Thanks for those links, I read through them. Seems that flow rate is the biggest issue, not to exceed the often high claimed figs and slower the better.
Most UV manufacturers make exaggerated claims about their UV units, so they don;t really tell you the correct flow rate or what they expect to be treated at their rate of flow,which is derived from knowing your UV size , your specific tank size, pipe diameters and the pathogens you want to zap.
An 'on-off' cycle can be part of the equation for using a UV sterilizer for maximum efficiency. You actually DON'T have to have it on 24/7, 3 times per day with correct installations, long enough for the required # of turnover is sufficient , which also extends bulb life and reduces power costs, tho it is OK, and perhaps simpler to have it on 24/7 this can be less effective.
here's another link derived partly from the book I mentioned
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articles/articles/44/1/Introduction-to-UV-sterilizers/Page1.html
OHHHHH SaaaaaaNaaaaaap!!!did you even bother to read any of the links T1?
no? thought not!
you too often seem more concerned with having an argument than you do with being correct in your facts.
In this case you are not arguing with me, but against basic physics. I am just telling you what the physics says, you are just spouting your ill-informed opinion without any supporting data. why is this not a surprise?
if you had read as much about my problem with gill worm as you say you would have found gill worm is something that hides in rays and comes out in times of stress after living in one tank all the p14 lives i think a move to a new tank was plenty to stress them dont you
as if you read as much about me as you say you would see it was only the p14 that were afected no other fish and that was well ove 15 months ago so for you to remember that i happy to see you read all of my theads and have learned something from them![]()