Sump help needed

[BIG-G]

I think for a freshwater system, keeping a basic design with mechanical,biological and then equipment like heaters and return pump will be sufficient.
The extra baffling is fine in a saltwater system where you may want to separate other equipment like dosers or protein skimming, but simply not necessary in a freshwater sump.


If heaters are placed in the sump just remember to add them in a area that will not run dry.

One tip I picked up on is to place the media in a basket or mesh bag. It makes it a lot easier to take out and rinse if need be.
I usually go for either two or three chamber sump at the most. I like knowing that the biological media is kept separate from my return.
I know a lot of guys that just run an open tank with no baffling at all.

 

[duanes]

I've using sumps on fresh water since the mid 80s, butI don't use baffles (I find them a PIA to work around, and restrictive).
But the beauty of a sump is that it is only restricted by your imagination as to how to set it up.
For me filter socks hanging on the side where water enters,

some square blocks of Porrett foam to further polish water,
I then lay mesh bags of bio-media (anything from ceramic rings, bio-balls or lava rock,

doesn't matter because they "all" grow significant amounts of beneficial bacteria, and then equipment like heaters and pumps, or what ever you want to add (plants to eat nitrate, sea shells, or aragonite for buffering, fluidized media, protein skimming ) Its all about how intricate you want to get.

 

[Andy in Stanton]

I think you are spot on with what D chamber was used for.

I may be the minority, but there is value in that chamber if the OP decides to use an ATO even for freshwater. Here's why: I'm OCD about Herbie or BA running as quiet as possible. When the sump water level evaporates (especially not having lids), the head pressure can vary which causes the pump to run differently. The ATO helps maintain water level longer in between manually topping off. In my experience the constant water level maintains the "exact" return rate. Not a big deal in some cases, but great if you want virtually silent in a living space.

Thank you. I like it when things make sense and that explains it perfectly so it is staying!

 

[Andy in Stanton]

I think for a freshwater system, keeping a basic design with mechanical,biological and then equipment like heaters and return pump will be sufficient.
The extra baffling is fine in a saltwater system where you may want to separate other equipment like dosers or protein skimming, but simply not necessary in a freshwater sump.


If heaters are placed in the sump just remember to add them in a area that will not run dry.

One tip I picked up on is to place the media in a basket or mesh bag. It makes it a lot easier to take out and rinse if need be.
I usually go for either two or three chamber sump at the most. I like knowing that the biological media is kept separate from my return.
I know a lot of guys that just run an open tank with no baffling at all.

Thank you, keeping things simple definitely works for me.

 

[Andy in Stanton]

I've using sumps on fresh water since the mid 80s, butI don't use baffles (I find them a PIA to work around, and restrictive).
But the beauty of a sump is that it is only restricted by your imagination as to how to set it up.
For me filter socks hanging on the side where water enters,

some square blocks of Porrett foam to further polish water,
I then lay mesh bags of bio-media (anything from ceramic rings, bio-balls or lava rock,

doesn't matter because they "all" grow significant amounts of beneficial bacteria, and then equipment like heaters and pumps, or what ever you want to add (plants to eat nitrate, sea shells, or aragonite for buffering, fluidized media, protein skimming ) Its all about how intricate you want to get.

Thank you. Appears keeping things simple is definitely the way to go. Appreciate the pictures, all very helpful.