Setting up saltwater tank

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
That's what I was thinking. A lot of sites that I have been on just says that I should always been a 10 to 15 gallon bucket with pre mixed water in it. Would that work?


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It's definitely good to have a bucket pre mixed, that's what I do. Every time I do a water change I'll have a bucket of pre mixed water and at the end of the water change I'll mix another bucket for next time. Just make sure to heat up the pre mixed water to the right temp before adding to your tank.


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Certain damsels are not hard to catch, clown fish are a certain kind of damsel and chromis aren't hard to catch either. Fairly easy from my experience.


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Yes, however if he goes to the fish store and asks for damsels for his new tank they're not going to point him to the clowns.
 
I've realized that i should wait about 2 months after mixing the salt and putting the live rocks in before putting any fish in it and that I will be getting a protein skimmer, a heater, a Carbon reactor, the lighting for the corals and water propulsion thing. I found a chemical in Walmart that says that if I put it in it'll automatically make the water safe to put fish in. Is this true? Or is it a waist


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The instant cycle stuff is a waste. The only proven brand is biospira, and it's hit and miss.

RO water is good but not completely necessary.

It's certainly necessary if you want to do a reef and be completely sure you're not going to end up with massive algae blooms or pollutants that will harm your corals and inverts.

Whether tapwater is adequate depends on the individual persons water. Some people have ammonia in their water, especially if chloramine is used, nitrates, nitrites, high copper levels or other metals and all kinds of stuff.
At the least, most tapwater in the U.S. is relatively high in phosphates which is going to cause a struggle with pest algae unless you run it through a phosban reactor before adding it.
For a fish only tank tapwater can be completely ok, but still may lead to algae or other problems long term. Remember that tap water is just like salt water, in that when it evaporates you are still left with any salts, minerals, and metals that it contains. Those parameters are going to go higher and higher ever time you top off, and while it may not have caused problems right off the bat, you may start seeing issues several months in.
 
The instant cycle stuff is a waste. The only proven brand is biospira, and it's hit and miss.



It's certainly necessary if you want to do a reef and be completely sure you're not going to end up with massive algae blooms or pollutants that will harm your corals and inverts.

Whether tapwater is adequate depends on the individual persons water. Some people have ammonia in their water, especially if chloramine is used, nitrates, nitrites, high copper levels or other metals and all kinds of stuff.
At the least, most tapwater in the U.S. is relatively high in phosphates which is going to cause a struggle with pest algae unless you run it through a phosban reactor before adding it.
For a fish only tank tapwater can be completely ok, but still may lead to algae or other problems long term. Remember that tap water is just like salt water, in that when it evaporates you are still left with any salts, minerals, and metals that it contains. Those parameters are going to go higher and higher ever time you top off, and while it may not have caused problems right off the bat, you may start seeing issues several months in.

I'm Canadian lol


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we found a lot of the instant cycle stuff is very hit and miss with salt water, for example if u have dead live rock in your tank it wont work, if its a fish only system it seems to work 80% of the time.

as for RO water being required, I disagree, I have seen many full SPS coral tanks using tap water and a salt mix it all depends whats in your water certain areas will require it certain areas will not require it. many factors are required to be known in order to decide if you can get away with it or not most the time people just get one as its easier, for fish only tanks I have never used ro di water.

One thing I have started looking into heavily is skimmers, many research in depth shows that they only remove 30-35% TOC with very little difference between a 400$ skimmer to a 2k skimmer, so dont go out and buy the most expensive skimmer as the difference will be very little. the best way to remove your TOC is with carbon.

Heres a good read on skimmers, it goes more into depth then other forums but is backed by research.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature2

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/1/aafeature

Heres a good link for all around basics.

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/reefkeeping-made-easy-what-was-not-explained-160389.html


I personally have not found salt water as hard as they make it out or as costy as they make it sound, sure it requires a bit more attention depending which way you go, I am positive a SPS coral tank will be much harder and cost a lot more but apart from that its not very costy or hard, the hardest part is deciding whats right and whats wrong theres many mixed idea/results on forums which does make it confusing, I found talking to people who have salt water tanks and seeing how they take care of it etc what the best for me and saved money, I have seen tanks without skimmers that have been running for years and people who keep it very basic yet have very nice fish/corals.
 
I have seen many full SPS coral tanks using tap water and a salt mix it all depends whats in your water certain areas will require it certain areas will not require it.

So have I, but a lot of SPS setups are also running media reactors and good carbon reactors to keep down contaminants.
Not to mention, like I said, tapwater issues aren't always immediately detrimental, but may become apparent over time as repeated top offs raise levels of problem contaminants.

Personally, for a newb, I think starting with RO/DI is going to be cheaper and easier than messing with all that, and it's also going to prevent potential contamination problems from tapwater that would become frustrating.
You don't necessarily know your tapwater is an issue until the tank is set up and you start fighting with algae blooms, or mysterious problems with your stock. At least if you are using RO/DI you can rule out the source water as the problem, and look at other factors.

No, RO/DI is not necessary for everyone, but for people new to saltwater, and especially reefs, it eliminates the potential for water quality issues directly from your water source, and gives peace of mind, knowing that any issues that crop up at least aren't likely related to that.

I've learned first hand that it's much easier to just start with pure water than to try to rectify issues caused by tapwater and switch to RO/DI in hindsight after the tank is fully set up. Then you're looking at large water changes trying to eliminate contaminants, some of which actually get re-released by algae as it dies off. Daily water changes and algae removal are tedious (not to mention expensive), and that's something that all of us generally already have to deal with during new set up; So why risk having to deal with it long term?

Of course tapwater is fine for some of you, and I'm sure many have good luck with it, I'm not disputing that. But I think RO/DI is a good safeguard, and decent suggestion for newcomers unless they're sure of the quality of their tapwater source.

I have seen tanks without skimmers that have been running for years and people who keep it very basic yet have very nice fish/corals.

You know, I've done both, and I prefer not to have a skimmer. I haven't noticed a drastic difference in water quality and growth/health between my skimmer and skimmerless tanks, and the skimmer adds additional maintenance and potential problems.

Dr. Tim's one and only works too.

He developed Bio-Spira, so I wouldn't be surprised if they're essentially the same product, but I'm guessing they can't say that due to patent issues and stuff.

How hard is it to ask for clown fish instead of damsel?

My comment wasn't a jab at you, as you seem to have taken it.

Since the poster is new, he may not know that he'd specifically have to ask for a clownfish if that's the type of damsel he wanted, or if they gave him a "damsel" it wouldnt necessarily be a clownfish. I just don't automatically assume someone new to know the difference.

And as an aside, not all clownfish are docile either. Tomato clowns can be pretty darn belligerence, and mine was willing to attack anyone in the tank, and eat inverts.
The ocellaris and perculas are fairly docile, but no one should confuse their behavior as being indicative of all clowns.
 
You do have very good points with RO/DI, Its certainly is not easy to figure out if you can get away with it or not. must agree there would be much easier/safer for the OP to use RO/DI.

Mind sharing some knowledge on what you used when you ran no skimmer? I am looking into many of these methods now as skimmers have very ups and downs imo.
 
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