Vermiponics - Fish, Plants, and Worms

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I did a bit of quick research on root zone temps for plants just now. The optimum range for most plants is 68-72, a good safe range has been shown to be 65-75. Temperatures above 80 result in noticeable things such as wilting, flower drop, and fruit damage. While salt causes minor damage at low concentrations I think it is a safer alternative to high temperatures. I appreciate the suggestion however and it's good to get this information out there for others to see.

Understood, good to know.
 
The reason i use a bell siphon is for the ebb and flow / fill and drain effect on the grow bed. Some people use constant flow, and other run their pumps on timers with slow gravity drains and overflows. the bell siphon is the safest and easiest way IMO to get the ebb and flow that I want.
Haha ok I know it is for ebb and flow (flood & drain) but what technical/practical purpose does it serve?, or is it just for ornamental value?
 
Haha ok I know it is for ebb and flow (flood & drain) but what technical/practical purpose does it serve?, or is it just for ornamental value?
It serves to allow the grow bed bacteria to get oxygen as well as the roots. Academic studies and vast, collective experience have shown that this optimizes the water and fertilizer the plants need. Remember, we aren't using any other filtration of any kind so we have to establish a solid bio filter.
 
Understood, good to know.

Temps in the mid 80's are apparently ok in AP where as they are NOT in hydroponics. I kept researching and found out why... in HP the temps are kept below 70 to discourage disease and fungal growth. I don't think 90 degrees is good for the plants but I doubt it will kill them. I've put a question in to other AP'ers to find out what they think on the issue.
 
It serves to allow the grow bed bacteria to get oxygen as well as the roots. Academic studies and vast, collective experience have shown that this optimizes the water and fertilizer the plants need. Remember, we aren't using any other filtration of any kind so we have to establish a solid bio filter.
Ok, thanx buddy. I've heard alot about how to build them and all in aquaponics setups, butt never heard anybody say what's their purpose. So how long wet and how long dry and how many inch/mm should the drop be?
 
This is very interesting. I have thought about doing a small grow bed hooked my 55 gallon just for fun, but i dont want the discolored water, and i also wouldnt want to have it above the tank so i've always shyed away from the idea, but it would be cool if i could remedy those two issues lol.
I also have a question, since alot of fish treatments are not intended for human consumption (for example most tap water conditioners say they are not for human consmption) wouldnt just dechlorinating your water for your fish render your crop non edible? Im sure im overlooking something incredibly obvious here, but i had to ask lol.
 
Ok, thanx buddy. I've heard alot about how to build them and all in aquaponics setups, butt never heard anybody say what's their purpose. So how long wet and how long dry and how many inch/mm should the drop be?

Most people run 12 to 15 minute cycles. So, say 12 minute or 15 minute to fill, then however long it takes to drain.
 
This is very interesting. I have thought about doing a small grow bed hooked my 55 gallon just for fun, but i dont want the discolored water, and i also wouldnt want to have it above the tank so i've always shyed away from the idea, but it would be cool if i could remedy those two issues lol.
I also have a question, since alot of fish treatments are not intended for human consumption (for example most tap water conditioners say they are not for human consmption) wouldnt just dechlorinating your water for your fish render your crop non edible? Im sure im overlooking something incredibly obvious here, but i had to ask lol.

It's actually a very good question and one that is often discussed by Ap'ers. In the case of chlorine, exposure to sunlight and bubbling or circulating for about 24 hours generally works perfectly fine. If you happen to be one of those who has water treated with chloramines there are a few options: age the water with activated carbon as it helps to break the chlorine ammonia bond, or you can use ClorAm-X though there is much debate over Sodium Thiosulfite and its derivative compounds. Personally I would use natural methods. Also, the water you will be adding to your tank is generally top off water rather than doing water changes so the volume of water you must age is much less than if you were to be doing water changes.
 
Fair enough. I think ill have to pass on doing this for now since i have no ambition to drian my 55 gallon and re fill it with chemical free water lol. It is an awesme concept i would like to try at some point when i have more space though.
 
My test setup is still up and running well. I will be adding more fish to increase the bio load here soon.. I'm running a shop light with 5600k bulbs above my grow beds for 12 hour cycles.. makes a huge difference in growth rates vs the light from the north facing window. I can only imagine how well this might work with southern exposure and window boxes (during the winter anyway).. will continue to update as things change or evolve.
 
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