a completely flexible material will not eventually fail under the stresses of constant movement.

Yes sir! Forrest green will definitely hide algae a lot better :) You may have used other company's products, but I assure you until you have tried Pond Shield, you have not used anything like it.

If any of you guys have specific questions about our products, please let me know. Dr. Joe, again, please take no offense to my reply to you. I just like to make sure that when things are posted about our product, that they are accurate.

Thanks for listening.
Butch
Pond Armor
www.pondarmor.com
800-716-1545
 
I should point out that I used pond shield on my 5000gal block tank ( dark blue )....so far so good.........no leaks and applied with a squeegie ( sp ??) it went on well
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
the 2400 was done in west system and fiberglass cloth ...... I wont do that again !!



PondArmor;665560; said:


Hi, I am from Pond Armor and I would like to clarify a few things in regards to the quoted post above. No offense Dr. Joe, but a lot of what you said was either incorrect or spoken out of context in regards to what Pond Shield is, does or is capable of doing. I'd like to just fix that, if I may.

First, Pond Shield is not like West Systems epoxy. It is very different even at its core. Fir instance, Pond Shield is a non toxic epoxy and is even tested in its mixed uncured state to be sure. This means if anyone with too much zeal decides to fill their pond or tank up prior to the coating curing properly, their fish and plants will still be safe. After Pond Shield has cured, it will NOT leech off anything into your water. Some epoxies will do this and some of that material can be toxic too. Pond Shield is not. Your statement says Pond Shield is thinner like West Systems. This is just not true. Our black Pond Shield is 45,000 cps in viscosity. It happens to be the thickest we manufacture where the clear pond Shield is 15,000 cps. A lot more viscous that West Systems epoxy.

You also say that with Pond Shield very small holes or anything over a small hairline crack has to be specially treated. Again, not so. When Pond Shield is squeegeed on the surface area, it is like thousands of tiny fingers that grab hold. With a tensile bond strength that literally exceeds the internal strength of concrete, one would not have to worry about delaminating problems that latexes or rubbers can go through. In fact Pond Shield can easily bridge gaps 1/4 inch wide and with larger cracks, Pond Shield can be used to stitch the concrete back together. For instance, a larger crack can be V'd out and cleaned. Pond Shield can be then applied to the crack and it will serve as a stitch. The elongation break strength is rated at 9,500 psi. Most hairline cracks form at below 6,000 psi which means Pond Shield is designed to not mimic the formation of new hairline cracks.

You mention that Pond Shield can blush but offered no reason as to why this happens. Allow me to clarify. A blush is caused when moisture is allowed to settle of an uncured coating. The chemical change that takes place during this process will not harm the coating but instead, discolor it. A blush can easily be fixed and those steps to fix it can be found on our web site. The best way to deal with a blush though, is to avoid it by following the instructions you get with your Pond Shield. It's that simple. From my experience, the only time I ever hear about blushes, is when someone applied Pond Shield as the temperature was dropping and the dew point was rising. This usually happens later in the evening. Covering up your project is a simple but effective way of avoiding this.

Corners and joints need to be reinforced with fiberglass tape ONLY in certain circumstances. These circumstances are when the joint in the structure YOU provide is weak and prone to additional shifting because of poor structural integrity. For instance, the use of wood in a tank or pond is fine but if your corner joints are just screwed together without additional support, they may be weak. Also, if in the use of concrete you intend to utilize an existing piece of concrete along with newly poured concrete, that cold joint will be prone to movement. Each of these needs to be dealt with on a case by case basis.

Pond Shield can be flexed and can withstand a certain amount of flex all the way down to -78 degrees. (perfect for the changes that can take place during freeze/thaw cycles) What you have to remember is that unlike rubbers or latexes, epoxies are designed for strength. Therefore, if your construction is sounds and the integrity is strong, your Pond Shield coating will reflect that. However if you have a structure that wiggles around all of the time you'll always have issues. Don't be fooled for a minute thinking that a completely flexible material will not eventually fail under the stresses of constant movement.

Yes sir! Forrest green will definitely hide algae a lot better :) You may have used other company's products, but I assure you until you have tried Pond Shield, you have not used anything like it.

If any of you guys have specific questions about our products, please let me know. Dr. Joe, again, please take no offense to my reply to you. I just like to make sure that when things are posted about our product, that they are accurate.

Thanks for listening.
Butch
Pond Armor
www.pondarmor.com
800-716-1545
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com