The B team

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I really don't think I'm keeping them any differently then they were previously kept. Diet is the same, primarely shrimp, along with fish and homemade stuff.

There seems to be intrest in breeding, quite a bit, if there wasn't I'm sure the seperated female would have never quite eating and she'd have lots of her disk back.....

Doesn't really seem to me to be an issue with them breeding, but rather the females carrying full term. Last time my 2 biggest proven girls had pups they each only had 1.

I'm gonna try the RO without DI to start with but the whole ratio thing will be a mystery until I have stuff to measure TDS, PH, conductivity, etc, as I have NO clue where I'm at numberwise. I've always tried to keep it simple and just WC if I see anything goofy but maybe in extreme cases it takes more of a head on approach to nail down the root of the problem.

Icing on the cake...... A Dorado got munched tonight and while fishing out the spine I noticed my big air pump quit. No more air driven bio reactors. Needless to say after solving that problem I may be a believer in using the draining water to turn the media rather then relying on air. I think the best approach is to just use the stuff (K1) in multiple different ways then no matter what way works best you have it incorporated. The draining water sure seems to tumble the stuff harder. Hugh - Sorry I doubted you.

sorry,but i gave to disagree with you.the whole concept behind k1/k3 is super oxygenating the media using air stones not by simply moving the media.providing all that oxygen to the media is sopose to create healthier bacteria and promote growth of the bacteria.look at all the big systems out there..example is mike h20's set-up..a huge vat with airdriven media. i think you (and hugh) are making huge mistakes not using air.
 
sorry,but i gave to disagree with you.the whole concept behind k1/k3 is super oxygenating the media using air stones not by simply moving the media.providing all that oxygen to the media is sopose to create healthier bacteria and promote growth of the bacteria.look at all the big systems out there..example is mike h20's set-up..a huge vat with airdriven media. i think you (and hugh) are making huge mistakes not using air.
You are right about the super Oxy Absolutly 100%!!!!! But i think Ifd you have your reactor or moving bed in an area where you can have the water Crash into the media you not only get more movement but the added benefit of free Oxy and can get away with smaller air pumps ..Or if enough water movement say 3000 plus gph possably get away without an air pump harnesing air naturally depending on how far away the water drain is away from the top of the moving bed ....Whole problem for some would definatly be the noise created especially if in an area where you do not want to hear this so some sort of a cover would have to be put into place ....
 
I agree w cj. The whole concept of a bio reactor is the air pump. Without the air pump u should just disconnect the reactor because its not doing much. There is a certain amount of air needed to power a certain amount of media, without being scaled right u will also not see great results.

Hope u can solve your water issue somehow. When watching your video you can just tell there is something wrong. All the rays are basically just sitting there doing nothing which is deff not normal behavior.


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sorry,but i gave to disagree with you.the whole concept behind k1/k3 is super oxygenating the media using air stones not by simply moving the media.providing all that oxygen to the media is sopose to create healthier bacteria and promote growth of the bacteria.look at all the big systems out there..example is mike h20's set-up..a huge vat with airdriven media. i think you (and hugh) are making huge mistakes not using air.
and you may just be right on not having them tumble that way i was just saying there is more then one way to skin a cat that's all....
 
It's not like I have a choice right now. The air pump is messed up. Rebuild kits on the way. I am NOT going to change to no air in the reactors. I am however changing the reactors. Solid 55 gallon drums that I can't reach the bottom of and can't see what's going on inside are a joke. I'll be using them for water storage and dumping the K1 in something else. I WILL however incorporate the free power of the draining water to aid in boiling the media. I see how hard it's tossing that stuff around and I can't belive that's not going to aid in knocking the dead stuff off. Another bonus is the way I have it set up right now I don't have to worry about mum acumulating on the bottom of the drum.

How is a bubble from an air pump different then a bubble made from falling water? Isn't a bubble a bubble? Rich oxygenated water in the wild doesn't come from air pumps...... :)

Here's a vid of my "band aid" till i get pump parts. The funny thing is all I had to do was take one of my bio towers that I removed a few weeks ago and flip it over. The drip tray for the wet dry doubles as a screen for the bottom of this makeshift reactor...... :) I really like being able to see the media boil. I messed with redirecting the water for about an hour to achieve the best boil.

I'd never dedicate a system to one means of bio. That one source fails and bad things could happen. I use several differnt means so even if the reactor went down while I was away there's still 50 lbs of ceramic rings and that huge wet/dry. I know you only grow enough bio to accomodate the load but seems to me that if you have several deiffernt means no matter if one or 2 fail there's always one that's in tact so even if there isn't bio there's atleast a decent enviroment for it.

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I am not really that knowledgeable about good end air pumps, could you guys recommend a high output pump that would work?
 
I am not really that knowledgeable about good end air pumps, could you guys recommend a high output pump that would work?

It's hard to beat the Pondmasters for the $. I run the same thing H20 Mike does. I think AP100 is the #. Mine just quit but if it only costs $10 to rebuild them then even rebuilding every year it's still way cheaper then most pumps with similar specs.... They're fairly quiet too....
 
i like the alita's..i have many and none have ever let me down.george garcia on aquabid sells them cheap, drop shipped from the manufactuer.
 
i like the alita's..i have many and none have ever let me down.george garcia on aquabid sells them cheap, drop shipped from the manufactuer.

Which ones are you using?

The Alita AL 80 is $100 more then the pondmaster. It does roughly 1/2 the CFM at 1/3 the pressure. The pondmaster only uses 15 more watts.

But if they're reliable (which they must be w/ a 3yr warranty) then they would definetly be worth it in the long run.

Nothing beats ponying up the loot for these fancy pumps, then doing it again just so you have a new pump to back up that new pump. :(
 
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