Stand risers and leveling (stock type stand)

[LBDave]

Warranty is through manufacturer.

This is what I'm doing.

Modding a stock type stand

I have a stock stand for a 180 I'm hoping I can salvage. I can reinforce it no problem, but the height is not giving much clearance for a 55/75. @Fish Tank Travis was it you that added height? I can't find the thread I saw this in. Here's what I'm talking about. Just a 40b but super tight...

www.monsterfishkeepers.com

I started thinking about shims and the 4x4 idea worried me. So I started thinking of running a 2x6 for a channel for the stand to sit on then sandwiching it between 2x8s with horizontal bracing. I would get an extra few inches of clearance, but I think I just need to add more brackets then suck up the 4x4 route.

I looked at Travis's photos and what he did looks pretty stout, but I would always have some sort of stud under the top rim joist.
He is using metal clips (ticos). They are very strong but now relying on shear strength of the screws. I would use nails or pan head screws with ticos.
Bugle heads/ drywall screws are not the best (sorry Travis).
Using a tall rim such as 8" will add some shear if every vertical member is nailed or screwed. The best is a diagonal brace or plywood sheathing.
This is all coming from a construction background. I'm not an experienced aquarium stand builder.

 

[LBDave]

I looked at Travis's photos and what he did looks pretty stout, but I would always have some sort of stud under the top rim joist.
He is using metal clips (ticos). They are very strong but now relying on shear strength of the screws. I would use nails or pan head screws with ticos.
Bugle heads/ drywall screws are not the best (sorry Travis).
Using a tall rim such as 8" will add some shear if every vertical member is nailed or screwed. The best is a diagonal brace or plywood sheathing.
This is all coming from a construction background. I'm not an experienced aquarium stand builder.

And I am not sure about warranties. I would concentrate on building something right and what you want. Who is the manufacturer?

 

[Ulu]

I would build a ladder frame from 2x6 doug fir using two long rails and four short rungs, so 6 pieces. Make the frame 1/2" or 3/4" bigger all around use (3) #12 screws per joint. I pre-drill holes so nothing splits. Glue the joints with Titebond or Elmer's.
Then sheet the top with 1/2" exterior grade sheathing & paint. Glue it to the 2x6s and screw 4~6" oc. with #8 flatheads or bugleheads edges and field.

Flip it all upside down and Glue it, then screw to the bottom of the stand. Add additional cleats inside the base as required to attach it securely if the original stand has thin rims.

 

[PYRU]

I looked at Travis's photos and what he did looks pretty stout, but I would always have some sort of stud under the top rim joist.
He is using metal clips (ticos). They are very strong but now relying on shear strength of the screws. I would use nails or pan head screws with ticos.
Bugle heads/ drywall screws are not the best (sorry Travis).
Using a tall rim such as 8" will add some shear if every vertical member is nailed or screwed. The best is a diagonal brace or plywood sheathing.
This is all coming from a construction background. I'm not an experienced aquarium stand builder.

No I appreciate the input. This is a crude representation of what I was talking about with 2x8s. We're getting into custom stand frame territory though.

 

[Ulu]

Too much lumber that does too little.

Are you trying to increase sump clearance?

Or just make the tank look higher?

 

[LBDave]

No I appreciate the input. This is a crude representation of what I was talking about with 2x8s. We're getting into custom stand frame territory though.

View attachment 1375626

As I understand it from the sketch you are essentially solid blocking under the stand using a 2X6 with 2X8's to lock it into the stand.
The only concern would be that this could rack. Is there any room to put some joist type braces from one side to the other?
Essentially creating a solid platform. Maybe overkill but a thought.

 

[LBDave]

As I understand it from the sketch you are essentially solid blocking under the stand using a 2X6 with 2X8's to lock it into the stand.
The only concern would be that this could rack. Is there any room to put some joist type braces from one side to the other?
Essentially creating a solid platform. Maybe overkill but a thought.

When I say rack I mean the blocking assembly tipping over. Rotating.

 

[PYRU]

I would build a ladder frame from 2x6 doug fir using two long rails and four short rungs, so 6 pieces. Make the frame 1/2" or 3/4" bigger all around use (3) #12 screws per joint. I pre-drill holes so nothing splits. Glue the joints with Titebond or Elmer's.
Then sheet the top with 1/2" exterior grade sheathing & paint. Glue it to the 2x6s and screw 4~6" oc. with #8 flatheads or bugleheads edges and field.

Flip it all upside down and Glue it, then screw to the bottom of the stand. Add additional cleats inside the base as required to attach it securely if the original stand has thin rims.

Dang engineers always blowing the budget

The point of the rise is clearance to service a skimmer. The frame needs to be fairly open so the 75 can sit on the concrete

 

[PYRU]

As I understand it from the sketch you are essentially solid blocking under the stand using a 2X6 with 2X8's to lock it into the stand.
The only concern would be that this could rack. Is there any room to put some joist type braces from one side to the other?
Essentially creating a solid platform. Maybe overkill but a thought.

Yes.

I could probably get rid of the outside 2x8. The 2 boards running vertical on either side of the sump are joints.

 

[PYRU]

Too much lumber that does too little.

Are you trying to increase sump clearance?

Or just make the tank look higher?

Increase clearance. Yeah I agree overkil but it's just the initial idea to give people a pic of what I'm talking about.

Boards are free from buddies remodel.

Transporting them in a compact car since my truck is waiting on tires...the struggle is real