Treating Ick on Pikes

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Cichlidgeek

Cichlidgeek

Piranha
MFK Member
Apr 18, 2005
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New Jersey
I have treated ICK/ICH on fishes more times than I could ever count, but my current bout with the parasite is really pissing me off.

My current infestation is very minor in the sense that only a couple pikes have just a small number of spots on them. All fish are eating and acting completely normal. They do have a darkened coloration, but that always seems to go hand-in-hand with protozoan outbreaks on fishes.

Anyway, can I get some treatments that others have administered in the hopes of me trying something new to be done with this current bout, please!!!!

:nilly:

Thanks in advance!!!! :)
 
I Would suggest either the salt treatment or clout. Clout cures all
 
Brian ~ I always just bump my temps up to 86 degrees and add aquarium salt (the kind in the 'milk carton', not marine') for eight days. I do 40% water changes three times during those eight days, and replace the same amount of salt that I removed. By the end of the treatment I normally have about 3 tablespoons per 10gal of water. Its a little much, but as long as you bump that aeration up they should be fine. DEFINITELY bump the aeration up, especially with those multis.

I'm sure you know, but Ich can only be killed really in the free swimming, larvae stage, when they are the white dots they are pretty much immune. Or at least thats what I've come to understand, correct me if I am wrong. Anyway, thats the main reason for doing it for eight days at least is because its the full gestation period for them. The water changes help to remove any that might be swimming around as well.

 
Like Jer said, bump up the temps to speed up the life cycle, no need for "aquarium" salt, just get a bag of solar salt (pure water softener salt - no binders in it), you can usually get a 50lb bag for about four bucks.
 
My favorite ich treatment is QuickCure. I don't mess with the temp, I don't add salt. I just dose the QuickCure. That being said, depending on the severity of the outbreak I sometimes use the medication in a dosage greater than what is recommended. I'll use 25% more than what's recommended and sometimes dose 12 hours apart instead of the usual 24. Works like a charm every time.

A lot of times I add it to the tank after a large water change or when adding new fish regardless of how they look.
 
That stuff works as well, but, like Clout, your "clear" silicone will turn a lovely blue/green shade, if that's not a problem, it is quicker than the salt and heat method.
 
Thanks guys. I really appreciate the advice and suggestions. I have had the temp up to about 85 for the last five days in combination with the proper dosage of QuickCure. The outbreak actually has gotten worse in just the last day, just after a 60% water change, and I am now going to increase the aggressiveness of my medication.

Toying with the idea of a potassium permanganate treatment if this doesn't work!!
 
High heat and salt should work. I just treated all my tanks a few weeks ago. I brought in some fish and suddenly every tank in my house had ich, even though I QT'd. :(

I put the heat at 86F in every tank and did the salt treatment listed in the disease section of this forum for 10 days. Then I left the heat high for another week afterward before bumping it back down, just to be safe.
 
If possible, large water changes before every re-treatment improve the efficacy of the medication and simultaneously lessen the bacterial load in the tank, diminishing the chance of secondary infections and medication binding/removal. On those occasions where ich pops up in my tanks, I prefer Rid-Ich, but remember to never increase the dose, rather lessen the period between doses (and be cautious when doing this!). As synergistic as malachite green and formalin are, they are still toxic chemicals and should be treated as such.

I think it is also important to remember that there are strains of ich that are temp independent; high heat can have a beneficial effect on many strains (by lessening the period of feeding on the host), but not all.
 
I just had this issue with a new puffer I picked up.. med sensitive fish.. and bumped the temp up to 90 for a few days.. seemed to do the trick alonge with 60%+ WC's for the first 3 days. high temp increases the parasites life cycle.. and like stated when it's free-floating it's most vulnerable.. the water changes literally remove the parasite if the temps don't kill it. I'm very leery about useing meds.. particulalr copper based. as it tends to destroy your beneficial bacteria colony. also make 100% sure it's Ick and not Velvet. silly I know.. but i'm amazed how often the 2 get mistaken.
 
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