Stingray death curl?

SHARK13

Aimara
MFK Member
Oct 29, 2012
816
839
130
Belly looks pretty good. I bet he's not digging the no substrate. Prob having a hard time walking around on the glass. In combination with what raynado said.

On another note if I were you I wouldn't mess with your pH unless absolutely necessary. You are setting yourself up for failure there. Rays will tolerate a pretty wide range pH. What's it at now? And what are you trying to achieve?
 

fiire

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 19, 2011
38
3
38
Western Australia
Belly looks pretty good. I bet he's not digging the no substrate. Prob having a hard time walking around on the glass. In combination with what raynado said.

On another note if I were you I wouldn't mess with your pH unless absolutely necessary. You are setting yourself up for failure there. Rays will tolerate a pretty wide range pH. What's it at now? And what are you trying to achieve?
I agree with you, I've never messed with the pH and I dont intend to unless I have no choice. I've really never tested my pH because I've never changed it so I am unsure. I will not use any pH products.

Its weird because he was born into a barebottom tank and has been barebottom until i bought him home
 

davenmandy

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Feb 1, 2012
1,781
459
122
It's just an adjustment for him I think. You have to look at these things as infants man, depending how old of course but theyre pretty useless and sensitive when they are really young, removing sand or too quick water change can certainly bother them enough to show some weird behavior.
 

fiire

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 19, 2011
38
3
38
Western Australia
It's just an adjustment for him I think. You have to look at these things as infants man, depending how old of course but theyre pretty useless and sensitive when they are really young, removing sand or too quick water change can certainly bother them enough to show some weird behavior.
Yeah fair call mate. I will definitely try to be more careful with drastic changes. Thanks everyone for all your help. I will keep you guys updated.

On the upside I've nearly gotten him off earthworms onto pellets! (He eats worm juice soaked pellets now and is only starting to chew on normal pellets)
 

BMac91

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2011
433
107
61
Alabama
Also would you guys reccomend I put the sand back in?
I am not highly experienced in this area yet, as I have only had my first ray for a few weeks, but I think right now the best thing would be to leave the tank as is and let things settle. Adding sand back can be stressful as well, more stuff happening the tank that doesn't typically happen, etc.
You can always had it back later if he is still acting funny a few days from now.
Just my opinion.
 
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CANAMONSTER

Redtail Catfish
MFK Member
Dec 5, 2012
2,978
985
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Barrie
I have had some problems with rays recently, best thing to do man is leave everything alone shut the lights and forget you have a ray. Just dump food in and walk away. Check on him in a week. Best thing for our minds. The more we stress the easier it is to mess up
 

millerkid519

Aimara
MFK Member
Feb 16, 2015
2,251
931
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stratford ontario canada
I had this problem when I took my pups from a substrate tank to a bare bottom tank they would be completely fine then freak out for no reason like CANAMONSTER CANAMONSTER said lights off and leave him be. Check in a week and you'll see a difference
 

Peckoltia

Dovii
MFK Member
Dec 22, 2005
687
275
102
I've had a quick look through this thread, and the thing that stands out to be is your tanks KH is very low. I maintain both my GH and KH at 9-10.

KH - carbonate hardness/temporary hardness - is the buffering capacity if your water, and is your waters capacity to resist changes in pH. That is, water with low buffering capacity (low KH) are much more susceptible to large scale swings in pH due to other conditions in your aquarium. This is often a water parameter that is overlooked by Ray keepers (and other aquarium keepers). There is also an additional benefit of raising KH, it has a positive effect on your biological filtration, particularly for people running bead filters/K media. At roughly a KH of roughly 8.0 + your biological filtration will be 'supercharged'.

You said you don't test your pH (I do on the very rare occasion), but I have my KH buffered very high with Sodium Bicarbonate. The potential for my pH to crash is extremely low. By dosing KH with Sodium Bicarbonate it will also increase your pH to a maximum of 8.3. So, before doing with Sodium Bicarbonate it would be extremely important to test you pH to ensure that it is not low and you aren't bringing it up very fast, rather do it over a period of a couple weeks in very small increments.

Without ever testing your pH and maintaining a low temporary hardness, you really do open yourself up to sudden changes in pH within your aquarium. Like people have said, the actual pH is generally unimportant especially with multi generation captive animals, a stable pH is far more critical, and thus why KH is such an important factor. Like I said my pH is around 8.3, far higher than most people would recommend with rays, but my rays thrive, grow fast, and reproduce readily. This is largely attributed to a high KH/GH which maintain stable conditions and promote beneficial bacteria within my biological filtration and other aquarium surfaces,

It is always amazing at how often KH/GH is overlooked.
 
Last edited:

CANAMONSTER

Redtail Catfish
MFK Member
Dec 5, 2012
2,978
985
150
Barrie
I've had a quick look through this thread, and the thing that stands out to be is your tanks KH is very low. I maintain both my GH and KH at 9-10.

KH - carbonate hardness/temporary hardness - is the buffering capacity if your water, and is your waters capacity to resist changes in pH. That is, water with low buffering capacity (low KH) are much more susceptible to large scale swings in pH due to other conditions in your aquarium. This is often a water parameter that is overlooked by Ray keepers (and other aquarium keepers). There is also an additional benefit of raising KH, it has a positive effect on your biological filtration, particularly for people running bead filters/K media. At roughly a KH of roughly 8.0 + your biological filtration will be 'supercharged'.

You said you don't test your pH (I do on the very rare occasion), but I have my KH buffered very high with Sodium Bicarbonate. The potential for my pH to crash is extremely low. By dosing KH with Sodium Bicarbonate it will also increase your pH to a maximum of 8.3. So, before doing with Sodium Bicarbonate it would be extremely important to test you pH to ensure that it is not low and you aren't bringing it up very fast, rather do it over a period of a couple weeks in very small increments.

Without ever testing your pH and maintaining a low temporary hardness, you really do open yourself up to sudden changes in pH within your aquarium. Like people have said, the actual pH is generally unimportant especially with multi generation captive animals, a stable pH is far more critical, and thus why KH is such an important factor. Like I said my pH is around 8.3, far higher than most people would recommend with rays, but my rays thrive, grow fast, and reproduce readily. This is largely attributed to a high KH/GH which maintain stable conditions and promote beneficial bacteria within my biological filtration and other aquarium surfaces,

It is always amazing at how often KH/GH is overlooked.
Great point! My pH is also 8.2. I have not tested KH but I do know my water is very hard.
My tap water actually comes out at just under 7 and in 24hrs it is 8.2

My question is if your not messing around with your water why would you have to bring up the KH ? What could cause ph fluctuations at a low KH if you are doing your do dillegents and proper husbandry?
 
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