underfloor heating question

underfloorheatingguy

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 15, 2008
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edmonton
Thats the best part about the combo tanks, the extreme simplicity. The tanks work the same as a normal hot water tank but have two outlets on the side, then you connect those outlets to an HPS control (http://www.hpscontrols.com/), then from your control to your tubing. as an electrician it is easy because all you need is 120 to the control and wire the aquastat to the control. Simple. I usually don't like these controls because they are expensive and I usually make bigger ones in my shop for half the cost. But for this system it is perfect. no air removal, no exp. tanks just simple to use basic underfloor heating. To be honest I have never used combi units, I think they are a waste of money. use that money for a boiler. a instant water heater has a very small heat exchanger, all it is is small copper tubing that gets heated by a flame. The problem is the flow rates, try using your underfloor while you fill your tub. you'll have warm water at best because it can't heat the water quick enough.
 

skynoch

Fire Eel
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Jan 14, 2007
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edmonton alberta canada
underfloorheatingguy;1607871; said:
Thats the best part about the combo tanks, the extreme simplicity. The tanks work the same as a normal hot water tank but have two outlets on the side, then you connect those outlets to an HPS control (http://www.hpscontrols.com/), then from your control to your tubing. as an electrician it is easy because all you need is 120 to the control and wire the aquastat to the control. Simple. I usually don't like these controls because they are expensive and I usually make bigger ones in my shop for half the cost. But for this system it is perfect. no air removal, no exp. tanks just simple to use basic underfloor heating. To be honest I have never used combi units, I think they are a waste of money. use that money for a boiler. a instant water heater has a very small heat exchanger, all it is is small copper tubing that gets heated by a flame. The problem is the flow rates, try using your underfloor while you fill your tub. you'll have warm water at best because it can't heat the water quick enough.
Thanks for the info. Do you have any recomendations for a combi unit? I definitely want a unit with stainless steel exchnger. With the flow switch in the main water line it will shut down the heating loop allowing all the heat for the house hot water. So with a combi unit the heating loop would need a pump and it would run from one outlet back to main water inlet and house water would run out the other outlet. The comi unit then controls the pump and the water temp if it's heating house water or floor loop.
 

underfloorheatingguy

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 15, 2008
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edmonton
the tank for sure, the instant water heaters need to be serviced and maintained and they are the same price as the polaris(The best hot water tank ever made in my opinion or maybe the cyclone). The tanks will have enough hot water for both the house and underfloor with no flow switches(which are a pain in the butt). I have done about 30 combo tank systems around beaumont in the last couple years, they work great for small applications.
http://www.hotwater.com/lit/brochures/CycloneXi.pdf
http://www.johnwoodwaterheaters.com/pdfs/RP133C.pdf
http://www.johnwoodwaterheaters.com/pdfs/GSW_SuperFlue_Wholesale_FINAL_PG202C_Oct0605.pdf

The last one is the most economical and it is a conventional vent as well. it's the one I usually install.
 

dmopar74

Peacock Bass
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Mar 24, 2006
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Tri cities washington
or you could just plumb in your own loop system hooked up to you existing hwt with a recirc pump plugged into a temperature controller. for like $300 im betting it would work just fine. add a check valve as well for another $15.
 

underfloorheatingguy

Feeder Fish
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Mar 15, 2008
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edmonton
I would not recommend that because now you need a mixing valve, expansion tank. plus those pumps are about $300-$500, we have strict codes here where we live especially for radiant heating. I would know, I've been doing this for years and now I have to go to school to get certified. the tank would be undersized for both applications almost certainly.
 

dmopar74

Peacock Bass
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Mar 24, 2006
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Tri cities washington
underfloorheatingguy;1608273; said:
I would not recommend that because now you need a mixing valve, expansion tank. plus those pumps are about $300-$500, we have strict codes here where we live especially for radiant heating. I would know, I've been doing this for years and now I have to go to school to get certified. the tank would be undersized for both applications almost certainly.
what would you need to have a mixing valve for, your simply running hot water through the pipes till the water in the fish tank reaches, say 80f, then the pump would shut off. its basically the same thing as your standard recirc line,which is installed into houses all the time to provide hot water at faucets without the wait,but intead of being tied into the faucets its running under your fish tank. most existing houses either have or should have an expansion tank already, and even then houses have been built for 100 years without em, and the hwt pop-off would also release excess pressure or extreme temperature. whereever you are buying your recirc pumps your gettin ripped off, their like $100(my price, but not to the public) at my plumbing suppy houses. i also know, im also a journeyman plumber with 9 years experience. considering this is what i would consider a DIY job to most aquariasts, plumbing codes wont apply unless someone tattles on em.
 
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