No I honestly don't. I am now understanding more that all these things are quite important and won't be neglecting in the future. I only really concentrates on ph and ammonia. But more so ph. Just once I checked ph and it was low and I noticed he wasn't doing so well .. But that was changed and I've been on top of that but none of the others. Will do from now on. Never really thought of this guy to be needing such care! But he'll get it now that's for sure , I just need to get him all cleared up I'm afraid he won't last too much longer. I'll be getting one of this test kits tonight
sick puffer, need help!
- Thread starter Pcg13
- Start date
The nitrogen cycle (ammonia-nitrites-nitrates) is something you should probably know about and understand before taking on a Fahaka Puffer. They require a large tank, pristine water (0 ammonia, o nitrites and as low nitrates as possible). It would have been wise to perhaps get an easier to care for fish first.
Ok, my rant is over. I would do the following:
1 - Buy your test kit
2 - Test water
3 - report back here
4 - depending on levels, do a XX% water change. (ask here)
5 - look to buy a 150 gallon tank.
Ok, my rant is over. I would do the following:
1 - Buy your test kit
2 - Test water
3 - report back here
4 - depending on levels, do a XX% water change. (ask here)
5 - look to buy a 150 gallon tank.
Of all the things to be worried about PH is last on the list. Most fish can adapt to whatever ph you have (A few do need a specifc ph)
Your lists of worries should be
Ammonia
Nitrates
Nitrites
Get your self a Api LIQUID test kit..ASAP.
You must know these levels, if your water is not clean and cycled your fish cannot heal.
Did you cycle the tank before adding the puffer?
Your lists of worries should be
Ammonia
Nitrates
Nitrites
Get your self a Api LIQUID test kit..ASAP.
You must know these levels, if your water is not clean and cycled your fish cannot heal.
Did you cycle the tank before adding the puffer?
Ok will do later today. Yes the tank was cycled before I put him in. I did have a few fish before my puffer, I had 2 green terrors, 2 river puffers , 2 shrimp that lasted forever surprisingly! And 1 pleco. But then I saw that fahaka and I had to have him! I got rid of everything and got my 72 thinking it was suffice. But I knew Id have to upgrade sooner or later. I'm actually looking at a 210 gallon that's pretty good deal. It's just for right now the space isn't there for anything else.
geronimo69;4790222; said:
LOL
, I did not say 1. ammonia 2. Nitrates 3. NitritesI just listed the three. I wasn't trying to list in order of importance, they are equally important..although I would probably put ammonia first if I were making a list. I tend to write nitrAtes before nitrItes as if I am alphabetizing A before I
Sorry for the confusion.
purplecandle;4790259; said:LOL
I just listed the three. I wasn't trying to list in order of importance, they are equally important..although I would probably put ammonia first if I were making a list. I tend to write nitrAtes before nitrItes as if I am alphabetizing A before I
Sorry for the confusion.
OOOOOOOOk, good. I was starting to question my knowledge
. I agree. If there was an order, ammonia #1, nitrites #2 and so forth.
It looks like Lymphocystis to me, too. If that's the case, it is pretty much fish herpes, and there isn't anything to do for it. I think he is not eating because of being in too small of an underfiltered tank (assuming), and the shoot-from-the-hip meds. I would say to put him back in the big tank, but being out of it for 2 weeks, there isn't any bio left in that tank. You can move the filter media from the QT tank to the big one, but you can expect at least a mini cycle if you do. Out of curiosity, is the water in the QT tank cloudy?
Also, (forgot to put in last post) what is the temp in the QT tank? is it drastically off form the main tank? Higher temps mean less dissolved oxygen. Also, are you doing daily water changes? If not, nitrates will build up very quickly, causing a drop in PH. Sudden or drastic (or both) changes in PH will severely stress a fish, to the point of not eating (or worse).
If you are having pH shifts in your tank (especially down), it means you aren't doing enough water changes on it. Your tank should always be at the pH of your tap water.
