Trying new Nitrate product out Szat clear water

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Just Toby

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Apr 22, 2010
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Guildford UK
Us stingray keepers always need to keep an eye on Nitrates as our Rays are ammonia machines, my set up is on auto drip overflow to waste 30gallons per day and pothos growing outside the tank with roots in water.

My tap water used to be over 50ppm and higher but dropped to below 10ppm on a low range test kit.

I tend to do ad-hoc 10% to 40% water changes when I clean the glass so either weekly or less.

Until recently I have not bothered to test nitrate as always assumed it was very low.

I have 360 gallon tank with a 22 inch female marble and a 2ft fire eel.

Recently tested the tap water and it has risen to 25ppm and tested my tank at just over 50ppm nothing bad but I want to run as low as possible and it also interests me.

I have run vodka fed denitrators in the past but found them fiddly.

I also used ion exchange resins with great effect.

Recently I saw a post about Szat Clearwater resin and thought I would order some from IP discus in Scotland who is U.K. Supplier of Tony Dan discus.

It is a resin in a bag and I have put two of the largest bags in the sump. It has gone in at 50ppm nitrate and I will test in 1 week to see without changing anything else.

You can recharge it in salt water 300 times. I paid about £80 for two of the 600l tank ones.

I do not have any affiliation to them and I will be honest with the results, I hope it works well but do not have anything to prove if it does or does not.

THE BIG MESSAGE IS, I don't care if you think you have the best setup in the world, test your tap water and your tank for nitrate using a good test kit, not a dip strip. I am also not going to argue if Nitrate is bad for Rays or not, I believe it is bad for all fish. Those with high nitrates often argue it isn't bad and those with low say it is, read what you want in to that, I am not going to try and convince anyone what to believe.
 
My curiosity made me do a test this morning assuming it might already have done its thing...so far no change at all. I wonder if it works well just sitting in the sump, it might need flow forced through it...will wait and see.
 
Just had a chat with Mark at IP Discus and he thinks I need 24 hrs to a week then recharge and then leave a week to get it close to 0-25ppm. Being a Discus man he thinks 50ppm is sky high LOL. Oddly enough he has just got his first pair of rays (light base pearls) so was able to give him some advice too.
 
Great find and trial. If it works then that'll be awesome.
 
In the short time I've used it I have seen results with it just sitting in my sump without forcing water through it. My system is also half the size of yours and using the same amount of this product. With your auto drip continually putting more nitrates in, the size of your system, and the amount of Szat clear water you are using, I suspect you may not see dramatic changes in nitrates or the product lasting too long before needing to be recharged.
 
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Thanks for the info. With my tap water at 25ppm I am hoping that I can get the tank down in to the 30's, I hadn't really thought about the drip adding to the problem but of course it does up to the 25ppm amount. I was hoping that using 2 of the largest would be up to the job. I will see how it goes.
 
Interested in the results of this.

Although devotedly discus sell a similar resin but it says it should not be placed in sump, but in the hma canisters before going into tank system?

Guessing this resin must work in different way?
 
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That's interesting as might suit my auto drip, I wouldn't want to be pulling the hma apart too often though, I change my hma c carts 1 per yr.

I was using a resin 20 yrs ago which was marketed under nitraghost and nitragon, that was packed in a 2 inch tube and could be used to fill the tank off the tap but we used a fluval 4 powerhead to push tank water through it, that would take a 200 gal tank down from 100ppm to 0 overnight but was a pain to keep recharging.
 
I have been looking at DEvotedly site and the resin certainly looks different. I like their spectrum vessels as I could rig up a system to tee off when being used or when being recharged without the need to touch the hma. It looks like the same regen that I used on the nitragon where you slowly drip brine out the end, the pain of this was having a rig in my garage to gravity feed salt solution with RO water so you then need to produce RO or lug it around. I still might do this though as with 100% nitrate free water going in you have half the battle won.

It suits a drip best as you cannot always fast flow through the resin to fill a tank quickly after a water change.
 
This morning I tested again following a recharge of the resin yesterday and I replaced it in a fast moving part of the sump on a weir. The test kit colouration is on the lighter side of the 50ppm range instead of the darker side so I would say I may have dropped 5ppm or more, I will continue to test and recharge through the next week and I suspect I will get in to the next colour phase.

I have noticed with resins before that the effluent from the recharge is a dark yellow and my first recharge did have yellow water on one bag, I can definately see an improvement in water clarity and it has gone from clear to "gin clear"

Next experiment will be to place a bag within an internal filter to force more water through the resin within the sump but that may not be needed.
 
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