Uneven Floor
- Thread starter USMCSS
- Start date
Use composite shims. If you cant achieve perfect level (and yes it has to be level or else there will be too much pressure on one side and could lead to failure) you can use ceramic shims, they are thicker. But yes, level is very important. Also I think you should let the silicone cure a bit longer.
I've already drained the tank and tomorrow plan on heading to Lowes to see if they can cut some metal pieces (I don't have the tools to cut metal) and if not, I'll go with the composite.
How long were you thinking on the cure time? I've heard everything from 24 hours to 10 days but most people have said 72 should be plenty. I used Momentive RTV108 silicon adhesive which is safe for aquariums and has a 24 hour curing time. Plus wouldn't it be a little late to let it cure any longer since after 72 hours I filled it with water. The entire time it was curing up until this very moment I've kept the clamp on it as somewhat of a safety device.
You can see my 2 threads about the repair and resealing in the DYI forum.
Over time I would think k it will effect the stand and the tank alot. It is safest to empty and shim the tank
Hello; My take on tank level is that out of level front to back or side to side is not so bad. Out of level corner to corner is a concern, as it can twist tank.
I rarely have a level floor, so have to shim most tanks. I have used various types of shims and now only use metal shims.
Plastic has deformed over time. As i have not used all plastics there may be some that do not.
Wood can get wet and stay wet. Not so much an issue of deteoration with some hardwoods as damage to the floor. On a cement slab or tile floor might leave a discoloration.
I use metal stands if available. I do have one tank on a wood stand. With metal stands it is fairly straight foreward to shim the legs. On wood stands I like to shim in several places to spread the load.
As already posted by others, I like to level a tank when empty. The idea of hammering shims under a full tank does not appeal.
I also like to use the longest level around. On a big tank I would use my 4 foot level, but shorter levels will work. Use what you have.
A phone must have a short base. Guess I am not too suprised that there is an app for that. My phone will only make calls. I might get one of the new ones if they come up with a personality app.
You seem to be on the steep part of the learning curve. It gets better after a few decades.
Good luck
I rarely have a level floor, so have to shim most tanks. I have used various types of shims and now only use metal shims.
Plastic has deformed over time. As i have not used all plastics there may be some that do not.
Wood can get wet and stay wet. Not so much an issue of deteoration with some hardwoods as damage to the floor. On a cement slab or tile floor might leave a discoloration.
I use metal stands if available. I do have one tank on a wood stand. With metal stands it is fairly straight foreward to shim the legs. On wood stands I like to shim in several places to spread the load.
As already posted by others, I like to level a tank when empty. The idea of hammering shims under a full tank does not appeal.
I also like to use the longest level around. On a big tank I would use my 4 foot level, but shorter levels will work. Use what you have.
A phone must have a short base. Guess I am not too suprised that there is an app for that. My phone will only make calls. I might get one of the new ones if they come up with a personality app.
You seem to be on the steep part of the learning curve. It gets better after a few decades.
Good luck
Well I'll actually only be in this apartment for 8 more months then be moving into a house. Hopefully it won't do to much damage in that amount of time.
Hello; I agree with this. Small tanks can be out of level with hardly any issues. I like tanks of 55 or more gallons to be as level as I can make them.
I saw your post about getting metal shims. Keep in mind that iron and regular steel will rust and leave a stain. They can be painted or a thin sheet of something between the shim and the floor. I like aluminum but iron is cheaper. On my metal stand legs I use empty aluminum cat food cans with steel washers inside. The cans also let me know when I have a slow leak and can delay the tear down for a fix. If a can begins to collect water I stick a cloth in and tie it to the leg. Often the water will evaporate before getting onto the floor.
I'm 40 years old and have kept many tanks over the years all the way up to 600 gallons. Other than some very small tanks, I'm just getting back into the hobby with the bigger tanks after a 10 year break. Out of the many tanks I've kept I've ran into many problems but the problems with this one tank in particular are the first I've encountered.
As far as the phone app goes, once I downloaded it and used it, I figured out how inaccurate it was. I think the most accurate method is to drain the tank down to where there is just enough water in it to take a tape measure and measure the water level in each corner from the outside. That way you can see to the millimeter how uneven it is in each corner and adjust for it. The stand is wood and is flat all the way around meaning there are no legs under it so when I go to level it I'll have to do so in each place it's unlevel and not just adjust the level of each foot of the stand.
S
skjl47
, I saw your suggestion using the cat food cans but that wouldn't work for this stand plus I just don't think that'd look very appealing anyways. lol
