Vermiponics - Fish, Plants, and Worms

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Ok, I have a question pertaining to PH and mineral content. Why not use crushed coral or other such mineral rich PH up buffering substrate in the grow box? Wouldn't that solve allot of problems? Maybe I'm over stating its effectiveness I'm not really sure as my water is already over 8 out of the tap, lol.
 
So hows this sound?
Stand Pipe 1.5" from top
2" stand pipe reduced to 1"
3" bell siphon with cap and drilled with some small tubing
4" media guard
 
Ok, I have a question pertaining to PH and mineral content. Why not use crushed coral or other such mineral rich PH up buffering substrate in the grow box? Wouldn't that solve allot of problems? Maybe I'm over stating its effectiveness I'm not really sure as my water is already over 8 out of the tap, lol.

I think the need for buffing ph would only have to do with the requirements of the fish your planing to keep? Correct me if I'm wrong Rivermud.
 
Ok, I have a question pertaining to PH and mineral content. Why not use crushed coral or other such mineral rich PH up buffering substrate in the grow box? Wouldn't that solve allot of problems? Maybe I'm over stating its effectiveness I'm not really sure as my water is already over 8 out of the tap, lol.

These systems are mainly in use as true AP systems. Very little has been done with in home aquariums. As such, they don't tend to worry about low PH, they encourage it because it helps with plant growth and doesn't harm the types of fish they raise. You can buffer the system, it just hasn't been something they've invested in. I personally wouldn't mess with it too much unless I knew it was hurting my fish, then I'd try to buffer it just enough to keep the fish healthy and not harm the system overall.
 
So hows this sound?
Stand Pipe 1.5" from top
2" stand pipe reduced to 1"
3" bell siphon with cap and drilled with some small tubing
4" media guard

Sounds about right, you might want to use a slightly large media guard for pure water flow purposes. I would suggest a 5 inch for good measure. Otherwise, it sound like you are on the right track.
 
can you detail your geyser I have no idea what that is.
The geyser lift is a modified air lift system that use two bells that get air introduced to them, the outer bell gets filled first which then "bubbles" over to the inner bell. When the inner bell gets to it's fullest point it escape up the airlift tube which is full of tank water. This large bubble pushes a decent volume of water ahead of it and escapes when the lift terminates in the grow bed. The out put is angles otherwise you shoot your ceiling with water if you have an efficient enough pump. the biggest issue with the lift is providing ENOUGH air to push a large enough volume of water to make it work for our purposes.

The reason for the bells is to build up a large air mass, when the air builds up it actually releases a larger bubble than if you were to use an air stone. the large bubble is need to push water longer distances. Regular airlifts only lift water a few inches before releasing into the atmosphere. The larger bell feeds the smaller bell until it's full thus when a large bubble releases it immediately releases into the lift tube moving a large mass of water.
 
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