Tat has a disease!!!! NEED HELP ASAP
- Thread starter PayaraMan
- Start date
vamptrev;4345770; said:
Oh, I added 11 tablespoons since it said a tablespoon per 5 gallons, And do I add the salt everyday?
If I am you, I will add whole 1KG salt in. Of course, slowly you add, not suddenly.
Is the skin ok? Any skin-abrasion kind of appearance?
Is the skin ok? Any skin-abrasion kind of appearance?
1st you need to calm down least you poison your fish and kill it with your hast.
The good news is it's external. 2nd you need to understand what and why you are doing water changes and salt. Externals treated with salts need to run their life cycle. By increasing the Temp you are excellerating it's metabolizim thus shortening it's lifespan. When you increase the temps the amount of dissolved oxygen decreases thus fish will breath heavily. Adding oxygen thru powerhead circulation or directly into the water thru airstones helps increase dissolved O2. The salt is not a cure, it will not kill the mature parasites attached to the body - it will help remove them by burning the fishes scales stimulating slim coat regeneration. The flucuation of the waters salinity will also kill it's free floating offspring as they cannot adapt quick enuff thus preventing re-infection once the host parasites have lived their lives. It takes 2-5 days for Ich to live a full life. If it is not Ich, Velvet, or Cottonwool and the bumps turn pink and then into lessions the treatment is the same. This is Lymphocystis- there is no cure however sometimes fish can live long lives with Lymph with small reoccurances if the water quality is pristine and their is minimal stress on the fish. If you overdose the fish w/ salts or Meds you can stress them which can lead to all sorts of problems as their immune systems drop under stressful conditions - ie don't stand their and stare at it all day.
As for when to add the salt -after the 1st treatment only after you add water and no more than 1tps per 5 gal max. If things are getting outta hand - ie your fish is covered in spider webs - than Mardel's Cletted Cooper may be your last resort, cooper in the water is a whole different story so hopfully it doesn't come to that.
Bottom line - good clean (ammonia/nitrate free) water, a low stress enviorment, plenty of dissloved oxygen, and good healthy foods (non- carp like) will cure your fish. Best of Luck and your pics are way too blurry for any type of ID.
The good news is it's external. 2nd you need to understand what and why you are doing water changes and salt. Externals treated with salts need to run their life cycle. By increasing the Temp you are excellerating it's metabolizim thus shortening it's lifespan. When you increase the temps the amount of dissolved oxygen decreases thus fish will breath heavily. Adding oxygen thru powerhead circulation or directly into the water thru airstones helps increase dissolved O2. The salt is not a cure, it will not kill the mature parasites attached to the body - it will help remove them by burning the fishes scales stimulating slim coat regeneration. The flucuation of the waters salinity will also kill it's free floating offspring as they cannot adapt quick enuff thus preventing re-infection once the host parasites have lived their lives. It takes 2-5 days for Ich to live a full life. If it is not Ich, Velvet, or Cottonwool and the bumps turn pink and then into lessions the treatment is the same. This is Lymphocystis- there is no cure however sometimes fish can live long lives with Lymph with small reoccurances if the water quality is pristine and their is minimal stress on the fish. If you overdose the fish w/ salts or Meds you can stress them which can lead to all sorts of problems as their immune systems drop under stressful conditions - ie don't stand their and stare at it all day.
As for when to add the salt -after the 1st treatment only after you add water and no more than 1tps per 5 gal max. If things are getting outta hand - ie your fish is covered in spider webs - than Mardel's Cletted Cooper may be your last resort, cooper in the water is a whole different story so hopfully it doesn't come to that.
Bottom line - good clean (ammonia/nitrate free) water, a low stress enviorment, plenty of dissloved oxygen, and good healthy foods (non- carp like) will cure your fish. Best of Luck and your pics are way too blurry for any type of ID.
Otherone;4346557; said:
good advice. As i originally said, you need lots of air if you bump the temp with a tat and i mean loads. Heat removes dissolved air and as fish from high oxygen waters they struggle without. It is almost 100% ich and as long as you do what has been recommended it will be fine. One thing to remember is that it will get worse before it gets better.
Thanks for all the advice guys, I've done everything I was told to do and I still woke up to a dead Tat 
Yikes! If it's any consolation Hydrolycus is a difficult species to raise in captivity and many of us, including myself, have gone thru the exact same thing. The only thing I can say is - get back on the horse and Go Monster! Bigger tanks, more filtration, cleaner water, increasing dissolved oxygen, greater effort in feeding healthy foods - this will yeild the best results with Payara. It's not your fault if the tank was cycled and the fish was sick @ purchase. I am very sorry for your lose.
Go flagtail! They are very hardy...