Tank Leveling Advice.......Please!

[David K. Bradley]

I like this idea. THe only thing I might also look at doing was to pour the self leveling concrete into the form but on a sheet of heavy platic sheeting so it doesnt bond to the floor. That way, when you move or tear the tank down you dont have a weird place on the floor.

Ross, I like your idea of using the heavy plastic sheet under the concrete self leveling mix. I do not think the roofing felt idea is very plausible. It might be cheaper in the long run, but you get cheap results sometimes with cheap materials. Additionally, the plastic can be fitted/folded into the corners of the form boards and will prevent leaking when the mud is poured. Roofing doesn't prevent leaks to well when it's folded.

 

[808chicla]

they both kinda suck lol... sorry..why not pour a concrete pad level and set tank on that?...5 or 6 bags 5000psi self leveling concrete , mesh and 2x4 frame ...id say off the top of my head $50 mat'l and a days work...depends on how thick you want pad...

im sure someone on here knows min thickness for a pad this size? ill guess and say 2 " at shallow end (2.75'' low end)

Agreed!!!

 

[Egon]

This looks good but use a longer piece of wood to get under the uprights and maybe go 1/4 thicker, then use 1/4 shim on the other side. The 1/4 inch side will compress a little and distribute the weight evenly over the tile........no divorce.

There's a comment about the height of the shim. Honestly, it doesn't matter if your shimming 1/4 inch or 3 miles (just to make a point). It's like swimming in the deep end of a pool. Doesn't matter if it's 12 feet deep or a mile..............If the stand can handle a 1/4 inch shim it can handle 3/4 inch shim lol. That stand is strong and I don't see any "shear" type welds where the weight is distributed on the weld. So the weld strength is not critical. Of course the stronger the weld the better, but just to make a point: If the tank was perfectly level and there's no movement or water slashing around it would hold that weight with out welds. The welds are holding the stand together for lateral stress not vertical. The critical part is the leveling of the stand not the height of the shims. Get the stand level and there will be minimal stress on the welds.

 

[Doc_Polit]

I picked up two 5' chunks of rough-cut fir today. They are roughly 2x4 and they are solid.

Much stronger compression strength than pine/spruce.

So I truly only need to shim under the upright supports?

The structure had me thinking that the weight would be distributed evenly across the whole bottom frame.

What would be the advantage to adding a 1/4" shim to the high end as opposed to letting it rest on the floor?

 

[dmopar74]

shim the uprights only, will take you 10 minutes and last a lifetime.

 

[naten]

All the weight is on the uprights. If you don't believe us... put a shim in between two of the uprights and watch the bottom rail bend. I'm not sure why people on here feel the need to scare people. "keep it simple" really does work.

 

[Egon]

What would be the advantage to adding a 1/4" shim to the high end as opposed to letting it rest on the floor?

Protect the tile. You said something about the tile being important to your wife? It would prevent scratching or nicks in the tile...

 

[Clay]

meh. Delete. I read more of the thread.

 

[paulW]

My basement floor is a concrete slab.

Naturally, the location that I have chosen for my 180-gallon tank is out of level 3/4" from left to right over the 6' span.

In trying to determine the best method to get my stand (1.5 square steel tubing) level, I have narrowed my choices to 2.

Option 1 - Rip down dimensional lumber (2"x4") to support/offset the entire length of the "gap". Shim would be cut very slightly higher to account for compression once the tank is full.

Option 2 - Install these (http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,40993,41283). I am thinking that rather than use screws I would have them "tack" welded in place. I would place 1 at each corner and 1 (front and back) at the center support.

Please give me your thoughts. Which would you choose? Why?

Thanks!

Don't weld those.. they might have zinc in them.. Don't want you to get zinc poisoning.

It might not be a bad idea to put the levelers on to level the stand without the tank filled.. Then shim under the stand to support the weight.

 

[paulW]

Oh, and as a side note.. I had to shim the stand for my 300 gallon tank. Just used regular cedar shims. Stand was made out of 3/4" plywood and oak.. It has been fine for years.