Sump problem- help asap please

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Is that your rule about sump size or is this a general rule I am not aware of? I look at some salt forums, and those guys frequently use small sumps. I just started up my 3rd one, and see plenty of others that are no where near 1/3. My understanding from doing some plumbing research is that ball valves are more easily fine tuned. I use them, but have never compared myself.

Is your tank acrylic? If yes, why not drain the overflows and drill larger holes. Why not change your returns to 3/4"? Then you won't need to worry about adjusting valves. Can you cover all or at least a portion of the sump to decrease evaporation and splash? I just set up a new tank that has a small sump and was losing water to both conditions. I put a lid to a styrofoam cooler over it. I cut notches out of it. I completely stopped any splash and I am sure it will slow evaporation.

No it's a general rule of thumb on MFK and we don't do most things the same as salties. Gate valves are better for fine adjustment.


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No it's a general rule of thumb on MFK and we don't do most things the same as salties. Gate valves are better for fine adjustment.


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Gate valves offer more control, but you don't need a sump 1/3 your tank volume for fresh water. Plenty of sump setups around here in the 20-25% range that work just fine. Especially on a drip to auto top off ...




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No it's a general rule of thumb on MFK and we don't do most things the same as salties. Gate valves are better for fine adjustment.


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Hmmmm........been on here 5 years. Didn't see it being a "rule of thumb". Yeah, I know "we" don't do most things the same as salties. I mentioned it because they have to be even more conscience of water due to salinity. Have had a 240 on a 50 gal sump successfully a long time.

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I have a 75g sump on my 225. I find it to be extreme overkill. But I wouldn't have it any other way. I run it a tad over 3/4 full. I also run both siphon breaks AND check valves.
 
Please don't get me wrong. I don't advocate using the smallest sump you can. Quite the opposite. I am jealous of guys that have sumps 50% or more of tank size. I'm just saying you don't have to have one to be successful.

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gate valve.
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x2 If you need to fine tune the water flow gate valves will work best.

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x2 and this I learned the hard way....restrict the output on the pump not the input.


Im running 1in durso's wide open and a 1in return on a 14-1600gph return pump wide open with my only fluctuations coming from evap.
 
Is that your rule about sump size or is this a general rule I am not aware of? I look at some salt forums, and those guys frequently use small sumps. I just started up my 3rd one, and see plenty of others that are no where near 1/3. My understanding from doing some plumbing research is that ball valves are more easily fine tuned. I use them, but have never compared myself.

I agree, I run small sumps on my setups....I use a 10g on my 125g and a 40g on my 300g but neither will overflow in a power outage and they both work just fine. As far as the gate valves I run both ball valves and gate valves and gate valves are easier to fine tune without a doubt ime.
 
Any way you could post a pic of just the wet/dry? Wet dry's(bioballs, drip trays, baffles) have a much different usable internal volume than sumps run with submerged media. Sumps usually handle fluctuations better than wet drys because most of it is full of water. Wet-dry's are more full of air due to the the bio-ball design, which needs it's media exposed to air.

A 50 gallon sump can probably hold 45 gallons of water. A 50 gallon wet-dry might only have half that at best....
 
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